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Easy to do...even easier if you had a torsion bar like a clio...but easy.
You'll probably be about 25quid in tools doing it yourself but well worth it...paying to have it lowered is a waste of money and doing it yourself you'll know its right.
Doubt it'd be noticebaly much more harsh than the 45's already on...I'd be more concerned about it looking shite TBH as 172 have tons of arch clearance as is!
Easy enough.
Just engine (inc exhaust manifold), box, ecu, loom, 16v mounts, 16v shafts, dash with rev counter/speedo that'll keep up and suitable suspension (either uprated 1.2 gear or 16v shocks/springs and hub carriers)...oh and fit an anti roll bar as hers will be missing one.
Plug and...
I want to increase the pressure in my fuel rail and i've found a replacement FPR that runs at 4bar - can someone tell me if the fuel rail be able to handle this (mines a plastic item)?
Also does anyone have access to a VW parts system? I need to see what car a particular part belongs to given...
It depends really.
On a mk1 non-16v, -35mm springs and standard shocks will last as long as OE springs...lower than that and yes, the standard shocks will go. With 16v shocks you can fit any spring and they'll be fine...
Yes, 2 springs at front and torsion bar at the rear...theres a guide somewhere on here on how to adjust it.
Problems after 12 months - why do you say that? There shouldn't be...
I'd say it the IK.
Alternatively, the tape that gets wrapped around the plastic wire tubing sometimes solidies over time and makes that noise when disturbed (like reving/airflow)...i've had that before.
Away to lower my clio (again) this weekend and i'll need to build up a torsion bar extractor using a nut/bolt/socket.
Can anyone remember what size of bolt i need to screw into the torsion bar) as i've forgotten from last time?
ta.
Had it been a 1.4 or phase 1/2 1.2 i'd have said avoid as it defo looses power. However on your engine things are different.
You won't get any loss on your engine as theres loads of space round the engine for hot air to escape too...the IK also sits off to the side of the engine not directly...
Is the cambelt due?
I'd just run it tbh - if it goes bang a new engine is only 150quid max and fitting a couple of hundred. I'll also have a spare cylinder head with cam available in the next few weeks if worst comes to the worst...
Thats the 1.4/1.2 energy engine IK...you'll be able to and it'll be 90% the cost of the entire kit. Why bother tho - theres heaps on ebay that are cheap...get one of those and a cleaning kit for a tenner...
I answered most of this in your other thread mate.
No point doing cam and 1.8 TB without headwork as the greatest gain will come from the headwork and since the head needs to come off anyway to fit a cam, you may as well do everything in one go. As i said, speak to Chris H as he won't charge...