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https://www.ngkpartfinder.co.uk/catalogues/cars/search/spark-plugs/RENAULT/CLIO/2010/

Do you have a regular non fast charger for M12. It should charge on that. I had a 6ah that didn't like the fast charger, but was fine on the normal one.

I'd just check for wear when you take the caps off, then go from there.

Is his sister still fit?

@Advikaz's mate at Middlehurst's Got a lot of history with GTR's those guys.

£120 from Renault for a full set 😂

Probably best to check, i might be getting confused with rod bolts 😅

Where are you located? Maybe someone local could scan it for you.

Need a scanner that can give better info. A half decent one will usually tell you what it is. Most likely a sensor.

They're M7 i think.

Yeah that's pointing to it being them.

If you wanted to check the swivel bearings, pop the track rod end out of the hub and then turn from side to side by hand and feel for anything weird.

Dual mass flywheel at a guess.

E and G

Yeah or the starter itself.

My 182 did that when the starter relay went. Absolutely nothing when I turned the key. In the engine bay fuse box, you'll see 3 brown relays. The middle one is the starter, swap that with the top one which is the fan and see if it does anything. That noise at the end just sounds like the...

Price of the alternator, then labour probably an hour to remove and same again to refit, plus new aux belt.

110 Amp. Don't bother with aftermarket, find a reconditioned Valeo.

Looking at £250 an hour. For an idea it's probably 2 hours to do a full engine bay properly. My mate tried to get into it but after 6 months gave up and sold the gear. People don't want to pay the price it seems.

Corroded plug too.

They're surprisingly efficient for 20+ year old tech. Probably give a lot of modern stuff a run for their money. Best I got in my 182 was 48mpg. That was non stop from Warrington to Maidstone, so 200+ miles, but was loaded up with gear to camp at Le Mans.

I've not seen one since about 2010 😅

Pop the spark plugs out if you want it to turn over by hand a bit easier. You can also use a long screwdriver or similar in Cyl 1 or 4 to see when it's coming up on TDC.

Crank pin position will be the same. Same procedure on all F4R. Assume you have standard cam timing and not Group N or similar?

I don't think you can swap these side to side, otherwise you could have tested it that way.

Decent stuff the Unilite gear.

If the 200 sensors are anything like the Mk3 Megane ones, they're fragile as f**k for some reason.

Do your headlights flicker?

If it's anything like the Mk3, when the battery has been off it asks you if it's new with a Yes/No on the dash. That's all that should be needed.

Wouldn't worry about that if they are replacing the belts. To remove the lower bar/rail, you have to remove the bolt and then the bar needs tilting upwards on an angle to get it out. There's like a slot it goes into, so it just needs a wiggle to get it out.