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Take them back, definitely something a miss. My speedlines are still nice and white after track use, so a bit of heat in the brakes should not affect them if done properly.

I would not expect any vibrations off the shifter, its more a noise issue as it can rattle at certain rpm's. Mine has settled in after a couple of thousand miles and no noise at all now. Fit the dampener on a road car.

Whats up with the current intercooler ? High charge temps ? Do you have an act gauge hooked up ?

Took the right route of buying one and doing all the bits on it, id say most of the higher priced clios will still need a fair chunk of bits replacing. It will be right for a few years after all the new suspension bits.

The pms linkage with bearings is as good as it gets for the jc5, hardly any play compared to the crap oem bushes. Add a set of vibratechnic engine/gearbox mounts and poly dogbone whilst doing it, once the engine is solid its bang on.

Pms shifter is great, transforms the gearchange & drive. Good solid feel and positive shift into gear.

Use a 90deg lambda spacer on the rear lambda to stop the eml coming on every 2 mins with decat

Sounds like the hose that goes to the acoustic valve on ph2 as reg is in the tank/sender unit, if it is block it or refit it

Is it detting or engine noisy/knocking ? Id expect it to have went bang a while ago if its been detting for a long time.

Thats my go to combo too, works great.

Not a bad job at all the dci cambelt. Ive got to do mine again as the fecking crank seal has started leaking at the pulley end, pain in the arse

Not much happening at the mo but chipping away at the smaller bits. Stripped down a spare oil pump to see if it could be used again as new oil pumps are made of unobtanium these days for a gt turbo. The body is ok, not too scored but the rotors are worn and under minimum tolerances, but should...

Oldskool 6” Record. Its took everything ive thrown at it, put a slight kink in the bar with a 4ft scaf pipe on it, absolutely solid

Comes out the top on a dci 65. Use a 6 sided socket on the nuts holding it to the manifold, as the bolts round off easy

A bit fiddly but not too bad

Turbo seals are on their way with that much oil in the egr, keep an eye on it or could cost you an engine if it starts running away

R5gtt wheels wont fit as the kangoo brakes are too big. 4x108 is wrong pcd so no chance. Any 4x100 15" wheel et35-43 with 60.1mm centrebore will fit no bother

What wheels are you trying to fit ? Most 4x100 will fit on the front without hassle

You will need hub centric spacers for the back

You can get keys programmed no problem if you want a spare.

You dont need the decoder ring around the ign. Just matched key, uch and ecu. I have a cup ecu and uch with matched key here, uch has a fault saying rear door is open all the time but apart from that works ok. Cheap if you want it.

Matched Ecu, uch and key is all you need. You could get the imobiliser reset on another ecu to plug into your current key/uch aswell.

Cup rear shocks are shorter which will sort your issue, had the same problem on aftermarket shocks

Elongate the shocker bolt holes its cheaper, as for setting it up do a bit of research on how camber will affect handling

Squirt some spray grease on the shaft

Gtechniq wm2

My Kangoo with 172 conversion does 40mpg on a run and mid 30s around the streets, reasonably economical for a 2.0 Gearbox probably needs repair if no 5th gear. 6 speed wont fit without a fair bit of work, custom driveshafts etc.

Tow bar wiring probably tapped into rear cluster, follow wire and remove it at the source.

@Austin-182 get booked up

Will do mate. Kangoo is on the road use it quite often. Extra will be back on the road soon too if all goes well.