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Clean it back with deox gel, zinc primer and top coat to protect before it really sets in

Let me know how you find them mate. Ive only drove mine a few miles as turbo oil feed started leaking, but seemed ok for the price. The parts are so cheap, its awesome

Good to hear its sorted. Sometimes its process of elimination on stuff like this, which is time and money consuming

Epic work, looks like its coming together great. My turbo oil feed is leaking on my blue dci so the part number for the seal kit will be a great help, and has saved me spending £50 on a new pipe (y)

The gold board/full chip clone clio work fine. Mine has been used loads on various different Renaults, no issues. The cheapest ones (under £100) with the green board are crap avoid them.

Just send it mate will be fine, i painted over it a couple of hours after the other week, went off fast in the hot weather

Check the injector wiring with a noid light if nothing is happening on number 4. If it checks out ok, itll be spark, or compression test time. If wiring does not check out, trace it until it you find the break.

Rotational vibrations are never suspension related in my experience. Itll be an issue with the spacers or driveshaft, worn inner cv at a guess which may feel worse with the spacers. Have also had a vibration with knackered wheel bearings, with no play at all which was a headache to find sadly...

Replace the tensioner and belt before it ends up in tears. Also check the crank pulley and any other pulleys that run on that belt are not failing.

Clone clip is around half the price of that and the best tool for the job. Did you change the master cylinder?

Looks like the hole has worn oval from loose bolt in the past ? New subframe time or repair yours i guess? Pure motorsport do a repair kit for the 172, something like this could be used maybe if your handy with the welder...

I found it hard to tell which cylinder was off as mine was missing like f**k when injector went. Itll be spark or fuel related if its been running ok, coil pack might have given up

Flashing eml is usually injector, if leads are all on OK its prob coincidence and one has failed, however check the leads are not crushed by the plenum. Resistance test the injectors if you are unsure which one is at fault.

Had a few spare hours yesterday afternoon, so pulled the blue meg out and changed the oil and filter with elf evolution 5/40 & purflux filter. With the meg out of the garage made the effort and got the gtt out, and give them both a clean. Used Bilt Hamber autofoam, it takes 90% of the muck off...

A few jobs done yesterday Started by getting some paint on the sill on the drivers side. Cleaned up nice after deox gel, shot some zinc primer over the top of the bare metal. Coat of BH epoxy masic over that When that had gone off applied a coat of cheap gloss black metal paint over the top...

Im suprised hes not lost his legs if he has stitched that many people up in the past

If the horseshoe wont slot in, it might be far enough out to cause issues. If you have not disturbed the inlet manifold assume its timing related

I had similar intermittent misfire issues too, if its running on all 4 cylinders it will prob be an injector on its way out, check no injector wiring or plugs have been disturbed maybe

What do you class as timing really close? Tool needs to slide in and out of the slots when crank is pinned, or it will definitely cause issues. Its not recommended, but should get away with re using the original bolt/nut on the inlet/exhaust pulleys. Dephaser will need to come off and degrease...

Id bet that you will easily get -1.5+deg on the slots, if they dont allow enough open them out more with a carbide burr. I done my cup shocks myself with a carbide burr, set them up on level garage floor using some trigonometry to -2.5deg, with the original bolts torqued to spec its never budged...

Post CSF update Another successful Csf festival in the Kangoo, went round all afternoon without breaking, brakes held out spot on, tyres still legal, nothing much to report apart from it was awesome getting it on 2 wheels riding the kerbs, had a riot. Got a bit close to the cone at one point...

Check the timing again. If you have genuine Renault tools, undo the pulleys and set it knacker on.

Days leave off work today so had an hr on the blue dci. Whipped engine mount off to check timing belt. Its a dayco belt fitted, so has definitely been done in the past. Not keen on dayco belts so i almost ripped it off and done it but will leave it until another time. Main issue was rocker...

I usually go over the bit with more deox gel and a brush, then use a water bottle and mist water on, dry with a rag and done. Not had too many issues with flash rust. If you are not painting in a hurry, i guess a quick blast of wd40 would stop any issues, but would need to clean the metal...

Mine still does it occasionally with new injectors. Ill go back to my first thoughts, fpr is dropping pressure when stood.

Cleaned arches whilst on jack, full of road muck, same with mudflaps Probably never been cleaned Quick wash, presentable enough for now Took it for a test run and could smell oil and turbo whistle, investigated and found that the plastic boost hose is split both ends. Not sure if turbo is...

Quick update Oraage dci is running epic touch wood, flying along and 64.8mpg everywhere. Its done mega miles recently compared to last few months. Blue dci update, back on with it now Csf has been and gone. Started with changing the aux kit for a new genuine Renault kit, as was chirping on...

I wouldnt even bother attempting to clean the sensors mate, the front ones will most likely break when removing anyway. Just get it scanned, find the issue and fix that job done.

Can clip is the dealer diagnostic interface mate, you can get clone copys. Should be easy enough to fix with the right diagnosis. Find out whats chucking the light on, and prob need a new sensor fitting if one is faulty, or an abs ring may need replacing

Pre cat o2 sensor does go up and down the voltage, so might have been ok.. Scan it with clip and find out what faults are stored before firing the parts cannon at it mate.