Search results

Aye that's right but he's not got any left now. I went with the ebay one in the end, still have to fit it.

Was it the petrol pump itself or is it the same regardless of pump? I've occasionally found the odd pump that doesn't work very well.

Forgot to get back to you on this. I'll have a look at the nick of mine and see how it looks. How much are you thinking?

Are you meaning the rotary switch in relation to the wheel? I was chasing my tail for ages on my cruise control fault, which sounds the same as yours. Thought it was an issue with corroded rear lights but that was a red herring and it was the rotary switch/its wiring all along.

Cheers.

Anyone bought this one? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Renault-Clio-1-2-172-182-Sport-End-Of-Bonnet-Seal-New/233462779242?hash=item365b774d6a:g:aW4AAOSwuJFeGeHR The Renault ones seem massively overpriced for what they are.

Around 36k miles.

Car only just got serviced in October. Cheers for those links but I suspect if I want to have any cover with the specialist should anything happen they would need to supply the parts themselves.

Perhaps I should have said anything other than what's covered in the cambelt and auxiliary belt kits as they're a given. Dephaser looks more like around £150 from what I can see and when you start adding it up along with other bits and bobs getting done at the same time you're into £750 before...

Dephaser a must every 5 years? Is that not a bit excessive? The dephaser I had replaced in 2015 was original as far as I'm aware and there wasn't anything obviously wrong with it.

Trophy is due its second cambelt in my ownership in the next month. What else should I get replaced that may be original that can only be done when the cambelt is coming off? The dephaser and water pump were already replaced last time at 10 years old and were fine so that's 2 things I won't be...

@NorthloopCup is your man.

The Trophy dampers reveal their credentials best on a typical British B-road with very rough tarmac. I've driven over some pretty rough surfaces locally to me and absolutely nothing phases them.

Should have said, it's a 182. It never used to do this, nothing near it, and I park on a flat surface. It shouldn't put the fuel light on and have the range drop dramatically the following morning when I've parked it up with 80 miles range left the night before. I used to see a comfortable...

Any common or likely issues that could cause this? This becomes more inconsistent in the last quarter of a tank where it can vary quite a bit. Fuel light can come on way earlier than it should given the needle position. First sign of a problem was a while ago now when I'd park the car after...

Thanks, I shall keep that in mind if I get a re-occurrence. It's been totally fine since posting this. Wonder how much it sitting doing nothing for 2 weeks contributed.

Appeared to be issue free today and was up to temperature quickly. I'll keep an eye on how it performs.

Yes but what I mean is on the 10 minute drive I was talking about, it would always get to operating temperature on the gauge within that journey, it was still clearly short in this instance.

Do you have a short shift kit fitted?

Haven't driven the car for a couple of weeks due to being on holiday and tonight noticed with the recent temperature drop that the water temperature took noticeably far longer to get up to operating level (still hadn't got there after a solid 10 minutes driving). I suspect the previously milder...

Surely it would be obvious given the mechanic has had them out?

I've also got a reply on the cliotrophy forum I posted on saying all the mk.2's had the same calipers regardless of being a 182 etc. In which case there are options on ebay, assuming that is correct...

Struggling to find these listed anywhere, can anyone point me in the right direction? Front ones are no issue to find but I'm told the pins in the rear of mine are worn. To the point the rear brakes can make a bit of a racket if you pulse the pedal when coming to a standstill.

Assuming the pads performance stays constant over their life, I'm very happy with the change to TRW. Only been on a couple of weeks but there's a massive difference in cold and maximum performance. Honestly can't remember the last time I was able to activate the ABS in the dry on good tyres.

Magic cheers. Would make sense then as it's only the performance from cold I'm looking to improve so no point paying 3 times as much for something I won't fully get hre use of.

Where do you get those TRW pads?

This is tricky when you get multiple contrasting opinions on a brand.

Why would it be the same as a stock pad now?

Deglazing? They work well enough after the aforementioned relatively hard stops to get them warm.

Did you fit new discs at the same time? I only had all the brakes done last April so surprised my pads are so low already, would like to think I can get 2 sets of pads to a set of discs for once in my car ownership experience.