Search results

Yeah but that was happening anyway, all the RS models bar the Megane have been discontinued and I can’t see the Megane sticking around much longer either. Renault basically seem to be doing a Peugeot atm.

Find where the waters got in basically.

Great work! Planning on sticking mine on a jig in a few weeks too how have you connected it to the rear out of interest? Did you also find much corrosion underneath the seam sealer at all?

After an air compressor to power die grinders, spraying equipment and a blasting cabinet. I figure I need something with a 14cfm rating to cover all the bases, been looking at the Clarke raider and boxer series. Would anyone recommend anything else (£500 max)

Sounds like the mechanics fucked it then it’s only a thin piece of pipe.

How bizarre have you had the alternator replaced recently or anything?

Take the undertray off and see if you can get it out of gear by wiggling the selector about.

Before you start changing any parts try jumping it with the negative on the engine block this should rule out a bad earth.

Did you connect the negative to the engine block or the negative on the battery? Immobiliser lights not on or anything?

Will it jump start?

Will it jump start? If not then you’ve got a starter motor issue.

Engine ready to come out.

Danger Danger high voltage :ROFLMAO:

No sorry. I wouldn’t worry if your profiles correct your going to be well into your 70s by the time it’s a problem. :ROFLMAO:

Yeah your supposed to cover machined surfaces in grease first. Tbf the hubs don’t really need rust treatment there’s plenty of “spare” material on cast items so grinding/blasting is usually more appropriate.

Prices as of a few days ago was £300 for 182 cat, £450 for a 172 square.

Hmm does sound like the battery hasn’t got enough amperage to crank but unless you can get it to crank you won’t be able to test it. Do you have a spare battery you can borrow? Initially I was going to suggest a bad earth so you could check out the earth strap to the gearbox but the jump pack...

When you jump it are you connecting to both terminals or are you putting the negative on the engine block?

Renault’s got its 5 billion bail out as long as it agrees to produce batteries with the Germans.

The glass is worse not sure it’s possible to polish it out either. Hopefully auto glass still does rear mk2 windows.

Rear stripped. Spots of rust just starting behind both door cards and along the rear arches. Going to tackle the hidden stuff myself and leave the rest of the arch primed for the body shop. No idea what the previous owner used to clean the rear light and the rear window it’s like a cats...

Check the Knock sensor, Injectors and crank sensor.

I’d start by checking the injectors.

Maybe chuck some pictures up, I assume if it’s high up it’s probably coming from the breather tube. How much oil did you put in it?

Won’t happen the French govt owns 15% of the company so it’s almost guaranteed to be saved.

I’ve got no idea why the struts are so bad, the wishbones and the rear beam are the same. Thankfully the shell seems to be ok so far.

Stripping down continued. Dust and rust all over the place but managed to get all the liners out without wrecking the mounting points. Organised all the screws in bags so I know where they came from. This might explain the engine noise.

Plan going forward is once all the heavy stuffs out is to stick it on a jig so I can tackle the rusty bits underneath. For the sake of a few £100s it seems worth it not to have to crawl around under there with a flap wheel. Engine runs but somethings knackered probably the water pump so I’m in...

Starting to make some slow progress on this. Bent one of the sills back into a usable form for now. Then got the car up on some breezeblocks/timber so I can start stripping out the engine and various bits Cut the good stuff off so the pikeys don’t rock up and cut it off.