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422 and 423 need aftermarket management, stronger valve springs and bigger reliefs in the pistons. So I assumer you have these things when you say the specs would suit. From data I've seen if you want peak around 7.8k rpm you want the 423s but thy lose out to the 421s below 6krpm. I guess the...

I've used them before on the road, they're pretty good. Not used them on track but I've heard reports of them standing up to abuse well and not going off. They use them for drifting before they stay so predictable but with a smoking additive

I've driven both. Neither are exciting enough as a second/weekend car, my ph1 beats them both hands down. As a daily driver the Clio is better.

They're the same. Only 182 cup shocks are different.

Rs tuning in Leeds could fit them and map it.

438s and Pipers are more or less the same and give very, very similar gains on the same rolling roads. That's why I said Pipers, saves £250 on the cams to go towards the mapping

The rs tuner runs the piper cams perfectly. The afrs are spot on. What you don't get is the extra spark advance and fuel to go with it. It'll work fine until you get it remapped properly.

Look forward to that!

If the two were at 73 though how would the trumpets fit the 65mm centre holes?

Could you open up the holes on the spacers to match the bodies? As far as I can tell from Jenvey drawings the only difference is the fact that the bodies have 6.5mm holes and the spacers have 5mm holes.

It is 330 :)

Am I missing something? The trumpets fit the spacers, the trumpets fit the DTH bodies, yet the spacers don't fit the bodies. I know the hole diameter is different but the hole spacing is the same.

In terms of gains per £ the Piper cams are best but you need an old set to send away to be reprofiled. Otherwise just get catcams 421 imo.

Its a nice lazy road car. That's all. Gearbox is good. Keeps a better balance on changes and is quicker than manual. Not special enough to buy one as a second car, would make a nice daily to abuse though. More so than the Fiesta ST

Its a Nissan engine so I assume its on the same management Nissan use in the Juke.

Going to have to be the Safety Devices one then!

I don't mind removing door cards to get the door bars in when I need them and I'd rather cut the dash to have the cage behind it. I just can't do without seatbelts. The Safety Devices one is perfect except it's a dash dodger. But I know you can keep all the trim.

Have you got any photos of it fitted? I've tried looking to see if you have a build thread but can't find one.

Ahh :( bummer. Thanks for taking a look for me!

The Oreca one looks close in places too. The light in the roof would have to go as well as the grab handles but not too bothered about them. I don't want to lose plastic trim and seatbelts. I was looking at the CL3 one on here. I'd add door bars to it...

Ahh nice easy job then! Good news I swap my track seats over the week before track days, I'm looking to fit a cage with removable door bars so I can also swap the fibreglass doors over at the same time. I'll have them as track doors, no mechanisms, fixed mirrors and sliders :) It's all coming...

On a ph1 172 how big a job (how long timewise) is it to unbolt the doors, remove them and then refit?

It was the bottom Oreca one I was looking at. Cheap and cheerful and I can get it welded and painted for beer money. I wanted to know if the door bars would clear the trim. I don't mind cutting the dash as I've had a 'dash-dodger' cage before and it was a pain having to remove it to get the...

Has anyone got the Oreca cage with removable door bars?

You need a gas tank in the back to keep the flame going too

Fair play that's a good effort! Less of the UMMs (which is difficult and might take a bit of practise and a few cuts) and cringe at the shock horror bit but other than that it's very good; well done.

Mine's been ok, but I leave it disconnected with a solar charger on it. And then its only a 30 second job to connect it again.

Looks better :) Is that a polo radiator fitted?

Build the airbox into the slam panel to retain the bonnet catch.

Its probably the tyres. Not the fault of the tyres but because having a softer compound on the front and a harder compound on the rear is not ideal for a FWD car and certainly won't help. The other way around is better. Did you touch the kerbs at all when you span? A damp kerb isn't very...