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Much better than the old setup mate 👌 the design of rad core will cool far better than the old one.

I echo the slow yet fun. I enjoy driving my orange dci on the b roads, can drive it flat out and its quite good fun without too much risk involved

Dcf 899p will easily spin subframe bolts out as they are tightened to a max of 105nm. It wont struggle with any bolts on a clio, it has no problems undoing hub nuts that are torqued to 280nm+. Crank pulley bolt flys out too no dramas at all.

Good to hear no bent valves. Id imagine the bolt that goes in the block is still available from renault. Failing that stick a wanted up somebody will have 2nd hand. Its shared with loads of blocks from that era.

Updates. Orange dci has been treated to a retrimmed steering wheel from Ottoretrims in nappa leather, with perforated grips, red band and grey stitching. Massive upgrade over old melted wheel, its a much nicer place to be. Neww and posh wheel. Still a great little car. Give it a run out today...

6 years is alright in the trade, Nothing lasts forever :LOL:

Mines had loads of use and yet to break, probably more use than most of the milwaukee ones on here:ROFLMAO: Id buy red next time round but for the average diyer occasional use prob not worth the extra spend over the dewalt

Dewalt dcf 899p2.

It could be tdc sensor related, need a scanner to see if rpm is registered. Can you hear the fuel pump prime? It only does it on 2nd cycle of ign turned on

Wont be the alternator causing non start. If its cranking with no immobiliser light on then you need to check if fuel pump is working. Also is rpm needle moving when cranking as that gives you an indication that the tdc sensor is working

Borg and beck used to be a decent brand back in the day, used their parts without issue. Kind of dropped off the radar but have been seeing bits from them again recently

They will catch/hang out arches on the back. When compared to mine on williams clio 7j et36 wheels, as will poke out 23mm more

Greenlight. £350 on my trophy from memory, all mods declared

Release bearing issues at a guess. Keep driving it and let it develop

Thanks all. Mot done, just needs a minor service then will tax it at the beginning of May. Might pop down the motorist in it @NickReilly063

Updates. Sometimes i forget ive got this as it barely moves out of the garage. Took it off the road last September and its not moved from its spot since. Connected up battery, and primed oil system as its been laid up for ages. Unplugged coilpacks and injectors and cranked on starter - oil...

If your using it on the road still take sound deadening out and refit carpet. Weighs hardly nowt and much more pleasant.

Uch fault most likely - send it off for repair to diesel pump repairs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283686488338?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=UI5R_yrXRuu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=sQrVQpEdQKi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Assuming you have not had the bar on the crank, i doubt the valves will have suffered too much. You hve two options really. Turn crank back and get it to where it was pre lockup, nip it all up and get it to tdc and restart procedure. Take rocker cover off and pull cams out. Refit it all...

What have you loosened off, crank or cams? Assume you were 180 out so trying to move it round?

Assume cambelt is off? If its been running should not be miles out? Are you following the workshop manual?

Thats ready for the bin. You could temporary spray the reflector silver if they are hard to find until a better one comes up

Might be fine once starter is sorted. If no crank or short crank, id look into how its wired up. Did fulcrum say if any mods required?

Has it ran before? Can you force ign on to prove card is recognized? Im not 100% on the wiring for 197 - on 182 i had to bypass the starter relay as it wouldnt crank as immob circuit was not complete - assume ecumaster wont deal with immobiliser.

Pas leak assuming 172/182

Antifreeze concentration test should be done with every service to give you an idea on concentration and change it every 3-5 years so wouldnt be concerned with that

Buy the febi type d if you dont want to mix.

If you cant get a decent pedal it will need abs block activating and pressure bleeding. Get a load of fluid and keep bleeding in sequence. The oldskool way to do is wedge the brake pedal down a little to stop the master/abs block draining and change caliper fast. Never let it drain unless...

Thinking about it i dont think its possible to fit them wrong with the way the flexis fit but have seen it done on other cars which makes them more or less impossible to bleed. Pressure bleed it.

Search for something like this This is them fitted on my trophy. Stops the rusty nuts.