Search results

No, it’s because they don’t allow it to fully go to sleep. No need to disconnect the battery. What m5 was it out of interest? The engine failure is something I’ve seen. And when I brief test one and it flags it up on the screen, I’ll take a picture. 👍🏻

Lol - well yeah assuming it gets a kicking! You can do yeah. Loads of people do it. But it logs fault codes when things are unplugged.

We can always tell if ones been fitted with a jb4/other random plug and play box. What’s not so easy to tell is if they’ve been remapped. Some remaps are that obvious though, that the software picks it up and flags it on the system. Every brief test sends back vehicle information back to bmw...

@pule333 are you selling the old setup?

😂😂😂

Cool story. 😂

Ah right ok, yeah that’s been cross threaded then by the sounds of it. Definitely available to order mate yeah, but I don’t have the part number.

That nut is 130nm and also has loctite mate. I’ve never had one work loose and I’ve rebuilt a lot of jc5’s.

If you were told to put your head in an oven, would you do that?

The gen90 has far greater functionality than the oe ecu mate. Keep in mind that I ran this ecu on my 230 n/a motor, retained the oe fbw throttle and also added the fully functional vvt - so not just on/off like the original 1*2 setup.

Wrong way of doing it imo.

Yeah that oil will be fine mate

I did 230 on essentially a standard mk3 head and inlet manifold, so not really anlike for like comparison. It also ran the oe fbw throttle body. @green has itbs. If I’d had the mk3 head flowed fully and gone all out, I’d be on for 270+ n/a. The only way a mk2 head will flow enough air for that...

Ports are in the wrong position, they’re too big and the combustion chamber design is crap. But you need to change pistons in a mk3 head conversion.

Well I could build one for less than mine cost now I imagine, but including all my time and using genuine R3 maxi stuff, I’d say £6-£7k. That’s a figure completely pulled off the top of my head though.

Too much, but I built it for myself as I fancied the challenge. I also wanted something different from the run of the mill itbs/421’s combo. There was a lot or research and development that went into the project as well to make the build reliable.

What rating is oil - as in gl4/gl5? And what’s the gearbox code on the twingo?

I’d say about £100 posted mate?

Mighty 30d at 60mph on my commute......👀

I’m saying f**k the itbs off and use all the mk3 setup mate - head, inlet, aggressive cams and hi comp pistons.

It certainly looks like that to me yes.

If that’s a plate diff I’ll eat my hat. Looks like a standard diff with a bolt on plate for the drive cup. Look at the cross pin for the planet gears - yep, that’s standard Renault.

No worries mate

Wrap it in a f**k ton of cardboard and put softenings around the tin end cover. Go on interparcel and choose the UPS option. Weight is 36/37kg and it’ll cost you about £35 ish. Paisley freight WILL f**k you about if it’s on a pallet. Trust me - me and @rsi_scotty have been pissed around by...

He even let me loose on it to fit his hubs! 😂

Ah ok. That’ll be about 2hrs to watch in snippets then lol

How long is the video? I struggle to get time to watch anything nowadays!

That’s over tensioned mate. The allen key part on the tensioner should be at about 1 o clock.

Remove the driveshaft, drain the gear oil and remove the output shaft seal. Put the new seal on and carefully tap it into place. Refit shaft, refill with oil and road test. Check for leaks - all ok? Jobs a good un. If it leaks again then you’ve potentially got something creating an issue.

@GrahamS R3 maxi for reference: And F4R: