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After the rolling road, I removed my front springs to measure them up (incorrectly as it turns out) to spec up some new firmer ones in doing so I noticed my shiny new subframe was coated in a thin film of oil/grease of some sort. not loads, but some. So bit of poking about and I found this...

basically the phase 2 172 and twin lambda phase 1 172 systems are the same fitment, only the early single lambda phase 1 172 systems are different (longer)

treid Faulkner, nothing on the website (planned on buying from there) but I may ring them if not I'll have to bite the bullet and go European :(

they could well be, where can I get them from? if they aint the usual 2.25 or 2.5?

I have FK coilovers that run 2.5" ID springs in 7" flavour. they also have 3" helper springs I want to buy some higher lb springs for track use, so my question is what's my best option? leave the standard helpers in there and buy the 375lb I want in normal 7" fitment. Or should I buy some say...

I was only 0.7 behind in my lowly botched up 172 mk1 :P

calling in the debt so soon ;)

I tend to use old ginetta race slicks, dunlops or Michelins, usually medium compound and fit is usually 19/58 or 20/60 iirc.

full slicks for dry days, literally no point in anything else as they all utter toss in comparison i'm on RSR's for wet but not ideal, supposedly the R1R's are better in the wet so may try them next

Good results matey Nice to meet you chap, wounded I had to shoot and missed the vee. Looked lovely when I flashed at smaccy dees as you passed :)

ai good morning out, sorry for not chatting to everyone I was too busy being happy about the below result and taking pics i'll sort through them and post a thread of the 5 or 6 cars I got pics of tomorrow if I can be arsed :) my result, pretty pleased with that!

Went to Dynotec at Ripley today with some of the East Midlands crew, big thanks to ThomasBrentnall for organising a good little morning out :) and I had a pleasant surprise as well ;)

see you kids in a bit :)

the women were dirty, or the underwear, or a bit of both ;)

# well get them on there, ruins it with no caps ;)

lovely mate, still miss mine as well, wish I'd of kept at least one of them :( where's the centre caps ;)

I did the same, binned off the phase 1 for a 182 FF in RB and never looked back. I did like my phase 1 but it was a bit of a shitter and although I prefer the look of the phase 1 from the front, everything else about the 182 I prefer.

as above, stick on Velcro works best, can remove the plates to clean behind them too then ;)

they break, I lose them, couple of sets of wheels I have I never even got any for for the exact reasons mentioned of them breaking or going walkies, I run stud conversion on one of my cars so no need to centralise the wheel to put bolts in. to say its luck I would call misguidance, they are not...

i'll repeat, I have run, on track with no spigots for entire trackdays on full slicks with no issues whatso ever. and by the looks of things you have come to the same conclusion as to what was at fault and that's the paint on the bolt seats on the new wheels.

welcome, my first clio was a 1994 1.4 RT, great little cars

spigots still wont make a difference though, if the micro movement as you put it is occurring, even with perfect spigots only the up/down movement would be eliminated on the load bearing centre, they could still slip rotationally by that logic. unless is a combo of both. personally I reckon...

somehow I don't think you have ;) and I have a feeling your going to reach the limit of tyre traction and lock up waaaaaaay before 4 high tensile m12 bolts snap....in fact I know you do as mine haven't snapped yet and I can lock the slicks up if I want (or more usually due to talent fail,lol)

ooo, can I just get the covers in 15" wheel friendly fitment ;)

perhaps on a 1000bhp 4wd car on slicks on a jam hot day sideways on fire for a 20p clio with naff all weight in it and sod all grip (in real terms) it wont make a jot of difference if the spigot is there, not there, broken, ill fitting or otherwise. I have run spigotless, melted spigot, broken...

as above, the spigots do pretty much nothing other than locate the wheel in real terms. the 4 bolts are perfectly fine for forces well above what we throw at them. look at when cars crash, often you'll find the wheels snaps at the spokes and the central hub of the wheel still remains bolted to...

I run without spigots as I tend to loose them from time to time, doesn't make a difference tbh, the wheels centralise fine when you do up two opposing bolts evenly to allow for it. I would say the issue is as mentioned, the thread in the hubs is not perfect or the common one of the paint not...

only slight bugger is the undertray if you have one, I just bent mine out the way for the swap as I'm lazy,lol!

looks mint matey

pretty much exactly same setup I have in the mk1 and more than happy with the performance. all I need to do is grow some bigger balls to use them later and harder. I use them for open pit stuff as well, and tend to lap a lot in each stint and no overheating or fade issues until the cars...