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In the process of setting the cambelt tension with a new schaeffler tensioner as part of the kit, and following the Renault guide & also stone automotive's youtube video (only difference I see is he rotates anti clockwise and manual states clockwise) When aligning the marks on the tensioner, I...

Cheers for the reply, I modified it last night following a few others saying they had the same problem. I started to think Id ordered the wrong pump or something. Nick also replied today and says it seems to be a lottery with the trays, some fit straight on and some need some fettling. Bottom...

Im just attempting to fit the plastic windage tray following fitting the larger oil pump. The tray fouls on the oil pump before it even gets near the mounting lugs or hole. Anyone else came across this issue? Iv contacted PMS to see if theres been a change in pump design or what the crack is...

Link doesnt seem to have worked but was posted on 12th November if you want to look back. I also have a few screenshots from the manual that others had posted on here with the method for doing the No.1 main that I can send if you haven't came across them on here while searching

Ah, that makes sense now. I didnt even twig at the time. I haven't got a thread as such but just picked up all the info from various posts on here. Feel free to drop me a DM with any queries, just literally done the no.1 main last week. I had noticed a post on AW Motorworks facebook page...

Apologies, I looked it up after posting & 5980 isn't anerobic (non setting) so no use for cam cover & can't edit my post

Great build thread and good to see another Phase 1. I'm going through some engine upgrades just now and similar to yourself, pulled the engine out the car so I could work on it properly and have everything cleaned up. ITB's and ARP rod bolts turned into cams also which meant timing belt kit and...

I may be wrong but I would just use the 5980 for the cam cover also

Looks like its the tab for supporting / locating the plastic tray. Frogjam's website mentions it Fitting this pump does require modification to the sump pan - some areas need grinding away in order to achieve sufficient clearance for the oil pickup. Similarly you will need to fabricate and fit...

I used Loctite SI 5980, comes in a compressed tube like many of the others. Definately worth doing while 8n that deep, only problem is you will also have to disturb rear crank seal which can be a bugger to get it to seal properly

Interesting about the oil pump as iv just had the engine on stand and sump off to do rod bolts, no.1 bearing cap reseal etc

Whilst engines out the car Im going to address any common leaks and also I couldnt exactly pin point my small leak. Iv already done no.1 bearing cap and will install new main crank seal. Next Iv got the gasket for front crank seal housing and wondered if theres any pointers for the front crank...

I thought it was advised against skimming flywheels or is that the standard ones people refer to? Clutch is fine so planning to reuse, also was running fine with no issues which makes me hesitant to change and throw it back together 😂

Pulled the engine out the car to do timing belt and fix a few leaks. Below is the condition of the TTV flywheel, been on the car 4 - 5 years but probably seen no more than a dozen sprints / hills. Was running a CG motorsport clutch. Is the below ok to reuse or does it warrant replacing?

Perfect, I'll have a dig around. Many thanks

Bit of a thread revival here as Im after the same for both phase 1 & phase 2

Thanks but won't be needed for what Im doing, im fitting throttle bodies to my ph1

Thanks, I'll have a look through your thread. Sure itl be a great help. Yeah I have the ph2 loom so as long as the pins in the white plug are the same I should be ok or maybe move a few pins. Other option is start from scratch and tie in the ecu into my own loom but rather try and use the one...

In the coming months Im about to fit an itb setup & adaptronics ecu that was removed from a ph2 cup to my ph1. Going over a few things to check their compatible / forsee any issues Im going to have. I'll be closely comparing both looms once I have mine removed. I have the whole engine loom...

Well built but I'd at least be expecting ITB's on it for that money

With the ball ache that accessing the starter motor is, I would be replacing with new item so that your not changing it again in a hurry

Alot of good points made, quite often a misconception that stainless is best

Be careful of using stainless bolts on carbon steel parts, can often cause further issues due to galvanic corrosion and dissimilar metals. Especially in a corrosive atmosphere or where theres lots of moisture / salty roads

Screwfix do sets of nuts and bolts in a tray but can't comment on quality as never used. Something Iv always meant to get myself but I always seem to get by without purchasing a set

I fitted the Aico ones to my home this year as per the new scottish law where they all have to be interlinked. 10 year battery life iirc and they all interlink via radio frerquency so if one goes off in the garage, they will all go off around the house I didn't fit one to the garage but its a...

Thanks, someone else just pointed that out to be aswell and they seem to do alot of good work. Didnt think to check koni site as just thought they wont bother with that but good to see they have two indy specialists for the work

Got a set of new koni (kw) rear dampers to fit my 172 running kw v2 coilovers, want to go for a stiffer rear spring also What companies have members used for revalving dampers?

Forgot to mention I had 3 spare lambdas sitting, threw one of them in and checked and graph seemed to be the same. That isnt to say they were both faulty or past their best like you say Just ordered a new one anyway and be keen to throw it onto the tester out of curiousity and see what...

Just got my 172 running a sports cat through MOT, just. 0.200 CO allowed and scraped by at 0.199 red hot I have checked lambda using rs tuner and it seems to graph ok on idle, could it still be knackered and worth a change? Also checked coolant sensor and is reading true so shouldnt be running...

I would say filter, as thats after its left the pump Sump will be cooler and oil may pick up some heat in the pump so truer reading