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the input shaft on the jc5 box doesnt have a spigot end so no need for a bearing, it's just a piece of pressed tin, chuck it

Suffolk Punch was a 4 stroke

twin exhaust

probably the same reason as me, whats the point of kicking the s**t out of it with road salt if you have several other cars that you don't plan on keeping long enough to rot on you.

Right thats the Last time I lend you them.

I race in my Nomex Speedo's to compensate

I remove the rubber strip across the bulkhead at the rear of the bonnet on hot days but this time of year you'll be fine

If you want an investment buy solid early mk1 mx5s, I think trophys have peaked and will stay around the same level now.

yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy:smile: and a moderating MOFO to boot well done matey

@NorthloopCup

You can also get different final drive ratios for the gripper which is what convinced me

i think they're all dead by now matey

GG are back @ £73------------- https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/toyo/proxes-r888r/195-50-r15-82v-377051 no compound listed @ £75-----https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/car-tyres/toyo/proxes-r888r/195-50-r15-82v-364102

54mm

wiring scares the poo out of me, sorry for using all you good used gearbox bits, it's I'm just such a tight b*****d, Oh and when you drain the mt90 oil out of your box could you put it in a milk carton for me, Ta!

£600-£800 I will be doing it myself

At Harewood Hill ad08's are 0.5 faster than PS3's in the dry, but in the wet PS3's have 2 seconds on the yoko's

Just annoying when you have gone to the effort of doing it properly and it still won't work, The advantage of adding a bias valve for a track car is that you can give the rear more pressure in the wet as there's less weight transfer under braking, think of it as just upgrading early and it won't...

Ii's a diagonal split system so, Right Front-Left Rear on the front master cylinder ports and Left Front-Right Rear on the Rear master cylinder ports, or the other way around, it won't effect fluid pressure to the rear so don't worry about that, Take it to an Mot test station and ask for a brake...

that's right, is the piston in the compensator that the the arm acts on moving in and out (not seized) when the footbrake is applied?

@Mash. take a picture of the compensator valve, my guess is you have the in and out pipes the wrong way round.

Don't discount a dodgy fluid level sensor itself

saxo's and ax gt's, ahh good times

best £195 I've ever spent

It will be one the nicest vehicles in Bradford.

Earth from body to engine knackered at a guess, Try putting a jump lead from the battery negative terminal to the lifting eye on the cylinder head while someone turns the key

Chris Tarrant has put some weight on!

I would think the split service would be front left, rear right on the front ports and front right, left rear on the rear ports, As the Clio has such low rear brake effort it would not create enough emergency braking in the event of a component failure in the rear split circuit if a simple front...

bloody auto correct, Rear ARB http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-clio-sport-172-182-/221904298172?hash=item33aa86e0bc

I've just read the lot, Great spec, you've done that car proud, well done,