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I did the very same as yourself and used a simple isolator, I used a bulkhead fitting and in the engine bay it goes ; Bulkhead fitting - isolator - junction box - fuse box Have attached a pic that I found, bracket mounting isnt the neatest but I was kinda hurried at the time and its turned into...

Had a V2 sport for a few years, just expired this year. Couldnt fault it Just bought a 2nd hand hedtec to see me through till 2023 as didnt see the point buying new to only replace again and get 3 years racing from it. Read some good things online about them so nice to see how it compares to the...

Can see what you mean there, just added a spacer to keep it parallel and inline Will get one ordered up anyway and fit it at the same time. Cheers for the info

Just been through the big epas thread and seen the turnbuckle there on the last page. Dont suppose you can remember the size of the turnbuckle required?

Perfect, thanks for that. Looks much neater with the turnbuckle, is that what you have fitted? Where did you get it from? Install looks great with all fresh bolts etc! Iv a cambelt due before next years racing so going to sort out the pas delete before it goes for cambelt and then get it rebuilt...

What belt did you use with your setup and did you go ahead with routing it like the pic you posted? Any problems with it? Iv currently got a pms as delete (original one) and going to change to a cup setup aswell as removing pas. Want to minimise the amount of pulleys so dont want to run the one...

Few have said its even worse with a gripper diff fitted which Im planning later along the line so thought best to have epas as a backup

Can the epas setup be used on any rack or is it best to use it on a non pas rack? Thoughts was to remove pas and loop my current rack (Ph1 172) and see how it goes. If I dont like the feel then add in the epas column etc to the rack. Would this work and anyone done it the same way?

Email safety devices and see if they have any used cages coming into stock They changed the design of the full cage for clios and they were exchanging them for anyone who had the old style. Cages were then inspected and sold on, often listed on their website. I got a full cage for £360

Sorted! £68 in total Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

3 out of 4 of mine were ok just last month and that was on a 120k mile Ph1, thought if I put on fresh ones with some copper grease they would be ok for a fair while Apologies, cant find the photo I had of the part numbers anywhere Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got all part numbers here for bolts, nuts and cages. Comes in at around £70

Is England different from the scottish classes? Clios are A2 for road going class and B2 for modified in Scotland

Would it still come under B class or would it then go into C class as clio’s didnt have the option of a turbo as standard? Would be in similar class to cars with engine conversions I would think I tried to have a look at the blue book but wasn’t very clear as usual!

Link below to the 2018 blue book, it isn’t the easiest to understand especially for someone new to it. https://www.motorsportuk.org/assets/000bb2018completelow-res88.pdf Being a turbo conversion may really over complicate things for getting it to fit into a class and then you requiring alot...

In A2 road going class you dont need any extra equipment over standard, just certain criteria to be met such as no rose joints / solid top mounts, poly carb windows to start as theres a few things. You can still have it highly modified in this class With being a turbo conversion this will...

Such a shame when rust appears like this as usually by the time you see it from the exterior its far too late. Integra DC2’s were bad for the same, rotting from the inside out

Theres a direct comparison between normal 172 lower arm and 172 cup lower arm

Which elbow are you referring to? Cant think what part you are talking about

Part no’s for those interested, £68 for all 4

Yeah got them from renault. £68 for them all together. Will look today see if I still have the invoice for part numbers

Old cages came out no problem with a wee bit of fiddling, new ones slotted in no problem. Job done. Well worthwhile while the subframes dropped imo

Great, cheers for that. What I was hoping to hear Removed one cage yesterday, just a case of pushing the locating tabs in as much as possible and prising it out with a mixture of drivers / prybar. Will be a bit easier maybe with subframe dropped rather than doing it with it in place. Making...

Just dropped my subframe for a manifold swap and 3/4 of the bolts came away ok, one of the fronts required the cage removed and held with a socket. Im looking to replace all the nuts & cages as I fear I may not be so lucky the next time round and some of the cages look quite rusty and aged...

For all the extra time involved I just took the rad out the way to make it alot easier for myself as any space gained is always an advantage when working on the clios!

Manifold will be mild steel I think. Im currently having a V band installed on my manifold but having it done before I fit it as would be quite tight for access when its on the car and getting the weld all the way round it. If access is too tight, you could unbolt the manifold and surely be...

I just added in a simple isolator under the bonnet while I was doing the wiring for battery relocation

Had no anti rattle clips on my CL RC5’s and they rattled like hell and sounded awful However I Have read that PBS’s are alot better without them and dont sound like the cars disintegrating so sure you’ll be fine

Their not as expensive as you think! This is a well known sprint / hillclimb competitor who supplies batteries. PS09 is reccomended for Clio

Is it for a daily or track car only? Looked into lithium ion ones? Im still just running the odyssey pc680