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seems to do it most if I cruise at about 3k in 3rd and then take my foot of the accelerator is stays at about 2k even when I push the clutch in. If I rev the engine it stops.
May be something simple like a fray on the cable, ours was frayed at the pedal end which made the action a little sticky, I ignored it until it snapped on a dual carriageway when the wife was out with the kids! if you need to replace the cable, drop me a PM and Ill give you instructions, its a real bugger to do Im afraid. Failing that could be an engine management issue.
Whatever the thing is called that the speedo cable runs through there is a cone shaped plastic thingy that sometimes comes loose. When this falls down is takes up some slack in the cable so makes it idle at nearer 2k. Good for a cruise control, can drive with no feet on the pedals doing 30 mph in 4th. Could be that.
Should I put a bit of WD40 on the bit which moves in the engine bay (no idea what it is called). It is a like a little arm bit with the accelerator cable going through the top of it
the springs on the throttle body are quite strong so its rare for them to stick.you could grease the throttle pedal pivot point but its normally the cable that sticks.new cables are quite cheap.
Cable costs just £13, you certainly wouldnt be wanting to change one on the roadside, its the inner & outer cable together and the cable is tucked way down clipped on the bulkhead behind the engine and under the bulkhead soundproofing. Requires removal of the drivers side wheel and arch liner, removal of the engine cover and bulkhead sound proofing/panel to get at the cable clips and very slim arms to get down the back of the engine - its no quick & easy job IMO.
Yep, that is what I did in the end, but removed the wheel to give better access, you do need to remove the bulkhead lining to unclip the cable and then feed through and clip the new one, which is a frig - unless you know of a short cut Jay? its a shame you just cant replace the inner cable, be a 2 min job then.
some models you can just undo the top heatsheild bolts and prise the sheild forward enough to get your hands in and change the cable.dont think there is enough room to do that on a 172 though but havent changed one on a 172 for ages so i cant quite remember.
I had this prob a little while ago, mine was redlining itself, the next day the battery was flat so I changed it and it has been fine since. I didnt touch the cable at all, I posted this up and nobody knew why or how the battery could affect the revs but it did.
Oh interesting as I had installed some new amps in my boot the day before, also reset the battery by mistake, so could have been same problem, cheers mate
I had this problem a looooong time ago in my 5GTT and after some frantic excessive revving action and a short while of panic I discovered that the pedal was just catching on the ...erm... floor mats Ooops. Im sure this isnt the case with you George, but might be worth a look all the same