Search results

^^^are they genuine cup racer brake ducts? They appear to fit very well!

As a starting point go for 2" negative and around 10' minutes toe out. Be aware though, this is all driver specific. You tailor the way the car feels to your driving style and what you are comfortable with. There's no definitive 'put x amount of negative camber on and x amount of toe out, and...

I'd be getting the alignment checked as a starting point as well tbh. You want toe out on the front. That helps to reduce the understeer, and should cost no more than £35 to have set!

EFA my friend! :o Flol!

This is correct what tony is saying mate.

Morgan do you know how many splines there are on the inner of the cv joint out of interest???

As swede cup has said, n/s and o/s shafts mate. They're original cup shafts that I've measured as well. See what I mean about them being anyhow!! Lol

As you've already said yourself mate, it's all dependant on the level of repair. I'd have no issues buying a car that's previously had belt failure either, in fact I'd feel pleased that the receipts for the work were there to see, or that the failure was mentioned by the seller. Bit of a double...

Short shaft = 558 measured from face of cv joint that butts up to the rear of the hub. ​Long shaft = 697 measured in the exact same way.

I'll see if I can get them measured today and I'll post up the lengths later.

I've measured it fully from end to end mate, but uncompressed on the o/s shaft. I'll re-measure the o/s again fully compressed if you want mate and also the n/s shaft. Be interesting to compare results as I'm not entirely convinced the frenchies had dedicated parts for these cars tbh. There's...

Laguna shaft used on n/s which is 700mm long opposed to the 660 of the original cup one. For the drivers side shaft I spaced the cv joint 5mm off the back of the hubs as well but you need to modify the original hub nuts. If you wanted to you can put a spacer on the g/box where the o/s shaft goes...

Drivers side shaft copes with the extra track width admirably well. It's the n/s that throws a wobbler. I know - I've done it.

Thats another reason why I fucked everything off on mine and just run with a roof vent instead!! Much simpler!

R-sport sell them.

Agreed!

New rules!!;)

​Fpmsl!!

Lowers the C of G mate.

It is for removing high up weight though!

Not a fairy myth after all! Lol

They were weighed on scales mate and no, the weights are just the glass.

The screen is only different because it doesn't have the rain sensors on for the auto wipers. The front door glass on the cup is allegedly thinner, but I'm not entirely sure I believe a word of it. It's a lot of effort for a pretty insignificant gain.

I think there's about 2-2.5 kgs in the electric motors for the windows (been a long time since I stripped mine and weighed EVERYTHING), but it won't be too far off as an estimate. As for the mirrors I'm not entirely sure it's worth the effort for saving possibly 1/2 a kg. I just removed the...

I know a few people who run the 25's on ac equipped 1*2's without issue mate.

I would imagine so mate. Mine gets drained (slightly) by the alarm, but its never been enough that it won't start or struggles to start.

Mine is fine (redtop 25) and when it's not in use its plugged into a c-tek battery conditioner.

I would imagine so mate! Can't think of any reason why they would be different.

Lol @ 'b*****d!' FYI tony - Martin was at the back row in that Donington race due to wheel bearing failure in race 1!

No, no, it still is nothing special! Lol! No sandbagging required! :o