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yeah but... I'm having solid mounts and the knock appears some times, and only when the car is cold (first drive off in the morning). so what's to blame now? drive shaft seems ok (the other one is new actually) and it's not really a knock, I mean you barely could hear it, it's more like running...

they will fit all the 172 range and 182's except 182 cups, 182 ff's and trophy's

by how much the length should be increased? was thinking of elongating the mount holes of the lower ball joint by a few mm, to reposition the hub further to the exterior and creating space for the drive shaft instead of shortening it. does this sound right? this also will give a bit of camber...

thx! ;)

^same here :D

you will need to take off the scuttle panel, after the wipers. a flat screwdriver will do to gently remove the plastic crews holding it

for anyone having this take a look here before buying new pumps or anything: http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?496162-Windscreen-and-headlight-washer-jets-fix-guide&highlight=

A, same as mine. so I guess there are no B codes then.. :S

read somewhere that the "A" in the "ACH- NRTW" seen in the pic refers to the suspension type of the vehicle, A being normal and B- cup suspension. as you can see mine is "A" although I'm having the cup pack (60 mm between bolt holes, grey wheels, spoiler, splitter, they weren't fitted after...

removing the caliper is easy, you should figure it out. and yes I would do the job myself than paying someone for a simple task. pads need to be filed at the ends. the shims are some 0,5 mm thick metal plates that are positioned in the area where you will need to file the pads. general opinion...

had the cable checked a while ago and it's fine. pedal sits clearly lower than it should

Had a chat today with a guy who used to race a 172 and knows these cars, then went at his garage and after he took some measurements the conclusion was that my clutch pedal sits about 2-2,5 cm lower (another lad had his 172 nearby to compare). it looks like the whole pedal assembly sits lower...

fred only sells 565H IIRC. these are the ones to have (need to be filed though a bit)

just get a milltek(or other) sports cat and then fit a yozza. will be expensive though, have you thought about a de-cat? or a silenced de-cat?

metal work+ spherical ball bearing and no play in the joint= worth the money for me

this looks like a good theory, thx! ;) yes it does get some once in a while, b road blasts as unfortunately we don't have a real track :(

any way of making sure the lambda sensors are operating properly? heard that they don't give errors in the diagnosis every time.

I think performance pads and even OE ones give better performance after doing this. I also trust what these guys say: http://www.essexparts.com/learning-center/cat/brake-pads/post/Bed-in If done correctly you definitely get more performance p.s: the mechanic who did the bleed was in a hurry...

so, here's how it went: had the fluid changed at renault, and it was some dot 4.1 stuff, odd thing it only took about 500ml of fluid (k-tec said it takes at least 1 liter to do it properly) the discs: they were properly cleaned and the areas exposed painted with thermo black paint (I'm the kind...

had about a month ago the emissions light on for a day, then went off on it's own. can a faulty lambda sensor cause some ecu problems and as a result some oil consumption?

:bump:

I would've waited a bit and gone for some solid mounts. miles better than std ones. 84 euro's is a good price though

maybe michelin had come up with a pretty soft compound which also has a good wear rate. I'm pretty sure there are tyres with lower tread wear values and less grip. that's why the michelins cost half the value of a car lol :D

only the ph1 172 has the inline mount

320 is MEGA! if they really hold up that long they must be one of the best if not the best all rounder out there

"Just curious!" +1

can you identify the same rattle while on full lock?

if you're willing to spend an extra 100, you could go for the GAZ coilies (fixed damping), although some lads had reliability issues with them. The k-tec and V-maxx ones are a good value for the money and probably your best bet considering the budget. had to mention the GAZ option too, as it's...

^they are available for clio sizes, some members here are running them. tread wear rate is higher than 240? (PE2)

and how did you get rid of the problem? filing down isn't always necessary, some said they didn't had to do it.