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ABS light on and Solid immobiliser light on

Hi, Guys,

I have an ABS light on and the solid immobiliser light on.
I am guessing the immobiliser is on because of the ABS issue.

I have used a code reader icarsoft which gave me
DF006 - Front Right Hand Wheel Speed Sensor circuit.

I probed the wire to the sensor and I got a good earth but no power.
I checked the NSF wire and I got a good earth and 3.9V.

This is when the key is at position 2, Engine did not fire at all.

Should I now check the wiring from the ABS computer to the OSF harness and find any issues with the wire?

Whats the best way to get the ABS computer?
So checked the continuity between the ABS computer and the ABS sensor and I have good readings on both pins.

So I checked the new ABS sensor I have on the Left side just for kicks and rechecked the computer.

DF006 has gone but a new error has popped up

DF026: Front R/H wheel speed sensor circuit

Wow this code reader really has it for the right hand side sensor.

So I have ordered another ABS sensor as I checked the resistance of both of them and compared to the new one.
Well it seems they are both knackered.

if anyone needs to know what to order.

Bosch 0265 006 383

hopefully when I hook up both new sensors the ABS fault will disappear and the immobiliser light will disappear as well.
The second ABS sensor arrived last week so I thought Id connect them both up and see what happens.

Well the ABS light on the dash went out, Which was great. Only issue now is getting the old ones out.
I now have the change gear light on the dash flashing saying over revving.

Which is probably the resistance going back to the ABS computer as they are not picking up the teeth on the driveshaft.

I had a quick go on the n/s/f ABS bolt. F***in rounded...... Great.
Why cant anything be easy.

So ordered a Dremel 3000, and I am going to nick a groove in the bolt and fingers crossed I can get a wrench on it.
If it doesn't come out I am going to town with the Dremel on the sensor.... slice, dice and drill the thing out.


ClioSport Club Member
  Titanium 182
Good luck getting the sensor out from the top.

Ideally need to remove the hub and smash it out from underneath.

Don't worry about the bolt, the new sensor won't move anywhere.
So today, I had a plan...
Try and get the bolt out. If I cant do that. Destroy the sensor.

Plan A... try and get some bite on the bolt with gaffe tape. This failed almost immediately. Swiftly moved to plan B.

Plan B... use the Dremmel to nick a groove into the bolt. I can then get some bite on a flat head with a wrench. Well I got a good bite, but the bolt wouldn’t budge and then it split anyway. Time to get serious.

Plan C... Use the Dremmel to slice the top part of the sensor away so I can drill the neck out.

Well I managed to the get it all sliced away, but the drill just wasn’t touching it. Great.

so I ended up using a hammer 😁
I say hammer but it was more of a small flat head being smashed into the plastic casing.

well after an hour of bashing I finally got it out. Copper Greeced the new one and slipped it in minus a bolt. Il have to cable tie it and get the bolt drilled out and re-tapped.

just got to do the other side now 😪

oh and thought id give the ignition a go to see if the immobiliser light would go out.

NO. Still got the flashing shifter light. But I thought as much.


Talk about an anti climax.

Tidied up the area and got the new ASB sensor in.
Re-cleared all errors. (there were none)
tried the ignition..... and....

Red light of doom still there.
Also for reference the SERV light is still on and the ESP light is still on.

also the gear change/over revving light is flashing.

More diagnostics needed.
A mate popped over with an RS Tuner to try and further diagnose the issue but the dam thing wouldn't connect.
Just my luck.

So as the ESP light was still on. I read a few more posts on the forums.
The break light switch seemed to be a good bet, cheap to replace as well.

The other contenders were the steering angle sensor which isn't as cheap,

and double check the break fluid level, free.

So I decided to go for the break light switch. £11.

It arrived and I quickly swapped it over.

I have literally tried everything.

So this morning it is getting recovered.
and hopefully get some goodies put on the car.

Nice new coolant hoses a new coolant bottle, new thermostat and a low temp sensor.
Well now I know why the RS~Tuner wouldn't connect.
There is no injection computer to connect to.

Now it's a hunt for the broken wire.

Happy hunting!!!
Turns out it's not a wire
The Gen90 ECU has gone pop.

This was unexpected as it is only 11 months and only done 100 miles.
It had actually gone bang after 8 months as I checked in April.

Basically It was fitted in August, and then the Car was put away for the winter.
Come April the battery was dead so I took it out and charged it. Popped it back
in the car and Solid Red Immobiliser light.

No fuses blown.
Could a dying battery kill an ECU?
Answers are in.
ECU is fine.... thank god.
Wiring is good.

Turns out it’s the alternate fuse. I’m sure I checked all of them.

This locked out the ECU.
Once the fuse had been replaced the engine started and the alternator started to smoke.

A new alternate is a massive win over a new Gen90 ECU.

Just got to wait now to fit the new alternator.