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Yes pretty much mate, and yes they will.

I can't say for definite that the dowel key hole is there or not, but I'd imagine you could potentially use one of the holes that's in the end of the cam for the oil feed to the dephaser. If push comes to shove, you just mark it up where it needs to be and take it to a machine shop for the dowel...

If you put a exhaust cam stud in the end of the inlet cam, you'll do away with the vvt as it'll block the oil flow off to the dephaser. That's all assuming that it's the same thread of course.

Well that can only bode well for mine then! Ha ha!

Good torque figure that dan! No wonder it goes well! Excellent work!

I've got the wrong hole before. She was not happy. Lol

Okey dokey! Thanks for the reply mate. I'm not sure blyton appeals to me, but I'd hazard a guess that a lot of it will come down to costs as well as availability. If it is at blyton, I'll definitely give it some real consideration for 2016 though. :up:

No mate that was already there when I bought it.

Yeah the perforated pipe allows the sound waves in the exhaust to pass through, where it then gets absorbed in the matting. This has the matting in the box to absorb the sound waves but it's more performance biased.

It's just a resonator pipe mate. To give the exhaust system a bit more noise and make it more performance biased there's no perforated tube in the middle box. It looks to solely rely on the small pipe transferring some of the noise. It's also reduced the weight of the exhaust system...

Lol! It'll get done don't worry.

What a exhaust??

Any ideas on where it will be held next year? Or are you thinking Blyton again?

So another little update. Had a day off the wiring and decided to get the pms decat modified to connect up to the Btb prototype centre section I'll be using. The preferred method was to v band the connection, so a 2.5" v band flange and clamp was sourced. Did a bit measure twice, cut once...

Great news!

I've been in a clio fitted with kw v2's, b14's and Ast sportline 2's (5200's) and for an everyday driver the kw's or billies are the way forward. It was/is my car that had the kw's and the Ast's and @Cub. 's car that had the b14's. The kw's and b14's are fast road and occasional track use...

Get one bought then! :cool:

Needs a shift light or something to stop you hitting the limiter. Lol!

Get someone to put it on full lock while you watch what the aux belt is doing mate. The last thing you want is the belt walking over towards the belt cover. We all know the end result for this! The aux belt tensioner should be able to move on the Allen key bolt as well.

Either pink or orange wire mate. Not the white one as that's the power supply to the coil.

No mate the keyed crank pulley is for the cambelt pulley. That sits behind the crank pulley and it's a Megane item that you'd need. They're only needed if your supercharging/turbo conversion.

Try and get about 10-12mm of rake mate. Set the right front coil over around 5-6mm higher than the left as well. Right hand drive remember so more weight on the right. Then set the left rear 1/2 to 1 turn of the adjuster higher than the right rear. It's all to do with corner weights and diagonal...

Yeah heard and seen madeno stuff before. Very good at what they do too. You'll not go far wrong there tbh. :up:

Lol! f**k rebuilding them then!

Give these guys a call and ask them for a quote to rebuild them. I think it was about £110 per damper to rebuild and revalve them when I had a set done. 01280 822768 No the rear dampers are all the same. I strongly doubt that Koni valved 172's and 182's differently.

It's swings and roundabouts really mate. There's benefits to both setups, but I prefer to have the option to adjust the damper settings. It looks a proper bit of kit though! What's the score with the valving? Is it something that they've decided or has it been developed to suit the car? What's...

You need special tools as well mate to strip them.

Yes mate. The crank pulley is a bit of a grey area as the original has a damper incorporated in the design, but the solid versions don't. My engine has been dynamically balanced so in theory, it shouldn't be an issue.

I have epas on my cup and tbh, I like it. I looped the original rack on mine as well. Regards the 'feel', it all comes down to personal preference I guess, but having the adjuster knob in the car allows you to dial it in to what feels good to you. I got rid of the hpas on mine to free up some...

Well if you need any more eibach springs I'd say give @Russ_16v on here a shout mate. I'm sure I read that he can get good prices on them, and it's where I'll go when I alter the rates on mine. :up: