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Leave the claying but really you need to do all at once fella. You paint work is bare at the moment, like putting on paint but no lacquer, needs to be done to protect the paint work.
Shouldn't need doing again for a good year fella. Once you get a decent amount of protection/sealent on the paint it will protect it from getting too stuck to your paint.
I used Megs first time round, just the quick clay kit. Now I use the I4D stuff coupled with Megs Last Touch No:16, around...
Ha, yeah, OK that's good then. Best thing fella is to actually listen to the paint/action across the surface. You will be able to tell if you have succeeded as the paint work will be smooth/not catch/sound like running your hands over glass, rather than sand paper.
I should be easy fella. You need enough lubricant so that it glides over the paint work. However, you can still use too much lubricant. Having said that, it is quite hard work as you push backwards and forwards quite a lot, so tends to take a while/knacker you out!!
The car should be covered...
A; You stated "watch qvc i rest my case"
B; I stated you had both a high opinion of yourself (which you have not denied) and an awful grasp of the language. This has nothing to do with detailing; it was purely a fact.
Get your tickets for the fail, reverse boat fella.
Not sure who would...
Oh and by the way, welcome to CS. I will make the assumption that you will not be hanging around for very long/have your own website and/or business and want to promote it? I thought as much.
I honestly don't know where to start!
You appear to have a very high opinion of yourself, especially for someone who has such a awful grasp of the English language.
I do not feel that there is any requirement for an argument, in a thread such as this. I have stated that I am not an expert on...
Sorry; SRP has barely any cut in it what so ever. This is why is the safest n00b polish and why it is a great combo, coupled with EGP, for a beginner.
Therefore, it is also safe on pretty much any surface, including these protectants, chemical or layered materials.
Diamond Brite is fine for...
No I don't think it would take it off, but I don't think it is necessary. But I don't have any experience of Diamond Brite so I would suggest asking the company that did the Diamond Briting.
It would really depend on what the Diamond Brite products are. If they are top ups of some sort then you need to ask someone who has used DB before.
Personally, IIRC, DB doesn't need polishing, so it is meant to take out this stage. But only lasts 12 months before it needs topping up.
Mine couldn't be opposites; mum tuts when I say that I am washing mine, dad joins me! Although having said that mum does like the results of my PCing work with CS member's cars.
SRP is a very good product, but does contain fillers, so may well look good for about two weeks but will then go back to looking scratched.
Also if the paint work looks dull, it is likely to be oxidised and therefore will require more cut than SRP can handle.
Ads mate, mine is starting to get seriously worn. I guess it is just wear and tear so will just replace it for a shiny new one over the coming weeks. My spot backing plate is still pristine which is interesting!
Just to point out people that you really do get what you pay for with these.
Make sure that if you do order in bulk, order one first then do the CD scratch test (wipe it over a CD and if it scratches that, it is going to scratch your paintwork).
Just a friendly word of advice :)