This is the best thread I have ever read. @CamMoreRon , you are my hero
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205 Endurance Racer Prototype
- Thread starter CamMoreRon
- Start date
182cup & 172 racecar
Still very nice. 
Knuckles
ClioSport Admin
This is properly epic.
Utter engineering p**n.
I can't wait for more updates!
Utter engineering p**n.
I can't wait for more updates!
172 Cup
Ah man this made me wince! :fearscream:
I've tried a bunch of things to stop it happening but it just seems to be inevitable from time to time.
182cup & 172 racecar
Duct tape around your sleeves.
172 Cup
I have a similar solution for the sweat vs spatter / arc burn problem in summer: chop the sleeves off an old denim jacket and slip them over your arms.
Added bonus is you have a sweet jacket for ultra white trash chic. :grin:
Added bonus is you have a sweet jacket for ultra white trash chic. :grin:
172 Cup
Happy new year everyone!
In the last update I mentioned the struts didn't fit the uprights.. I spent a bit of time messing around with various attempts to spread the strut brackets apart, and eventually the bodyshop next door loaned me their Porta Power which did the trick in about 20 mins!
Here's the problem I had - the upright is 26mm wide but the strut brackets only have a gap of ~25mm!
So I carefully used the scissor jaws to open the gap up a little..
Which then gave me enough clearance to fit!
So I wasted no time in getting the corners put together!
Really happy with all that! Pics are a bit dark, but hopefully you can see everything!
It's now so close to going on the ground.. I just need to get the hubs drilled to take Peugeot wheels, sort out track rod ends, then get a set of tyres! Still a long list of little jobs left, but it's getting close to the end now. :beers:
In the last update I mentioned the struts didn't fit the uprights.. I spent a bit of time messing around with various attempts to spread the strut brackets apart, and eventually the bodyshop next door loaned me their Porta Power which did the trick in about 20 mins!
Here's the problem I had - the upright is 26mm wide but the strut brackets only have a gap of ~25mm!
So I carefully used the scissor jaws to open the gap up a little..
Which then gave me enough clearance to fit!
So I wasted no time in getting the corners put together!
Really happy with all that! Pics are a bit dark, but hopefully you can see everything!
It's now so close to going on the ground.. I just need to get the hubs drilled to take Peugeot wheels, sort out track rod ends, then get a set of tyres! Still a long list of little jobs left, but it's getting close to the end now. :beers:
Are they Clio 1*2 hub carriers?
172 Cup
Been a while since I updated this.. sorry!
Last week I did a load of little jobs like gearbox mounts, oil tank mounts, some straps for the fuel tank.. A bunch of stuff that I completely forgot to take pictures of, so this week I'll try and make up for it a bit.
I've stripped the car back to the frame so I can turn it over, ready to fit the floor & firewalls, so in the meantime I rebuilt the engine & gearbox. The engine should look pretty familiar to you lot, as it's a lightly tuned F4R putting out 192bhp. I think I mentioned earlier in the build that I had to strip it down in a panic after we found the gearbox was in poor condition, but thankfully everything was OK. It's been used for measurements up to now, so it's about time I put it back together.
After cleaning everything in the parts washer I got started with the build.
Main bearings were in really good condition, so went back in (lots of MPZ assembly lube - awesome stuff)
In goes the crank..
I took the opportunity to fit some ARP rod bolts, because it seemed like a smart thing to do.
Then in go the pistons..
Aaaaand.. cut to TONNES OF SWEARING because the shitty Laser piston ring compressor I opted to use was a piece of s**t and getting it to tighten up enough round the piston was nearly impossible. I knew there was a reason I threw my old one away - because they're rubbish and I wanted to get a proper ARP compressor next time! Oh well..
Apparently I was so irritated at that point that I pretty much stopped taking pictures and just put the thing back together. So.. here's the last pic I took, just before clamping the cam cover down.
Sorry about that! 😅
Everything did go back together just fine from there, though. The cam locking tool I made when taking it apart worked a treat, so it's all timed up spot-on and almost ready to go. The sump is off being machined with some extra holes for the bellhousing, so that should come back tomorrow and it can be finished.
Another update to follow in a sec..
Last week I did a load of little jobs like gearbox mounts, oil tank mounts, some straps for the fuel tank.. A bunch of stuff that I completely forgot to take pictures of, so this week I'll try and make up for it a bit.
I've stripped the car back to the frame so I can turn it over, ready to fit the floor & firewalls, so in the meantime I rebuilt the engine & gearbox. The engine should look pretty familiar to you lot, as it's a lightly tuned F4R putting out 192bhp. I think I mentioned earlier in the build that I had to strip it down in a panic after we found the gearbox was in poor condition, but thankfully everything was OK. It's been used for measurements up to now, so it's about time I put it back together.
After cleaning everything in the parts washer I got started with the build.
Main bearings were in really good condition, so went back in (lots of MPZ assembly lube - awesome stuff)
In goes the crank..
I took the opportunity to fit some ARP rod bolts, because it seemed like a smart thing to do.
Then in go the pistons..
Aaaaand.. cut to TONNES OF SWEARING because the shitty Laser piston ring compressor I opted to use was a piece of s**t and getting it to tighten up enough round the piston was nearly impossible. I knew there was a reason I threw my old one away - because they're rubbish and I wanted to get a proper ARP compressor next time! Oh well..
Apparently I was so irritated at that point that I pretty much stopped taking pictures and just put the thing back together. So.. here's the last pic I took, just before clamping the cam cover down.
Sorry about that! 😅
Everything did go back together just fine from there, though. The cam locking tool I made when taking it apart worked a treat, so it's all timed up spot-on and almost ready to go. The sump is off being machined with some extra holes for the bellhousing, so that should come back tomorrow and it can be finished.
Another update to follow in a sec..
172 Cup
Update 2/2..
It's a nice change to just put something together, rather than make it entirely from scratch, and I enjoyed building the engine so much that I decided to rebuild the gearbox too!
Here's the first box full of bits.. thankfully I got a manual from Sadev, but as you'll see it wasn't the best.
First up was the primary shaft - nothing too complicated.
Then the secondary shaft - hmm..
The manual doesn't help much tbh.
Actually it's a fairly simple job, just repeating a sequence for 3 pairs of gears. Each one has an inner bearing race, a needle roller bearing, and the gear. Then between the two gears there's a dog ring and hub.
6th goes on first (above reverse) and has the race and bearing inside.
Then there's the dog ring, which engages the gear, and the hub which it slides along to select one of the pair.
And then on top of that goes the next gear, bearing, and race.
Repeat x 3.
Then the primary and secondary shaft go into the case, along with the gear selection barrel. Not a simple job, as the manual recommends heating the case to 120Deg before the secondary shaft will fit! I stuck the case in front of my space heater for an hour or so while assembling the shafts and thankfully it went in with little fuss!
That was all fairly simple tbh. What got me stuck was tightening up 2 bolts!
Both shafts are free to rotate in the box, and Sadev use a special tool to lock them which I don't have, so I had to make something up! The secondary is torqued up to 180Nm, so it'd have to be something more substantial than a wedged screwdriver.
Here's my Heath Robinson solution to stopping the shafts turning - took a while to set up but worked nicely.
Last thing to do was assemble the diff. Again, really useful diagram. Thanks Sadev. :neutral:
Then I got a bit carried away and put the whole thing back together, so no more pics. Sorry! 😅
It's a nice change to just put something together, rather than make it entirely from scratch, and I enjoyed building the engine so much that I decided to rebuild the gearbox too!
Here's the first box full of bits.. thankfully I got a manual from Sadev, but as you'll see it wasn't the best.
First up was the primary shaft - nothing too complicated.
Then the secondary shaft - hmm..
The manual doesn't help much tbh.
Actually it's a fairly simple job, just repeating a sequence for 3 pairs of gears. Each one has an inner bearing race, a needle roller bearing, and the gear. Then between the two gears there's a dog ring and hub.
6th goes on first (above reverse) and has the race and bearing inside.
Then there's the dog ring, which engages the gear, and the hub which it slides along to select one of the pair.
And then on top of that goes the next gear, bearing, and race.
Repeat x 3.
Then the primary and secondary shaft go into the case, along with the gear selection barrel. Not a simple job, as the manual recommends heating the case to 120Deg before the secondary shaft will fit! I stuck the case in front of my space heater for an hour or so while assembling the shafts and thankfully it went in with little fuss!
That was all fairly simple tbh. What got me stuck was tightening up 2 bolts!
Both shafts are free to rotate in the box, and Sadev use a special tool to lock them which I don't have, so I had to make something up! The secondary is torqued up to 180Nm, so it'd have to be something more substantial than a wedged screwdriver.
Here's my Heath Robinson solution to stopping the shafts turning - took a while to set up but worked nicely.
Last thing to do was assemble the diff. Again, really useful diagram. Thanks Sadev. :neutral:
Then I got a bit carried away and put the whole thing back together, so no more pics. Sorry! 😅
Last edited:
172 Cup
I don't tbh! 😅
Never built one of those 'boxes before and I probably wouldn't have been able to do it without the manual - even though the pics were illegible it really helped! The boxes are made to be build / rebuilt as quickly and easily as possible, so even though it looks like a daunting pile of cogs, everything has its place and it's actually not that bad a job.
Knuckles
ClioSport Admin
Truly epic.
My hat is well and truly off to you.
If you come to csf (please bring this!) I'm getting you a beer.
My hat is well and truly off to you.
If you come to csf (please bring this!) I'm getting you a beer.
Fair f**king play mate!
You've certainly got bigger balls than me to attempt that with nothing more then a set of shitty mechano instructions! [emoji23]
Top work bud, can't wait to see the finished project, but the journey is half the fun!
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
You've certainly got bigger balls than me to attempt that with nothing more then a set of shitty mechano instructions! [emoji23]
Top work bud, can't wait to see the finished project, but the journey is half the fun!
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
172 Cup
Definitely the best way to describe them!
I'll try but can't promise anything. 😅
172 Cup
Update 1/2: I've been building up to a big update the past week and a bit, so I'll need to catch up a bit!
First, I got the sump back from having a couple of M8 holes put in the end where it bolts to the bellhousing. There were some holes originally, but due to the bigger flywheel they had to be moved! I got that back last Monday, so put the baffles etc back in and finished the engine build off.
This bit was a pain to seal!
Then I had a couple more little jobs on the spaceframe, such as a rear strut brace, a backstay diagonal, and door bar gussets.
Then I could mount the thing on my chassis spit, and get it off the jig!
The frame could then be flipped over so I could weld up the bottom - much easier than trying to MIG upside-down!
And that's the chassis frame pretty much finished!
First, I got the sump back from having a couple of M8 holes put in the end where it bolts to the bellhousing. There were some holes originally, but due to the bigger flywheel they had to be moved! I got that back last Monday, so put the baffles etc back in and finished the engine build off.
This bit was a pain to seal!
Then I had a couple more little jobs on the spaceframe, such as a rear strut brace, a backstay diagonal, and door bar gussets.
Then I could mount the thing on my chassis spit, and get it off the jig!
The frame could then be flipped over so I could weld up the bottom - much easier than trying to MIG upside-down!
And that's the chassis frame pretty much finished!
172 Cup
Update 2/2:
The next job on the list is the floor - starting with the main section under the cockpit. I didn't want to go round grinding all the welds smooth on the underside, because it's a PITA to do and also removes some strength, so instead I used some 45mm wide strips of 3mm aluminium to space the floor down enough to clear them all.
Then cut out the main floor section from 3mm sheet. (BTW those sheets are 1.5m x 3m and not easy to shift about!)
Then drilled a whole load of holes..
I wanted to use countersunk rivnuts to secure the floor. After about 40 of them I started to regret that decision!
The sheet is then secured with (LOTS OF) 6mm countersunk socket screws. It'll also be bonded & sealed once the frame is powder coated and the final assembly comes together.
My arms are absolutely killing me, but the result is worth it!
Really happy with how it looks! It's tight as a drum, too. I'm gonna go lie down for a bit as my arms are about to fall off.
The next job on the list is the floor - starting with the main section under the cockpit. I didn't want to go round grinding all the welds smooth on the underside, because it's a PITA to do and also removes some strength, so instead I used some 45mm wide strips of 3mm aluminium to space the floor down enough to clear them all.
Then cut out the main floor section from 3mm sheet. (BTW those sheets are 1.5m x 3m and not easy to shift about!)
Then drilled a whole load of holes..
I wanted to use countersunk rivnuts to secure the floor. After about 40 of them I started to regret that decision!
The sheet is then secured with (LOTS OF) 6mm countersunk socket screws. It'll also be bonded & sealed once the frame is powder coated and the final assembly comes together.
My arms are absolutely killing me, but the result is worth it!
Really happy with how it looks! It's tight as a drum, too. I'm gonna go lie down for a bit as my arms are about to fall off.
Knuckles
ClioSport Admin
Amazing.
Is this getting a huge splitter/spoiler/diffuser to compliment the flat floor?
What are you doing about strengthening floor where the driver and passenger will sit/apply their weight?
Is this getting a huge splitter/spoiler/diffuser to compliment the flat floor?
What are you doing about strengthening floor where the driver and passenger will sit/apply their weight?
172 Cup
I have an original T16 spoiler for the back! The front will be getting a splitter and some dive-planes, similar to the original.
There'll be kick-plates on top of the frame for the driver / passenger to rest their feet on. I should have some pics of that lot by the end of the week if it all goes well.
There'll be kick-plates on top of the frame for the driver / passenger to rest their feet on. I should have some pics of that lot by the end of the week if it all goes well.
NorthloopCup
ClioSport Moderator
Sterling work! I always look forward to updates in this thread, and once again, it's delivered!
I cannot wait to see the finished article now.
Regards the arm strength, I find copious amounts of wanking really helps the job along. 😂
I cannot wait to see the finished article now.
Regards the arm strength, I find copious amounts of wanking really helps the job along. 😂
Jekyll
ClioSport Club Member
Your welding skills are amazing.
This project/your skills in general are super amazing.
Love this!
This project/your skills in general are super amazing.
Love this!
K_McDermott
ClioSport Club Member
Megane 230 r26
Updates epic as always can't wait to see this finished [emoji108]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
172 Cup
Yeah, the frame and suspension were all designed with CAD software.
I realise I haven't updated this for a couple of weeks now.. I'm trying to get the car ready for a test session on 25th Feb, so haven't had much time to keep this updated. I'll get something up one evening this week, as it's been a while and quite a lot has happened!
I realise I haven't updated this for a couple of weeks now.. I'm trying to get the car ready for a test session on 25th Feb, so haven't had much time to keep this updated. I'll get something up one evening this week, as it's been a while and quite a lot has happened!
172 Cup
I have a bit of time this evening, so here we go!
Last week was pretty much spent making the front firewalls and dashboard. Horrendously complicated for something that really doesn't look that complicated, but there's barely any space between the pedal box and the steering rack, and the coolant pipes still needed to find somewhere to go!
There's millimetres of space with the pedal box in the foremost position.
Coolant pipes will be going in the 100mm gap between the driver and passenger footwells, then down the centre of the car where the gap reduces to just 50mm! It also shares that space with the gear cable, the wiring loom, the fuel lines, and the brake & clutch lines, so there'll have to be lots of insulation!
The next job was checking the driveshafts.. CPS Drivelink made a dummy shaft which I installed then cycled the suspension through min - max travel to check plunge. I ran into a big problem here - TL;DR version is that there isn't enough plunge on the gearbox joint to cope with the range of articulation. The gearbox is the primary culprit, as it's made for a single-seater with the engine painted on the floor, so the diff output is very high and therefore so are the driveshaft angles in droop - much steeper than the Formula Renault would be.
The solution for now is to have the rear ride height non-adjustable - not what we wanted, but far from the worst outcome.
Anyway here's some pics of checking the shafts:
Full jounce + min ride height
Full rebound + max ride height
And checking plunge:
Then I sorted out the gear lever & cable..
Looks pretty manly!
Another update to follow..
Last week was pretty much spent making the front firewalls and dashboard. Horrendously complicated for something that really doesn't look that complicated, but there's barely any space between the pedal box and the steering rack, and the coolant pipes still needed to find somewhere to go!
There's millimetres of space with the pedal box in the foremost position.
Coolant pipes will be going in the 100mm gap between the driver and passenger footwells, then down the centre of the car where the gap reduces to just 50mm! It also shares that space with the gear cable, the wiring loom, the fuel lines, and the brake & clutch lines, so there'll have to be lots of insulation!
The next job was checking the driveshafts.. CPS Drivelink made a dummy shaft which I installed then cycled the suspension through min - max travel to check plunge. I ran into a big problem here - TL;DR version is that there isn't enough plunge on the gearbox joint to cope with the range of articulation. The gearbox is the primary culprit, as it's made for a single-seater with the engine painted on the floor, so the diff output is very high and therefore so are the driveshaft angles in droop - much steeper than the Formula Renault would be.
The solution for now is to have the rear ride height non-adjustable - not what we wanted, but far from the worst outcome.
Anyway here's some pics of checking the shafts:
Full jounce + min ride height
Full rebound + max ride height
And checking plunge:
Then I sorted out the gear lever & cable..
Looks pretty manly!
Another update to follow..
172 Cup
Update 2/2
Then this week I've been working on the exhaust. You can see in this pic there's a problem with the FR manifold we're using, as the outlet is basically where the driveshaft will be in full jounce. I assume this would have cleared with the long bellhousing & oil tank, but it doesn't with our 200mm shortened one.
So to get around that I rolled an offset cone to make the cat outlet as high as possible. The outlet also kinks out and upward slightly to help even more. In full jounce I have around 20mm room to the shaft, which is plenty.
Next step was to make some brackets for the silencer. I'm using the largest off-the-shelf silencer I could get hold of, this one is polished 304SS from and was a bargain from Birchills.
Then joining the two up, and making a tailpipe. I stuck the body on to get the outlet in the right place.
So that was that! Off to the welding bench to be TIG'd up!
And the finished job!
I have to say making exhausts is one of my favourite jobs.. welding stainless is so satisfying. :hearteyes:
Then this week I've been working on the exhaust. You can see in this pic there's a problem with the FR manifold we're using, as the outlet is basically where the driveshaft will be in full jounce. I assume this would have cleared with the long bellhousing & oil tank, but it doesn't with our 200mm shortened one.
So to get around that I rolled an offset cone to make the cat outlet as high as possible. The outlet also kinks out and upward slightly to help even more. In full jounce I have around 20mm room to the shaft, which is plenty.
Next step was to make some brackets for the silencer. I'm using the largest off-the-shelf silencer I could get hold of, this one is polished 304SS from and was a bargain from Birchills.
Then joining the two up, and making a tailpipe. I stuck the body on to get the outlet in the right place.
So that was that! Off to the welding bench to be TIG'd up!
And the finished job!
I have to say making exhausts is one of my favourite jobs.. welding stainless is so satisfying. :hearteyes:
172 Cup
PS - Is anyone else getting one random massive pic and the rest small, or is it just me? Not sure why it's happening.
Knuckles
ClioSport Admin
They're all working fine for me.
Cracking work! I genuinely look forward to these updates
shiftspark
ClioSport Club Member
R53 GR86
Awesome work :up:
K_McDermott
ClioSport Club Member
Megane 230 r26
Epic as always love that exhaust work [emoji7][emoji108]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk