Search results

Thanks Danny :)

Re: Ph1 172 I've got the complete kit including the Gen90 with the ITBs. I bought the Gen90 software to go with it aswell. I need to move 20 pins on the ECU plug then it retains all the standard loom. With other things on this weekend I didn't get as far as I had hoped. But this is where I'm...

Would you leave it disconnected? And then see the same fuel pressure all the time?

Titanium mirrors imo

Yeah I specified the ph1 kit when I ordered and the invoice says ph1 although the later ones have no regulator in the rail.

I didn't see the FPR on there. The rail they used didn't have one.

I'm nearly finished fitting my ITB kit but I can't see anything to connect the FPR to. Have I missed something or am I missing a part?

For the cost of one it'd be worth going standalone unless you can get something dirt cheap. My mate bought a new arm fic for £100

100 million miles? Gotta be a world record surely?

Nice work on the editing, I wouldn't know where to start! This was mine a couple of years ago, the bumpy surface was far from ideal.

I'll be looking at doing this come the summer, if not before. I've seen them retrimmed so I guess they were just bonded back in.

Don't do the windscreen. It's not worth it. Yes it will save you about 5kg but it will scratch with the wipers on, then it will get hazy and need replacing.

Re: Ph1 172 Indeed, looking forward to a bit more poke and the noise on full chat :) I've done the aerocatches and radiator ready. In the process of doing the oil cooler whilst I've got easy access. The first step will be to swap the 20 ecu pins around. Hopefully by the end of the weekend...

I still get roll, enough to warn of impending doom. But it no longer feels like the HMS Ark Royal.

Re: Ph1 172 ITBs and ECU should be here tomorrow :)

They seem to be a pretty tough casting so it'll take a long time to go really dull or corrode. A bit of metal polish with bring them back up easily

Yes you can, the springs will be fine. I would go with the following:- Remove weight - from heigh up and over front wheels is best. e.g battery, aircon, bonnet, windows Solid top mounts - either AST (adjustable for camber and caster, no drilling required) or PMS (not adjustable, require...

Agree with this. Mine is so much better after changing the cup shocks for Koni shocks with the cooksport springs

Take weight out of the car if you don't want a stiffer setup.

Impressive!

Black 182 with a RS200 badge by hanger 75...who is it?!

This would be a much better option, cheaper and no butchering the shell to fit.

I run the dubmeister plates. They are easier to read at night or with lights shone on them than the flat plastic ones. During the day they are no different. I would be interested to know whether they have passed the bull-s**t standard by the manufacturer and not dubmeister. Afaik dubmeister...

-2° is enough on the back. I've got some -1° shims spare .

That's your best bet! Doesn't have to be the quickest, just something you can really connect with. When I was looking there were no cars close enough to have good drive of, so I bought the Ph1 blind. Enjoying it and it'll give me a couple of years of fun.

Tidy E46 M3 would be my choice. With the Evo 2nd and DC5 3rd.

Meek_racing did make one, I was going to do something similar but I've gone all out for ITBs instead. He got some good results, similar or better than RS2 figures. But the inlet runner length was longer than a RS2 or RS2 extra with the 50mm spacers.

I ran one on my last car for 3 years and it was very exposed at the front. Sold it on for as much as I paid as it was still like new.

The one I linked is the biggest that will fit without getting in the way of anything.

I bought it to fit with itbs. The only way it won't fit is if you're itbs point down at the front crossmember, and I doubt that!