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Every time i see this thread i wish the title was "Dieppe does Dallas". Truly wonderful stuff though! keep it up.

So! Rebuild complete and engine back in the car. Obviously it didn't start first time that would be too easy! So putting together a plan of things to check. My suspicion is that the ECU (Gen90 repined for a ph1 by yours truly) is not getting 12v. Things to note: Car has not started in ~15years...

for the avoidance of doubt, you mean this?

Shouldnt need a puller to get the old boss off. Put the main T45 bolt back on a few turns followed by the steering wheel then just wiggled it left and right until it comes off the splines. (bolt in so you dont smash yourself in the face with it when it comes off). To remove the column there are...

Did a little search on this topic and coudnt find anything. The PMS shifter comes with a slight angle in the shifter: Is this angle meant the knob towards the front of the vehicle or the rear? I have currently got it leaning the knob back but I'm getting some contact with the heat shield.

c'mon gang! surely someone can stick their head under the bonnet and see which pin the wire goes to!! would rather not flip a coin on the matter. Unless wires go to both pins...

Getting real good at digging up old threads, can someone share the belt size you use for this set up? I have something similar on my build but have long since forgotten the belt size.

I had previously removed my alternator plug and fitted a spade connector as I was running an alternator from a mk1 on the alternator mounts I have. Now I have a new cup alternator, I am told the VVT solenoid plug can be used on the alternator so will wire that on but what pin do I need to wire...

Your MOT tester is telling you to find the guidance on the MOT guide? Sorry but it's that their job? It does seem like not all testers are created equal, and finding those more familiar with the niche rules is key.

Thanks, I guess I was just wondering, even with the friendliest of testers how it is justified if you get pulled over by the police. but it seems like the loophole is all above board so its all OK technically.

I'm thinking airbags, original seatbelts ABS etc. More that you could reasonably put back in just for an MOT. It's been about 15 years since I've driven my clio on the road, this all came in since them. But this demonstrates my point. Is there any responsibility to prove that its a competition...

so with some updates from photos from my helper (shout out to my parents for letting me use their garage for my build). Love that all photos taken by my dad are in landscape. nice candid once engine was in. Subframe out and lined up with the car. Followed by the wheels and putting it back...

New oil pump installed, it looks huge by comparison, i had to go back and cut more of the sump off, but I didnt take any pictures. Very close to the crank too, but Nick from PMS and members on here assured me this was OK. Also ARP bolts were installed when I put the new big end bearings in...

Right! Reasonable update this time! Firstly - front suspension back on and looking good! I need to get some kind of cleaner for my arches to make them sparkle a bit more! any suggestions would be great. I was then hitting a bit of a wall with the build. I new I needed to drop the sump after...

Well the servicing costs a very reasonable, especially if you pay cash and drop them off/pick them up yourself!

I am planning on having my track car completed by sometime late spring, it has been about 10 years since I have had a road legal track car and it seems that the MOTs have gotten a lot stricter with more binary rules like "factor safety equipment must be retained". Now I know a number of people...

This was the Mégane kit sold on the pms website.

Exactly what I was hoping to hear! Thanks!

Dig dig Are the flywheel mounting holes equally spaced? How does one make sure they get the notches for the tdc sensor in the right place?

Does anyone know why there is an empty hole? I thought I had bought too few m7s earlier until I realised there wasn't meant to be one in the top left.

tentatively :p . see this kind of thing really isnt helping!

consider me reassured. I will come and hurt you if my pump and crank find themselves in holy matrimony.

will give it a little tap when I make my final assembly. I assume its just a little tap on the flywheel end. I'll be honest also, i did contact Nick from PMS already and he said it was fine, wanted a second opinion,

How does one "remove the end float"? Id say there is about 3-5mm between the pump and crank at this so unless the float is going to take away nearly all of that then I would say a feeler gauge will fit.

I mentioned this in another thread but it didn't get anything back so its getting its own thread. I have installed the uprated oil pump kit from PMS as part of my bottom end rebuild. The clearance to the crank is quite concerning to be honest, got about a gnats pube worth of clearance to the...

Wow! That looks clean! And 45k! I thought mine was low at 87, that's insane! Must be one of the lowest ph1s, especially from the early examples. Will be keeping an eye on this!

also what sealant do people recommend?! since you lot are making me do this!!! And anyone local to essex have the correct tool?

I assume this is ID/OD? Looks like you could probably use something like this (ebay special) as long as you can make sure you don't smash it in too deep. It seems like the jury is now on the side of doing it=... lame! I slacked the bolts off and couldnt get them done up again! (f**king...

This is what I do. Touching the two probes gets about 0.6ohms resistance. I think the I/O beeps up to ~50ohm. Between in 28 and 30 I could measure in the order of 20Mohms, note that if I put my thumbs on the two pins I get something similar so very high.

Yup basically zero. Could moisture have got into the ECU and shorted the pins on the PCB?