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The conversion kit is £2500. Not sure tbh From throwing the engine around its lighter probably as the block is alloy block, but the box being 6 speed is defo heavier.

Yeah it’s mega close. Even changing the alternator belt will be a challenge. Don’t think the engine will come out the top either. Need to fettle the chassis leg a tad more for the gearbox mount.

🤔 Needs to move to the left abit.

Started on the engine loom but it’s much better protected than the Clios original loom 😂 Thought I’d go for Ktecs red race mount and see what these are like. The gearbox mount is for sale as don’t need that if anyone’s interested

So the conversion kit Engine mouts Chassis leg plate Driveshafts Filler neck and hoses Rad and fan which will be 99% for sale soon Exhaust manifold and down pipe Will be inspecting it all soon.

Haha a lot have said this 😂 I will but after it’s been in and out 10 times for cutting and welding the chassis leg😂

I’m not sure what brand the manifold is but it feels pretty cheap tbf but it’s been modified with a vband clamp. I’ll use it to get the engine in and running and then look into others after

This one Not 100% as I want a ram horn style manifold like the PMS one I had. How come

They look good too. You make them? Pm me with prices of what your thinking

Picked up the conversion kit today 👌🏻 Time you get busy.

@EVO 4LEX where do I send my money? I seriously want one please.

Gotta love taking the piss 😂😂😂

Smart solution that for race series that require them.

Engine and box now ready to drop in Brake hoses are made and fitted, steering rack will be in soon also Wiring is next on the list. And I need someone to buy my bike to fund more shiny parts for the Clio type r please

Thanks mate. Running Puremotorsport billet stub axle kit/twingo disc setup with puremotorsport 10mm stub axle spacer and 7x15 et35 wheels with 205 595RSR tyres

Will have a standard tow eye. Picture below of mine 172. I’ve painted mine red to be visible

Started a Kswap 👌🏻

Wheels, tyres and plate diff sorted 👌🏻

I cut the fog light mouldings out and just had holes. Never had the brake over heat or fade.

A lot of work and money 😂 Engine and box alone are 1500ish. The kit to mount the engine I’ve purchased (haven’t received it yet) which is the same as the YT video above, is 2500 and that doesn’t include wiring etc. Chassis leg needs cutting/welding etc. Then service, maintenance parts and...

Yeah 😂 had one spare.

Thrown the engine together yesterday and dropped the gearbox off to Area Motorsport for an Mfactory plate diff.

Think it’s all @RuskiWeldShit fault from his YouTube video 😂

And me. Soon as I sure the kit I purchased it and asked Nick about wheel fitment after they were delivered 🤦🏻‍♂️ They’d clear most 15s I reckon if the rotor was 295mm like my old Wilwood setup as the wheel went on fine and spun but scratched the wheel.

My 1.2s I tried in the pic above have 20mm spacers on and don’t clear It’s more the barrel of the wheel than the spokes

It’s PMS. Just the original design.

Yeah TD 1.2s don’t clear either.

Is it just the Braids that clear?

Yeah please be good to see. I was thinking about going that route until this kit popped up. Fingers crossed, if you send Nick a wheel he’ll trail fit it over the brakes before you buy

Thanks bud. I was going full custom loom with DTA ecu on the ITB engine but not really sure on this yet. The Honda KproV4 seems an incredibly easy option with it fitting the OE loom etc and seems a really good piece of kit. Once the engine is in I’ll look more in to that.