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Cage is in. Just been slimming down the bottom dash before I refit it. I'll save that for another day. Lots of wire management and switches/buttons to relocate too - fiddly s**t. 👍
The cambelt job is £600+ so add that onto the asking price. If it's got no history I wouldn't bother though, go and drive another one (good example) and see if it feels better. If it doesn't, get something else :D
I'm not totally sure if I need any other bits to go with the cams, I'll ask the mechanic before hand to be sure!
197 cams with matched inlets, 182 manifold and cat back + decat/sports cat gets around 190bhp from what ive read. After mapping of course. Some get mid 190's 👍
Dropped the car off to have the cage fitted today, pick it up next weekend.
Also got some 197 cams so I'm spending my afternoon cleaning them up, the toilet paper I bought recently is coming in handy :P
Do the easy, free stuff like spare wheel, rear seats, carpet etc, and then spend money on the important stuff like pads, brake fluid and some track days.
If you get the bug you will probably want to strip it more, if you don't then you can chuck stuff back in and no harm done.
Yeah I knew about having to disconnect it when not in use. I don't have a switch fitted yet so ill just be diconnecting the negative terminal for now. Can't this being an issue other than having no alarm.
Battery fitted, the car started so that's a win. Lets see how it goes from now on with drain etc.
Discovered some more french twatness too, lets put two earth points tucked out the way, right next to the headlight electric so it's impossible to get a spanner on. Genious.
Battery tray painted and ready to be fitted.
I painted the cup spolier but the end result was patchy and nothing like the original paint so I have revered back to the original spolier. Not too bothered as the brake light works in it and it's a tad lighter lol.
Was looking good at primer...
Yeah I used that tool above, the end of it split and bend out of shape on the first try. Maybe mine were just really bad but they needed some brute force. Hopefully yours will be easier :)
Oh also, you can wedge something behind the base of the wiper arm (I used a spanner) and hit the end of the threaded spindle (with the nut on to protect the threads) and that can seperate the arm from the spindle. Again, be very careful of the windscreen.
Soak in WD-40 for a long time and use the special penetrating stuff. I tried a wiper arm removal tool but it just broke into pieces within seconds. You have to tap them with a hammer to loosen them up and then I used a bit of wood and a big spanner to lever them off. It was horrible, took ages...
Oh, one thing I wasn't sure on. I would be after the solid, adjustable top mounts and I noticed in the list there are rubber and also pillowball types. Are these both considered solid or just the pillowball types? Is there a difference in final price between the two? Thanks @Kev@KAM
Metal frame now cut to allow the rollcage to fit. Clearing out as much crap as I can along the way.
Does anyone have any pics or solutions of relocating the fuse box and UCH? Both are going to be in the way of the cage.
Finally, any tips to seperating the door wiring loom from the car loom...
Yeah I'm thinking repair. I think they used titanium paint instead of iceberg too, I just never really noticed because of how different iceberg looks in different light.
And yea I will defo be treating whatever I can when I get a chance to look at it properly (y)
There's no sign of it rusting on the inside in the same place as the outside. Tiny bit visible at the bottom corner on the inside though...
I'll take the skirts off when I have nothing else left to worry about :LOL:
I have two small areas of bubbling on the rear quarter panel but nothing serious, I'm startig to suspect there has maybe been a repair done in the past, the other side is spotless. Hard to be fussed about paint though when you have binned it in the gravel before :rolleyes: