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yeh no worries i mean people can give advice or recommend what to do to fix it, but at the end of the day you cant beat a good garage having a look, and because there are so many factors contributing to idle speed you could end up replacing all sorts before you figure out what was causing it...

i think best bet is to take it to a reputable garage and have them look at it getting someone to diagnose a problem over the internet is less than ideal, it could be any number of things dont take that the wrong way but 34 views and no replies indicates that it is not a common problem and...

theres your answer ;) got any pics of the 2, i would look on tinternet but im too lazy :rolleyes:

:rolleyes:

lmao special edition, whats so special about it? any numpty can stick a plaque like that on and claim its a special edition *yawn*

exactly what i was going to ask my guess is trecento 300mm? but thats a stab in the dark

i thought the cup didnt have an actuating arm fitted as standard and that this valve was set to a pre-determined value at the factory? also the cup shouldnt fail because the arm is not present? got a print off from a mot guidline site sat here next to me as we have made that mistake before at...

right as far as i am aware rusty arches cant contribute to an mot fail? is that right? also how bad does the sill have to be to make it a fail? the lip (where jacking points are) on mine is fairly bad in one or two places, but it hasnt spread to the sill 'body' if you get what i mean? anyone...

this may be way off but from what i understand.... original flexi hoses are quite pliable and when brake fluid pressure/heat builds up (ie when you are hard on the brakes) it stretches ever so slightly reducing the efficiency of the brakes braided brake hoses reduce this and therefore...

sounds expensive fred :S im just trying to weigh up whether it is gonna be better for me to get one made from scratch, buy one 'off the shelf' and have bars added, or buy one off the shelf and leave it be im off to see the enginnering guys now (if they are in) and see what they say

im off to see an engineering place today (handy as they work in the unit next door) about making me a roll cage is there anything particular that needs to be done to make a roll cage safe/strong. i was basically going to take a pic of a cage in that fits the clio and ask them to make something...

i cant help but giggle at all the stuff sliding around as you go round each corner lol whatever it was it aint strapped down lmao

no i think he means different connector plugs on the cps? surely if its just building up in rail its the signal to the injectors? or did you already look into that?

am i right in thinking the 172's had a problem with release bearing failing (normally somewhere around the 60k mark?) im sure i have read it on here a few times only reason i ask is that i ordered a clutch fork and release bearing (come as a kit) from renault and when it arrived at the main...

god the clio g/box has problems with just general driving! never mind with anything as harsh as that lmao

yeh i heel toe all the time in the 106, the pedals in that are really close together so make it easier not sure what they are going to be like in the valver done the odd bit of left foot braking but still need to get my left foot accustomed to being a bit more gentle lol

anyone else got any more vids like this? http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=uKQH3EUz2sI bit of heel-toeing on this but love the noise of the v8 :clap: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=qdWSyrqEnE4

i think what he is saying that he put a T piece from the FPR and measured the pressure (using the foot pump gauge) that way to set it right, as he says maybe not totally accurate but should be ok to get it running? it can then be altered when driven as it should become apparent if it is...

ive heard of people blocking the pipe using a ball bearing?!?! dont know how much pressure they create so not sure if thats a good idea or not :S

good read :D i thought you would have got the manifold coated at somewhere like cam-coat as you like spending money on top quality stuff :p think there site has proven results over wrapping, especially when you are pumping all that power, that thing is going to get mighty HOT!

i toyed with the idea of tuning the 106, but decided against it for a couple of reasons, the main one being cost, i can (hopefully) do all the work on the clio myself, whereas anything as severe as a z cars conversion is not something i would want to try! my 106 is my daily driver and couldnt...

think it was saturday early afternoon you pulled out of the road that leads to the hospital going towards wetherby, then you turned off towards the showground/sainsburys (surely you werent parking the vee in sainsburys car park :eek: :) )

i thought i was going a bit mad spending a fair few quid on gathering bits for the valver but good god you are ruthless! are you bumming the bank manager or summat? :rasp:

plastics4performance? was some rear ones on ebay not so long back *nick you must of been typing at the exact same time as me lol*

:lolup: exactly what i was gonna say :clap:

you got mail ;) *edit* you would have if you cleared your pm box! lol

i saw a post by someone at ktec a while back that said they had bought the remaining stock of b&m short shifts as they have gone out of production they then said they were getting an engineering firm to make something similar to the b&m design so that they could keep selling and stocking them...

i think ive got it the wrong way round!! would it not be shorten the upper half, lengthen the lower half (under the car) that way a smaller movement above the pivot point would create a larger movement under the car? wonder how much it would need altering to reduce the throw to that of a B&M?

is this something to do with them making their own? read that somewhere

surely that would just cancel out any alterations? making both ends above and below the pivot the same length?