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Ah right I see. Mines on the weld in seat tubes and I can just sneak the battery underneath. The tubes stop it going the rest of the way.

Does the battery fit underneath the passenger seat or directly behind it?

Are your seats on the standard rails? Have a measure up to see if a battery will actually fit underneath would be my advice. Mine is pretty damn close!! I'm on the welded in seat tubes though.

Tbh you'd have gained more from putting the standard battery behind the passenger seat in terms of weight distribution and the c of g anyway mate. Win win situation!

Ah right not far at all then! I'm usually free most weekends mate tbh so your better off giving me a nod when you want to head over and I'll let you know if I'm in. Yeah the 30 will be more than man enough of the job.

I'm just outside the city mate in an area called boley park. If you've sacked the ac off you'll be fine mate tbh. The xenons have a 12v feed to the ballast packs and they're just a glorified coil pack that ups the voltage. Yours will be on the 110a alternator as well if it's a ff, whereas I'm...

If your going to race it, just cut all the airbag shite out mate. I did that with mine and just put tape over the serv and airbag lights.

Xenons will make a slight difference but how often do you do a trackday with your lights on? That's the way I look at it anyway. I did calculate the current draw back in the day when I was keen. Lol! My cable is 16mm sq and I use the same size for the earth as well. A lot of people don't do this...

The c-tek conditioner/charger comes with a seperate fly lead that you can fix to the battery terminals and allows you to plug it in even if the battery's in a remote place. Mines under the passenger seat so that's what I use to connect up.

I also run a varley red top 25 battery in my track car. All I do is leave the car plugged in to a battery conditioner when it's not in use and I've never had a problem with it. I have no leccy windows or heated screens, but I do have lights a stereo and epas - the latter being the biggest...

I run the pms rear bearing kit on my car and tbh I'm not entirely sure you'd tell the difference between that and the powerflex rear beam bushes. The roll centre kit however is noticeable EVERY time you drive the car. Man logic makes sense to me sudesh!

You'd be very surprised at just how hot they get when they're under heavy use mate. To fit a cooler imo is excessive on the jc5. I only did it on my f20 as it was a 2.5k box. Remember if you duct air in you've got to get it out as well. You'll get a lot of drag otherwise and it may even lead to...

HGV mate.

Sorry mate - only just seen this! Yeah they take some real hammer on the selector forks. All it takes is a bit too much heat to break the oil down and your into items getting damaged. The gripper'd add a lot of additional heat into the oil as well. I used to run a gearbox oil cooler on my Quaife...

I'd turn the airbox to point towards the scuttle panel and take the air feed from there (as in where the air inlet for the heater is)

Corrected roll centres will make you even faster mate. They'd even make a car good on cheap coilovers tbh. They definitely work well with cup shocks and Cooksport springs! @lesley can confirm this.

They're like hens teeth mate! Very very rare! If I could find a set of 15" superleggeras I'd sell mine!

Yeah they cut down on the noise really well mate. Need to upload the video of the cup and the T!

That'll do nicely on the road. Stiffer at the rear for the track for definite though I'd say. Fronts might need upping as well though. Best advice - try it and adjust it if you feel it's necessary.

Kg?!?!? Talk in lb!!!