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Also, before you start, depress the brake pedal with a baton of wood or similar and wedge it between the seat and the pedal to keep the pedal depressed whilst you work. The pedal doesn’t have to be all the way to the floor; the aim is just to apply some pressure.
This will ensure the piston in...
I’ll caveat this with I’m no suspension expert, but when going from inboard spring to full coilover at the rear on a Clio, there is a change in motion ratio from 1.7:1 to 1:1.
IIRC, what this basically means is that a lesser spring rate is required for a full coilover to generate the same...
Whilst I haven’t used it when bleeding the brakes on my 172 yet, I have checked and my icarsoft CR Max diagnostic machine will let you activate the abs pump via the service menu, so I imagine other diagnostic machines with service functionality would be able to do the same.
I spoke to both FOZ & CBR before Christmas:-
Kirk at CBR was booked solid until beginning of March, but believe this was something he could do.
FOZ pointed me in the direction of someone they’ve used for similar stuff, so I’ll be making enquires with them after the festive period.
So either...
Thought this was we the best place to ask this; Can any of the Scottish contingent recommend a welder/garage in the Stirling/Falkirk/Central Belt area that could repair my now rather non-existent driver’s side jacking point & floor pan section on my 172?
Welding is not something I can turn my...
Thanks for all the responses and @Anakin thanks for the photos, these are really useful and will be good reference for if I go back to running standard belts in the future - which I might do when my little one gets bigger.
For the moment, I think I’ll opt for getting new sleeves/spacers made...
Evening all,
I’ve been trial fitting my newly acquired MSV/Caged bolt-in rear cage tonight and I’ve got a question regarding the fitting of the rear bar that goes between the rear seatbelt mount.
The cage came with 2 sets of spacers; 2 thick & 2 thin:-
From some CS research and trial on the...
It’s been a few years since I removed my OEM seats, but yeah i’m sure it mounts into the runner.
I think the airbag light only illuminates if the switch is disconnected from the loom itself; I had to leave the switch wired in-place when I fitted my bucket seats or the airbag light wouldn’t go out.
That’s the driver’s seat position switch, it tells the airbag ECU when the seat is in the correct position (non-tilted - i.e. letting someone in the back).
I ordered one of these ones from autodoc for my driver’s door (admittedly it was £12.15 back in 2021, so might be cheaper options on eBay etc these days). Gave it it a good coating of white lithium grease when fitting and it’s its spot on for the bit of Chinesium that it is.
The combination of having a now 1 year old, the wife being back at work and the rubbish Scottish weather, means I haven’t driven the car, other than to move it out the drive a couple of times; so no real update unfortunately.
Have you tried playing about with the damper settings? Essentially, I...
interesting that the same issues don’t seem to be confined to a single brand of rear damper/coilover.
@JamesBryan that’s exactly where my mind first went and why I swapped to the Powerflex upper mount (and made a s/steel sleeve with the same ID as the GAZ shaft diameter) as the rubbers supplied...
So I’ve been out again and spanner checked everything yet again, just to be sure and all was tight, so ruled that out.
Then had another play with the damper settings and found that the noise now pretty much disappears (for the moment!!) when stiffening up to 6 clicks from full soft and upwards...
Evening all,
I’m in need of CS guru’s help to try and track down what it making a near constantly rattle from my GAZ Gold rear coilovers that’s appeared after a fitting full set to my 172.
Bit of background; These coilovers were bought new by me with 400lb front & 300lb rear spring rates and...
Evening all,
After treating the Clio to some GAZ Gold coilovers at the end of last yearthey have finally arrived from GAZ. However, I’ve noticed the front’s don’t have the little bracket/bar with the threaded hole for mounting the ABS wire bracket too, as per the OEM shocks.
Just wondering...
If I remember rightly, I used a couple of 10mm x 4mm self adhesive rubber dots like these:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/155021063225?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FGS9t3N6T-6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=dEV7NPoNTzq&var=455189285749&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Had them on for a couple...
haha, nice spot @JamesBryan, I didn’t even notice that 😂.
I bought them ages ago to use with my drill (pre-die grinder days) and I’ve just used the 25mm cup brush to clean up the hub mounting face fitting my RCK….at full send on setting 1of the die grinder.
It didn’t fall apart, but it’s...
Slightly related, yet tangential; I had the fuel pump fail on my 172 last summer driving home from work one evening. No warnings, funny noises just died whilst doing 60mph.
Looking back on it now, the only potential indicator was having to quite often having to do the 2 cycles of the ignition...
The ’chain‘ for attaching the fob to the keyring looks identical to the ones fitted to scorpion alarm fobs (the chain is supposed to look like a scorpion tail…vaguely).
A quick Google and this fob looks very similar to other vintage scorpion ones, so if they‘re still in business, it might be...
Another vote for the in2detailing DA8 & Scholl S20 and pads bundle, I’m a complete novice in the world of machine polishing and so far I’ve buffed the Clio’s headlights with it…didn’t ruin or melt them so it’s a winner 😂
@Hxrry would just like to second this one; ordered this a few weeks ago and finally got round to trying it at the weekend, worked really well, so i’m very pleased with it. However, my wife says the smell is still stuck in her nose and we’re now 4 days on from using it….didn’t bother me...
I’ve got one of these:-
https://www.halfords.com/motoring/battery-maintenance/battery-chargers/halfords-advanced-smart-battery-charger-plus---6a-238350.html
the Clio lives on it whenever it’s not in use. Used it on lots of other cars as well and it’s been faultless. Currently £36 if you have a...
Sounds like a good plan; especially given I have no idea how long mines was actually broken for and didn’t notice any issues….but then again, I think I’ve average 1k miles per year over the last 4 years and can’t remember the last time I actually drove it at night 😂
yeah those xenon level sensors are fragile beasts. When I did my axle bushes before Christmas, the ball joint on the axle had already broken off, so this meant having to drill off the ball joint on the level sensor:-
Then had to resort to an aftermarket solution courtesy of eBay; actually...
No problem at all chaps, hope it’s of some use.
Yeah it’s a property sh***y job, but it’s worth doing, especially given the ages of these cars now. These were the state of mine; before and after removal, well overdue a change:-
@DavidDave here’s what I used, along with some explanatory notes in brackets:-
Rear Axle Carrier - Body
- M10 x 1.5 x 120mm, Hex Head set screws, grade 8.8 x qty 6 (couldn‘t readily get metric fine threads and bolts didn’t have enough threaded length portion, so went for fully threaded screws)...
yeah, does seem strange why Renault would use 10.9 stuff elsewhere in the suspension and then go 8.8 for the rear axle, but then again, it’s French and nothing really surprises me anymore.
@DavidDave yeah Renault prices for the bolts were mental. I found a local fastener place and got all the...
I wonder if Renault changed the grade of the bolts during production life, as mines were definitely the originals (2002 172) and had 8.8 stamped into the heads of them, but have seen numerous info in the past saying that OEM was 10.9 grade.