(1)st gear wot rpm...

[akaboogie]

wots the most revs i can take my 172 cup in... (1)st & (2)scd gear befor changing up again....

cause i feel i have to take my cup up to around 5k-6k- when really giving it some away from the traffice light when some bigger car wonts to have a little race from pull off if you get wot i meen...........

 

[hipwell]

When the engines upto temp itl rev upto 7200, unless you've got an rs tuner map and then itl rev to 7800.

I prefere not to do it too high in first though as my traction control kicks in

 

[tom172cup]

the little shift light is ment to be the best time to shift up . if not just bounce it off the limiter a few times then change

 

[brisa4984]

the little shift light is ment to be the best time to shift up . if not just bounce it off the limiter a few times then change

no noob no .

 

[brisa4984]

pull off at 2.5k change at 6.5k

 

[Russ_16v]

wots the most revs i can take my 172 cup in... (1)st & (2)scd gear befor changing up again....

cause i feel i have to take my cup up to around 5k-6k- when really giving it some away from the traffice light when some bigger car wonts to have a little race from pull off if you get wot i meen...........

If you need to, it should rev to 7200 rpm when warm.

When the engines upto temp itl rev upto 7200, unless you've got an rs tuner map and then itl rev to 7800.

I prefere not to do it too high in first though as my traction control kicks in

He wont have TC on a cup so no worries there

the little shift light is ment to be the best time to shift up . if not just bounce it off the limiter a few times then change

The shift light is a gimic, nothing more.

 

[theduck]

As said above on 1*2s the shift light is more of a 'You should have changed gear by now, you better do it quick or you'll hit the limiter' light

On 197s and 200s though it actually is a shift light, mainly because peak power comes so late.

 

[tom172cup]

oh i see bit pointless then

 

[akaboogie]

yeah first think i all ways do is make sure she up to ..(temp).. keeping revs under 3k if she cold.....

also...few other thing i would like to ask.

right now when i got my 172 cup around three or four monts ago i had to go all the way to wales to pick it up and that was some 148 miles from were i live as im in london but i like the car so whent up ther and picked it up....so i had a nuff time to get the feel of wot it drove like as i had to drive all the way back of course and drove really nice and i love the feeling of that little kick you get when in second at around 5k (so yeah i had that kick at 5k) now when i got it home i left it parked up for a week cause it was time for cam belt to be change as it had got to 72000 miles...so i booked it into the garage to have it done..now when i whent to pick my 172 cup from the garage i was all happy that now i could now drive my new car. so got it all nice and warmed up as i all way do befor giving it some toe and just to see if it was still performing as it did befor i put it into the garage to get belt......and yes it was still pulling nice in ever gear and still had the 5krpm kick in second....but as the weeks have gone on it feels like ther aint no kick at all around the 5krpm..

cheers for any help here.....

 

[Fred@BTM]

^i assume a "normal" garage changed the cambelt? (ie not a specialist or a dealership)

 

[Russ_16v]

You read my mind fred, time to take it to a specialist to get the timing checked

 

[akaboogie]

i took it to the garage i allways been too...yeah i no i no. should of taken it to a renault specialist man...

but like i said it still had the kick when i got it back tho...so thay must of done it right i would of fort...or has some think gone wrong here..

also the car still pulls and drives really well tho......just first gear seem too have a kick at 5k....not second..why this.

 

[Fred@BTM]

have you driven a different car to compare it to? because in your opinion you feel it to be ok but it might not be

i'd get the timing checked out by a SPECIALIST, not a "normal" garage

 

[Dave..]

have you driven a different car to compare it to? because in your opinion you feel it to be ok but it might not be

i'd get the timing checked out by a SPECIALIST, not a "normal" garage

Knows it.

Timing will be out

 

[akaboogie]

yeah fred@btm...think im gonna have to go to jms tuning as thay are only 5min from mum house . any one no wot jms tuning will do to see if the timing is out..(i.e test drive it or wot).

so if the timing is out would any damage have been done to my engine at all....also if timing is out and thay re- time it will i see a better different in performance wise....any one no how how long and how much it is at jms tunig...

 

[DrR]

Personally I don't accelerate hard or go above 4k in 1st, as i Value my gearbox.

 

[Marc.]

Not sure what JMS would do, but I can personally vouch for them not taking your car out and thrashing it, if that's what you're worried about. If you're lucky, and go there, you'll see their cars, and you'll understand that they'll have no interest in taking yours out

 

[Vicky.]

Did someone say bounce off the limiter? :dead: When I race mine (drag days) I usually change at around 7.8k well at least I guess where that is roughly as my counter only goes up to 7k lol.

If you get a remap it'll get raised from standard.

 

[Jamesstone]

Timing sounds suspect, We check timing just as any other specialist would - Locking tools, If they don't go in then get ready for tears, LOL at the rag it round the block....

With regards on changing gear at set RPM then that really depends on where you make your power, with the RS2/cams fitted on mine it makes peak horse power at around 7,100rpm so its usable where's a stock 172/182 will tale off after 6,500rpm

 

[Brett]

I used to use up to 7100ish in 1st and 2nd to take advantage of the low ratio then change up at 6.5 in 3rd and 4th. seemed to work for me.

 

[akaboogie]

looks like jms tuning it is then.....

 

[st3ve]

Timing sounds suspect, We check timing just as any other specialist would - Locking tools, If they don't go in then get ready for tears, LOL at the rag it round the block....

With regards on changing gear at set RPM then that really depends on where you make your power, with the RS2/cams fitted on mine it makes peak horse power at around 7,100rpm so its usable where's a stock 172/182 will tale off after 6,500rpm

Why should he get ready for tears?

It's a simple enough job to adjust the timing.

 

[akaboogie]

so if the timing is out how much is it to put back.....any one no.....

 

[Fred@BTM]

well its a tricky one to call as technically your warranty is with the people that did the previous work, so in other words in order for me to touch it and warrant my work i'd request a new cambelt kit, but if you didn't want that then no probelm, but if it were to fail 12months down the line it wouldn't be my problem!

 

[st3ve]

circa £100 to check and adjust timing, as long as everything is timed up correctly and the kit is new there shouldn't be any problems.

 

[Fred@BTM]

^for a non AC car yes

but as i said if it were to envolve retensioning/adjusting an old belt = no warranty!

 

[st3ve]

^for a non AC car yes

but as i said if it were to envolve retensioning/adjusting an old belt = no warranty!

What about the warranty from the place that carried out the work originally? Or from the company that makes the parts?

 

[Fred@BTM]

well the place that did the work orignally should've known what they were doing in the first place, and the parts manufactures will kindly say get fucked if the belt has been tensioned/retensioned incorrectly and/or corrected by a secondary garage

 

[akaboogie]

yeah but it had a new cam belt kit fitted around three-four months ago. so i would of fort it would be o.k to just lossen the belt re-time and retension again.....so wot your saying is if jms re-time it if it needed then it snaped then...then ther no warranty..

any one had ther cam belt re-time and retension again... wot is the chances of it failing...

 

[st3ve]

yeah but it had a new cam belt kit fitted around three-four months ago. so i would of fort it would be o.k to just lossen the belt re-time and retension again.....so wot your saying is if jms re-time it if it needed then it snaped then...then ther no warranty..

any one had ther cam belt re-time and retension again... wot is the chances of it failing...

Nil tbh as long as it's done by a specialist.

So as long as it's timed up and tensioned correctly by a specialist it should be fine. Just no warranty.

 

[Fred@BTM]

what's not to say its been over tensioned already and worn to f**k? I've seen 500mile old belts that look like they've done 20K due to incorrect tensioning (so called "specialists" did those )

no one in their right mind would retension a belt, lesson 1 in mechanics school, NEVER do it

this is me personally i'm on about here, i wouldn't warrant the work adjusting the existing setup, for the sake of £120 for a belt kit i'm not risking facing a £4K bill just because it saves the customer a few quid, no chance! that's an easy way to bury myself!

 

[akaboogie]

so cant you just buy an other belt instend of buying the hole kit....must be able to...

also if i take it to jms and it needs retensioning are you saying they wont retension the old belt....

 

[Fred@BTM]

that's entirley up to them what they do, yes you can just change the belt on its own, but again, NFC would i do that either

 

[st3ve]

lol, I just don't get how people get it wrong in the first place.

 

[Fred@BTM]

i do face palm on a regular basis, if i spy tipex, i give up and go to the pub

 

[akaboogie]

emmm, i no i no,......so say if the timing is out..(WITCH I DONT NO YET FOR SURE)..and jms re-time back right then cant i go back to the other garage and make them pay for it.....cause thay must not have a f**king clue how to do timing so iv had to take it some were esle to be done properly....

like get a bill of proff from jms that to say thay had re-timed it....

 

[mikekean]

Rev it nearly to the limiter. Although the power will drop off towards the end of the rev range you still need to rev it out. This is so the engine is still on cam when you change to the next gear. If you shift earlier the engine wont be pulling so hard when you come back on the power.

 

[Fred@BTM]

well you'd have to argue the case, and i'd doubt you'd get far, they'll just say it was fine when it left them and you'd struggle to prove it

that's the problem with this trade, its too easy to rip people off/slip your way out of c**k ups etc etc, very annoying for the honest people in the trade! i'm having to bring back 10 cars because i was supplied dodgy cambelt kits, i could pretend it never happened and fob the punters off, but i'd never do that, all 10 cars will be coming back in for new cambelt kits at my expense and i will then argue it out with the supplier

if you'd had read this forum first you woudn't be (possibly as its yet to be confirmed) in this situation now

 

[akaboogie]

mikekean...im really not a fan of pussing my car to the limiter i just dont think it dose the engine any good...may take it to around 6k-7k bet f**K redlining it man....i no these cars can take a raging but f**King hell.

 

[Fred@BTM]

you bought a 172cup and you don't want to push it??? The limiter is there for a reason, to stop you doing any damage, so its perfectly safe for you to hit the limiter, these engines can do 8000rpm with a remap no bother


go neck some whiskey, headbutt a wall and man the f**k up