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Ah yes I understand what you meant now. Cup dials don't cause the light to come on, thats how Cub got round his. Its programming in the dash.

I'd say its the correct balljoint. How tight is it in the hub, could you not tap it in at all?

That is a very good tip tbh! My solution was better though... Fit aircon lol

With it unplugged you'll get the light still, and limited Bias, makes them bloody horrible! The best thing to do is fit Cup dials, once you've removed the ABS.

Hopefully it turns out well for you, ruins an otherwise mint car.

Lol, Stop stalking me!

If passenger side, I'd personally remove hub and do it with gearbox end still in, to save hassle. Drivers side I'd remove it entirly and do it on the bench.

Re: DCI 65 pov spec commuter OEM+ Much better looks great.

Is this actually possible though, as I believe Dan @ SJM couldn't on Cub's car.

You can just buy the abs ring.

Your instructions were much better tbh. No real need to loosen hub nut before jacking, just make sure car is secure and you have a decent bar.

Nice and easy, 17mm carrier bolts, slide pad retainer out after removing carrier from car, and the small clip holding the retainer. Disc is centre 30mm nut, when refitting, that nut needs to be torqued to 175nm. Check calipers sliders move freely.

Way overpriced IMO.

Reason is you'll generally find tyres in those sizes already exceed the required speed rating and load rating.

Needs to be manually checked, Jack it up, with the wheel still on and tight, feel for play at 9-3 and 12-6, also worth checking (with wheel removed) play in the bottom balljoints with a leaver. I'd say you'll have some slight play in the Track rod end, or inner.

Just loosen the bolts holding the catch on the slam panel, I normally then lower the bonnet onto the catch so it gets it roughly where it needs to be, then tighten up, Can take a few goes. Obviously lube all parts well too.

Very good shout, as I had completely forgotten about this. Mine did this, made some horrible noises to start with.

Non aircon?Will be the aux belt, it needs tightening, they have a stupid manual tensioner. If you don't feel like you can do it yourself, pop into a garage and they will probably charge very little to tighten it slighty.

Can't wait to see it Saturday, Looks spot on there. What are you going to do on it now though!

It certainly needs a good clean!

He brought it round for me to play with too! lol His shaft has had much pleasure. The Clio Driveshaft on the other hand... lol!

Mine to, Had to go back to ole Internet Explorer Lol! I'll remember your shaft, don't worry. I have got a lot to remember though!

I'll try my hardest to remember!

If you're not bothered about rattles or vibrations at idle, you'll be fine with solid mounts. They are an improvement for sure. No engine movement has its upsides.

Solid engine mounts can cause more vibration, I've been in both a car that shook like mad at idle, and another that felt like standard engine mounts. New (ideally genuine) mounts will tighten it up nicely. Knocking is probs the exhaust hitting the subframe/ARB.

I could be up for that Ian. We'll take over their carpark lol.

Need the entire throttle pedal, needs to be a good working one obviously. Brake pedal and clutch, easy to change, theres a single bolt holding them both in, don't f**k it up though.

In bigrez's car, Standard is best IMO. Solids were only fitted to my car as I smashed standard bearings 3 times and was fed up of replacing like for like.

I don't rate PMS solid top mounts for road tbh, they are the ones I mentioned about as they are on my DCi.

Echo the above, No real way of finding out condition other than stripping it which isn't a 5min job. Best way to be sure is either rebuilt, or at least drive the car it came from.