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Drive the 197 and see if you like it. Has good points and bad IMO. Loads of grip, great composure but lacks steering feel and fun. Like you found with the 225, I found it boring.

Working by hand or machine? Would try and get a good sealant in there which does not really work in the Megs 80/7 process If by hand - I would get Autoglym Super Resin and Extra Gloss and then top with P21s myself. not a fan of the XXX. By machine prefer other polishes over Megs 80. Either...

I Just go over then with AG SRP when I do the paintwork here.

Royal Mail where slow then, normally turns up the next day

I would just hold fire on the Nattys until the next time you wash the car then.

EGP wont bond after anything much other than SRP properly. There are a few products that it will also work over. Polish - Sealant - Wax (Optional step mainly for looks)

Argh the goood old KTEC cheese grater, thank you no!

Right - the fixed backing plate seems a issue still though?

AG SRP then the EGP straight away after, leave that on the paint 45-60 mins + dependingh on the weather. Ideally you should then leave the car 24 hours before adding further layers of EGP or applying the wax. I think AG have started putting this onlater bottles now. It allows the product to set...

Greenlight seemed great price wise when I was 21/22 trying to insure hot hatches, don't get close to other quotes now I am pushing on 30 lol

T Cut is more abbrassive than Megs Scratch X. Sounds like they need wet sanding then.

Depending on how deep they are a machine polish and maybe wet sanding will be needed. Can you catch a finger nail in them?

It is nice to have waterproof connection for after washing whern there maybe water about. Is that XC 3401 VRG Random Orbital in motion Tim?

Straightlines back and forth will also work fine. Just make sure you work the polish so it breaks down, In the case of the SSR range it will clear and almost start to dust.

LOL was thinking the same!

Poorboys DMTS - http://www.seriousperformance.co.uk/Products,81,toView_45.html

I only have a couple of LC pads - light cut and finishing so can't do a proper comparison, both work well. The SFX foam is a little denser.

LOL - yeap. The Dartford Crossing will be the least of your worries.

On Watchdog they have shown both the MK2 Phase 1 and MK2 Phase 2 catches. This is the one on your car. From what I can gather on here the spring under the plastic pull needs to be lubed up.

I would always use a pad for only one product. If you have used say 83 on it, I would get another pad for the 80. Dont re-use the same one. This is why I always advise people to get at least two of each pad. That said say you where using SSR 2 on a pad, it was not working, I have used SSR 2.5...

You can do the SSR 1 after if you want or just go straight to the SRP. If you work the SSR 2.5 correctly even on dark colours it will finish down really well.

Autoglym Super Resin on a White or Blue pad, followed by EGP by hand.

Depends on paint type/condition, I always use a polsihing pad first and then step up to the light cut if need be.

Yellow or White SFX pad for the SSR 2.5 Blue SFX for NXT http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/shop/polishing/sonus-sfx-foam-pads/c_13.html NXT and EGP dont work together by the way best of choosing on or another.

Pah... red though ;)

Std 197 Chassis is very good anyway, overlight steering is not - bet that won't changed anyway, so no worries. Enjoy the new car when you get it.

Not sure why anyone would choose a 182 Cup over FF, as you say the 172 Cup was different enough to warrent it. The 182 varient I see no reason. Not everyone on here wants a Trophy Steve!

Ran the update on my MacBook Pro last night all seems fine.

Mac at work Mac at home Oh I do need a PC to update my Road Angel though, best install boot camp then ;)

Nice one Daz, will come in handy when I purchase my own Mac Pro when they get round to updating them. Though may grab some for my MacBook Pro in the meantime aswell.