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MRBILLYUK
ClioSport Club Member
FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
I wouldn't bother with the torque settings for the bolts . Just tighten them up really tight and put some loctite thread lock compound on the thread .
If your changing the discs i'd change the pads at the same time if they are worn and give the caliper a good clean . Undo the caliper guide bolts (2) with a 13mm spanner . Plus a small adjustable to stop it spinning when you crack it open . Take the top of the brake fluid reservoir , put some rags around it just in case it should spill over .
Remove the caliper mounting bracket ( 13mm bolts ) and pads . Give it all a good clean , wire brush etc ....
Now push the piston back into the caliper enough so you can refit new , thicker pads . Just used a piece of wood so you don't damage anything .You might need to crack open the bleed nipple slightly .
Now continue with the rest of the caliper as below .
Front disc - 17mm spanner to remove the caliper mounting bolts (2) , tie the caliper up out of the way , i use the suspension spring . 1 sometimes 2 torx screws hold the disc in place .
The disc can be rusted on so a big hammer and give it a few good , hard whacks .Clean up the hub with some wet n dry and smear some copper grease on it so its easier to get off next time .
When you fit the the new discs , spin it round and check if it looks ok , no runout , if it looks like its not seated properly move the disc round 180 degrees until your happy it looks ok .Just use the torx screws you took out of the disc to hold it in place .
Now refit the caliper , put some copper grease on the back of the pads ( make sure NONE goes on the face of the pads and disc ) and caliper mounting bracket , this is where you need to make sure the piston is far enough back into the caliper to allow for the new , thicker pads .
Don't forget loctite thread compound on the threads . Push the caliper mounting bracket down onto the new pads . There will be some resistance as the pads have anti rattle springs fitted on the back , just force em down and refit the 13mm bolts .
I forgot to mention you should degrease the new discs , with parafin or degreaser .Also you will have to remove the engine cover if you have one to gain access to the brake fluid reservoir .
Now just bleed the brakes , keeping an eye on the brake fluid level and top up as required .
Sorry if it doesn't make too much sense , i've just got outta bed and still half asleep ,lol
If your changing the discs i'd change the pads at the same time if they are worn and give the caliper a good clean . Undo the caliper guide bolts (2) with a 13mm spanner . Plus a small adjustable to stop it spinning when you crack it open . Take the top of the brake fluid reservoir , put some rags around it just in case it should spill over .
Remove the caliper mounting bracket ( 13mm bolts ) and pads . Give it all a good clean , wire brush etc ....
Now push the piston back into the caliper enough so you can refit new , thicker pads . Just used a piece of wood so you don't damage anything .You might need to crack open the bleed nipple slightly .
Now continue with the rest of the caliper as below .
Front disc - 17mm spanner to remove the caliper mounting bolts (2) , tie the caliper up out of the way , i use the suspension spring . 1 sometimes 2 torx screws hold the disc in place .
The disc can be rusted on so a big hammer and give it a few good , hard whacks .Clean up the hub with some wet n dry and smear some copper grease on it so its easier to get off next time .
When you fit the the new discs , spin it round and check if it looks ok , no runout , if it looks like its not seated properly move the disc round 180 degrees until your happy it looks ok .Just use the torx screws you took out of the disc to hold it in place .
Now refit the caliper , put some copper grease on the back of the pads ( make sure NONE goes on the face of the pads and disc ) and caliper mounting bracket , this is where you need to make sure the piston is far enough back into the caliper to allow for the new , thicker pads .
Don't forget loctite thread compound on the threads . Push the caliper mounting bracket down onto the new pads . There will be some resistance as the pads have anti rattle springs fitted on the back , just force em down and refit the 13mm bolts .
I forgot to mention you should degrease the new discs , with parafin or degreaser .Also you will have to remove the engine cover if you have one to gain access to the brake fluid reservoir .
Now just bleed the brakes , keeping an eye on the brake fluid level and top up as required .
Sorry if it doesn't make too much sense , i've just got outta bed and still half asleep ,lol
Focus ST
That sounds pretty straight forward.
Q. The larger nut in the middle of the disc, I take it that doesn't need touching??
If that is the case, what does the wheel attach to?? Can't be just the disc with 4 bolts??
I bet I'm missing something???? LOL !!!!
Is it the same for the rear discs??
Q. The larger nut in the middle of the disc, I take it that doesn't need touching??
If that is the case, what does the wheel attach to?? Can't be just the disc with 4 bolts??
I bet I'm missing something???? LOL !!!!
Is it the same for the rear discs??
MRBILLYUK
ClioSport Club Member
FF Jeden Osiem Dwa
Gweebs said:That sounds pretty straight forward.
Q. The larger nut in the middle of the disc, I take it that doesn't need touching??
If that is the case, what does the wheel attach to?? Can't be just the disc with 4 bolts??
I bet I'm missing something???? LOL !!!!
Is it the same for the rear discs??
Don't touch the larger nut in the middle . Your 4 wheel bolts go through the disc into the hub and attach it .
Rear discs are alot more expensive . Make sure they come with the wheel bearing already pressed in and the abs ring fitted .
Check out fubars guide on the rears :
http://www.fubarnet.com/rear_discs.html
A quick note on the difference on the pistons front pistons push in , rear pistons wind in as per fubars guide .
