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Sounds good man, let me know how you get on, may come knocking for solid bushings if they prove worth the effort :cool:

idle will be injector for sure, rest is pretty well covered above and welcome, enjoy the build quality..........😂

I want a box adding to my ktec on the phase 1 and it taking off the 182......perhaps if I take both centre sections to exhaust place they could just chop and weld them to swap!lol!

I'd of gone Granny's personally but Que será, será :up: @Goodj

efa :tonguewink:

in theory yes there is a risk as the clip holds the outer joint on the shaft, but with my setup there is no way the shaft could elongate on suspension droop enough to allow the end of the splined section to come out of the CV joint cup. and as the spline is tight anyway (had to use a fairly...

as mentioned above, i'd be getting a known working key/ecu/uch set and fitting that

I've had similar issues, I just removed the circlip from the outer CV joints so the outer joint could sit further on the shaft, effectively shortening both driveshaft's. run like this for 3 years on one side and just done the other side earlier this year and its been fine, done multiple track...

agree with above, just looks ditched, lol! however intrigued by non res centre, may source one for my janspeed as love a bit of rasp and if there's no real drone increase....happy days did you buy new from ktec?

nice one dude, glad motivation is back! and cheers for the help with the sun strip! didn't come off on way home in the rain, bonus!

there will be a resistor somewhere but just in a different place I would of thought, the resistor is what gives the varying fan speeds

yes!!!! phase 1! cup was okay, phase 1 wins ;-)

yeah, hence I've just gone for this and stiffer rear shockers for now and see how it goes

I'm no expecting loads from it, but worth a shot! I don't think its going to work as well with the torsion bar type rear end.

glad you got her to the ring, how's she running now? looks great in the pics too!

there's loads chap, there's technically 3 phases too, as the very early are the only true phase 1, 1992 - 1994 was phase 1.5 https://www.renaultsportclub.co.uk/forum/renaultsport-models/clio/clio-williams/41652-renault-clio-1-8-16v-phase-1-2-specification-s

as most have said, just look what you can afford within budget personally I would always plug for the earlier cars, 172/182 as the consumables, servicing etc are just cheaper and they're better on fuel too, the 197 and above are just too heavy imo if I was on the hunt for a cross over road and...

tidy looking phase 2! the 16" actually suit it too, mine used to be 449 blue and ran 16" turini in a previous life and looked okay n all however my other xerus grey one looked odd on the larger wheels! weird!

my rattle is fine but the cars a track car so usually other parts of it are louder when its used in anger and on trackday commutes I'm headphoned up on the Walkman anyway :) may try the lead shot thing though perhaps

you spelt big engine in land yacht wrong ;-)

get some pics and info of the car up too, be intrigued to see it, love a mk1

on the mk1 the rears are cheap anyway as they are just a pair of shocks and you use the torsion bar to adjust ride height if you buy a coilover kit you will get new rears with it, and always worth changing if your going to the trouble of upgrading the suspension, false economy not to tbh for...

I'm plugging for phase 1 172 or 182 FF................no reason like

as above, 9x out of 10 it'll be injector

limited stuff left for mk1 now tbh, personally i'd go road based coilover like a FK Highsport kit and just set to whatever height you desire ran FK's for years and even with the car lowered by fair bit they ride pretty well and are a decent road based coilover imo

ai tbh RR is never a great base for real world performance, but if it goes well gives you something to shout about! all I know is the car feels better on track with the RS2 than it did without, power spread is better, use gears for longer even if outright power isn't that much up

checked the original links and price has increased to unviable £50 quid for 4, boooooo!

ah Christ that's been butchered, mine uses a small hole and a adaptor tube off the idle valve, didn't have the valve bodged directly onto the manifold! mine ran 193bhp and 160lbft ish iirc on stock engine and exhaust manifold. planning to 182 exhaust manifold and 197 cam it with group n timing...

should be relatively straight forward, if its been on a phase 1 and phase 2 then just bolt her up, connect what you have to it in a logical fashion and block up any holes left mine was similar, been on both but most recently on a phase 1 and I fitted it to phase 1, was dead easy just bolted it...