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Both O2 sensors plugged in? And check for air leaks on the inlet assembly. Other than that you may have dirt in the fuel rail or loose connection on injectors. At least you know it has potential to run properly. Just needs to be a process of elimination.
I'm sure others will have suggestions too...
To some extent you are right, but what you are experiencing is the pump priming. The ecu controls this so if pressure doesn’t build in the system it cuts the pump rather than continuously pumping. (Which makes emptying the tank after a race tiresome!)
I discovered an earth behind the passenger...
Been running AO50s for last 2 seasons but just moved to AO52s for the last race of the season and they were epic.
(Twice the price though)
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When you say the starter motor spins, is it actually turning the engine over or just spinning without engaging?
It sounds like the starter might be on the way out.
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The night practice session was about the only time that the car ran (almost) at 100%. It was still misfiring a little bit. Still haven't got to the bottom of the problem, but then I haven't had much time to get into it since then.
Ha! Well spotted. Someone else pointed out the article in the magazine this week too.
With my Demon Tweeks sponsorship sticker visible that should be £150 voucher too!
It all helps!
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Do you have any camber shims on the rear too?
I run a 10mm spacer which has 2degree camber machined into it and also run a small 5mm spacer with my wheels which are ET35. But it will also depend what your ride height is set at.
I have also rolled the arches as a precaution but have never had...
Yes, you've probably got a dodgy sensor or more likely a loose or corroded wire going to it. You'll find it low down on the front of the engine at an angle down in to the sump. Beside the dipstick.
Valve snapped. Not necessarily due to timing out but probably just due to giving it a thrashing.
Standard valves are known to fail like this although I’ve also had a Supertech valve fail for no apparent reason too.
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Yep, what he said.
Mark is old school but is meticulous and knows these cars backwards.
I’ve used him for cornerweigting my car for years
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Yes those are the ones. 6 in total.
Just out of interest have you checked you’ve got the same stub axles on both sides?
172cup axles were about 5mm thinner than standard. I found this on my car a couple of years ago.
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Not ideal but yes, an axle spacer will work.
Not a wheel spacer though.
There is a bit of adjustment on the rear subframe if you loosen all the bolts so you might be able to do that.
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I always thought this pipe could be a weak spot. I siliconed mine in as I built the engine. They're not easy to extract from the block though, especially without removing the water pump.
Sorry, not very constructive I know. But I do sympathise.
2 Weeks ago we had the final race meeting of the season at Donington. The finale being a 40 minute night race following the usual 40 minute race on Sunday afternoon. All the racing over the weekend was streamed on Youtube so we got plenty of coverage over the 2 races. Not always for the right...
That's true and it may point to the fact that even changing the airbox may mean you'd benefit from a remap. Both figures seem a little low but that may be down to calibration. The difference between the two figures is what's interesting.
Haven't counted the teeth but it's standard 172. I've got a couple of them, both the same.
oil pressure mod effectively increases the tension in the spring in the pressure relief valve helping to keep the pressure up.
You’ve got the correct one. At least that’s the same as mine.
Worth doing the mod to it to help oil pressure while you’re at it
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