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Power primed for durabilty, then I supplied the correct Akzo Nobel paint which I had mixed especially to meet the original colour match. The original wheels where electrostatically painted, so it's very thin and chips/corrodes easily. The process I had done should see them good for a few year!:cool:
I think your right there mate...it could be just where the particles were so hot the've bonded themselves to the Laquer. I really regret buying some DS2500 Race pads now...there s**t hot when there up to temp...but they give off soooo musch dust it's unreal....I cleaned and sealed my wheels on...
Thought I'd order some Bilberry Safe Wheel Clener, seems good value for money
http://www.valetpro.co.uk/Products/Cleaners/Bilberry+Safe+wheel+Cleaner
Will these types of non acidic/aggressive cleaner remove minor pitting in the laquer?
Hi, I had my willy wheels re-furbed a while ago and I originally used 1 x coat of EGP and 1x coat of Swissvax Autobahn Wheel Wax before I put them of the car. I tend to wash them once a week maybe once every 2 weeks, but I took them off this weekend to re-apply the wax etc and still found it...
I have a pc mate....ur welcome to have a go at it if u want to borrow it. The polishes I have are not very harsh...so u'd be doing well to do any damage. Give me a shout if u need a hand. Matt
Thanks m8..might be easier for me to pay u to do mine...:rasp:Lol....can't get hold of he polish from anywhere at the mo. I don't live to far from u...:o
Cheers Rich...which of these polishes would you recommend for older paint....
Intensive Polish (PO85RD 3.01)
Intensive Polish (PO91L)
And which of the finishing products too? Most of them say they are for the newer type of scratch resistant paint.
Cheers, Matt
Well...what can I say...i spent near enough all day today trying to pc the rest of the car, and used the 4" pad and 2.5pb's on every panel. Most of the came up fine...but I just could'nt seem to make any kind of impression on the roof at all :dapprove:. Really think that I need to try something...
Generally I was putting a circles worth of polish on each pad when covering the areas mentioned above. I just think that I was not spending enough time on each area, whilst doing the passes.
I know what u mean...it seemed as though sometimes the amount of time it takes for the polish to break down and powder seems to differ. Depends on the pressure you are using i suppose.
I split the bonnet into three sections...the middle budge and the two bit of the bonnet either side. I used the 6" SFX-1 pad on the bits either side of the budge and the 4" on the budge, edges and around the lights and front. I did 3 passes with pb's 2.5 on each section with a good bit of...
Had another go on the bonnet tonight...with the SFX-1 Pad and the 2.5 pb's...definately seemed to remove a lot more of the spider webbing and scratches...but there's still some there! I this this lacquer must be super tough....so I guess it may need some more persuation. It's still on it's...
Well...i did'nt really use that much pressure first off all...but when I did a second pass with the SFX-2 Pad and Poorboys 2.5 I did it a bit harder. I use the 4" pad around the lights, bonnet bulge, edges etc.
So the next step to try would be to try a 4" med cut pad with the 2.5 pb on the...
Finally got my pc yesterday, so I decided to give it a go on the bonnet tonight. First of all I use the SFX-2 Pad with Poorboys SSR 2.5, then a SFX-3 Pad with Poorboys 1. Thing is....the bonnet looks great now and it's nicely polished....but I can still c scratches in quite a few places. Would...