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Is it a cup a normal 182 or a 182 FF ??? That will tell you if its expensive or not.
Cambelt/Aux done? Expensive job. Should be done at 72K or 5 years (which ever first)
Lol no idea, we didn't buy a calender. But if its a racing blue one its ours.
http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=364943
Well if you planning on buying a second car, i wouldn't be spending any cash making your 182 faster. How ever if your just casual about track days just track...
I would say its more a focussed track mod. Like anything you will never see the full benefit of it on the road. and it is alot of cash.
Do you track your car at all then ?
Not driven a supercharged clio, but our quaife LSD made a whole load of difference to our ITBd car. You can drive the car in a completely different manor its brilliant. My favourite mod we have done to our car.
All depends how wild you go on the cams and what cams you go for.
Probably get somewhere about the 190/195 Figure.
Dont know why you want to keep it "standard" looking, with the money you are planning on spending id be seriously condidering a ITB kit.
On another note LSD is a great mod...
Lol no, the OEM rear shocks are well know for being bad.
Do you not think they developed the 172 suspension. Seems like alot of work for little gains.
As said Spotlines/prolines are decent with some up uprated shocks.
The spray is just a cleaner, because normally you throw the paper filter in the bin and replace it. With the foam ones you clean them instead or replacing them.
Do some reading there a sticky where fastcar did some testing on fliters.
this...
Spray the badge the base color, lets say blue.
Let it dry.
Apply liquid mask, brush it over the whole badge. Let it air dry (or hairdryer if you in a rush) Do a couple of coats to make sure you have covered the whole badge.
Take stanley knife, carefully trim out lettering.
Now spray the...
No, and be careful which one you choose do some reading because not all give gains. some actually reduce performance
as for car companies not using them, they are more expensive to to develop/manufacture for little / no gain. Airbox and OEM filter work perfectly well.
About that.
But its getting from the 215/220 to the 240 mark that is even more expensive :( But im sure it will be worth it once our engine is complete.
I do it on probably the cheapest set up on the forum :(
350D, and the Sigma 70-300mm (non Apo) need new stuff when i graduate.
Plenty on here http://www.flickr.com/photos/30233693@N08/sets/
I think you are saying with head work and cams its possible to see 240BHP out of ITBs?
You will see about 215/220 with cams and some head work, to get anywhere near 240 with ITB you have to go fully forged ect.
We are currently building a 240bhp (hopefully) ITBd engine and it costs alot of...