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if you have understeer with the willy IMO i suppose u have something wrong.
understeer is something i have never experienced in my williams, unless i had crappy tires at the front, wrong tyre press or i got the corner totally wrong
Quote: Originally posted by MartinS on 17 March 2004...
hi all
just as information
i bough a leak down tester and tested both my and my GF williams
my williams, with 200k km on the clock, passed the test with flying colors. 20% leak on all cylinders, which sounds very good for a engine with that sort of mileage
the bad news came from my GF...
usually pops and bangs indicate a over rich mixture. could be normal on the clio but i would be curious to know why. usually kat engines, even when dekatted, run rather lean
Quote: Originally posted by Clio_Bus on 16 March 2004
<FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #407db6">keep gettin...
well now u get a well deserved dose of i-told-you-so ;-)
it can only be what has been mentioned before. wishbones, rose joint, struts, wishbones bushings, subframes.
how much is the car lowered?
PS. u cannot test the bushes just pulling a little, u need a large lever, or try the car on...
thats a load of bull. any garage will stay warmer than outside if not just by the heat brought in by the car with a hot engine
higher temperature means that there will be less condensation, therefore less water so the car will be drier in the garage than outside.
just fit a small fan...
advance timing is recipe for disaster
Quote: Originally posted by paddymcc on 10 March 2004
Yep the wires changed round so theres more timing pulses or something like that.The method is on ths rtoc forums on how to do it, it advances the timing i think.
im sure it can be done but why? besides, those baby brake disks inside those huge rims will look bad. hope u have at least rear disk brakes....
i recently say a very nice mitsubishi evo7 with some nice bodykit and 18s. the effect was somewhat spoiled by the sound of the diesel engine...
beware of those scams. if it was so simple and cheap why renault didnt do it on the car to start with
Quote: Originally posted by 1.8_16v_Clio on 10 March 2004
Just flicking through the BB Catalogue and saw the above and they say it adds bhp? Sounds Dodge! What are they cus my mate says...
hi
i tend to disagree. closed loop, at least in some ECUs i know (im not too familiar with the strategy of clios ecus) has a limited range of closed loop correction. if the maps are wrong by say 100% or injectgor flow increased too much, i doubt closed loop will have the capability or speed...
max poower iw not everything. also driveability is very important. if the power band is too narrow perhaps the power will be higher but lap time will be worse
Quote: Originally posted by stan* on 09 March 2004
a road map isnt for max power, no. but wots the point in goin 2 the trouble of...
in fact i believe it might gain 0.3 bhp with that
Quote: Originally posted by jon_r on 09 March 2004
im sure youd need to be going pretty fast to create a ram effect.looks good though.
hehe right in fact the needle was a blur. i had to shortcut the fuel pump relay so it was always on and checked that way.
anyway, the duke idles at 1000rpm more or less and at 1 inlet phase per turn, with a little patience u can spot the needle ;-)
i Quote: Originally posted by jimbo on...
i doubt any engine can take advantage of the (alleged) higher RON unless ignition maps are modified
ECUs cannot yet manage the ignition timing. there is a knock sensor but AFAIK it is just a safety feaature
ok is a settable fuel pressure valve.
well what is stated in that site is a load of bull. the standard bosch fuel prex valve fitted to my motorbike has such fast response that when measuring the pressure of the fuel rail the needle of the pressure gauge oscillates at the same frequency of the...
what is it and what it does?
Quote: Originally posted by markh72 on 09 March 2004
<FONT face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size=3>I have a Clio 16v 1.2 and im trying to fit a Power Boost Valve, the instructions dont make any sense?, has anybody fitted one of these ? got any...
nonsense. even WRC use power steering. besides, it has progressive action and does very little at speed
powerful FWD need power steering
Quote: Originally posted by RT_beast on 09 March 2004
heh id definetly agree with that one...Non PAS all the way..Its not so bad anyway if your tyres...
not sure about the clio, but in all the vehicles i am familiar with if the inlet air is colder this will make the ECU inject slightly more fuel to compensate for denser charge, but wont change ignition timing
usually ignition maps are set by rpm/MAP or perhaps rpm/throttle
Quote...
buddy, changing injectors will change the amount of fuel injected, and unless you have modified the engine so that more air is aspirated, i dont see the advantage of going to a higher flow rate. the cossie has a turbocharger, and the amount of air induced can be changed considerably, while in...
i heard good things of the original ones.
as for changing them, it is not hard but u need a tool to push the pistin back into the caliper. in alternative big pliers work. open the filler cap to push the pistons and watch for overflowing fluid, it will eat up the paint
be careful, brakes...
i doubt holes and groves will improve the braking
get some good pads and a DOT5.1 brake fluid, even though DOT 4 should be enough for road use. must be changed once a year. if u have old fluid change it. braided hoses will be nice but dont improve braking, just the pedal feel a little.
to...
a rack costs at least 500 euro so there must be something wrong there
Quote: Originally posted by BRUN on 09 March 2004
well the rack and new track rod ends was £88 but thats with a £15 surcharge, there fittin the rack for about £40 for me, puttin some pads on aswell so possibly £50-£60...
check the rubber joint in the steering column, thats probably thre cause of "spongy" steering (very common in clio)
as for the clunk and steering under power/liftoff, the clunk definitely indicates something sloppy in the suspension, still doubt about the faulty rack.
Quote: Originally...
i seriously doubt it could be the rack. it is pretty easy to check a steering rack, and it should last more than the car. i have seen very few broken racks and anyway that wouldnt be the symphtom. a worn rack would just have steering play but no tendency to steer underacceleration/liftoff...
how much suspension travel is left lowering 60mm?
Quote: Originally posted by Fred2001Dynamic on 04 March 2004
Quote: Originally posted by crono33 on 03 March 2004if u are looking for better handling i wouldnt lower more than 30-35mm. if manufacturers build cars like that is for a reason...
if u are looking for better handling i wouldnt lower more than 30-35mm. if manufacturers build cars like that is for a reason. more than that and the ride quality will be much worse. also, 60mm or more will turn the car in a bump-stop special. harsh ride and dangerous on bumpy roads...
i suspect a light FWD turbo car is totally useless on 1/4 mile
Quote: Originally posted by tom-m on 03 March 2004
Next year me and my bro are thinking of finding a mint (exterior) williams or valver high miles on it and recon the old engine and turbo it. Strip it out completely! Take it on...
i am sure they produce high quality stuff but i would be surprised if as much as 3% of the people on this forum would have any clue at all on how to set up a suspension.
personally, i declare all my ignorance on the matter.
Quote: Originally posted by dogmaul on 02 March 2004
crono yes...