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accoustic valve - sensor near it



  Trophy #267
Ok been a slightly bit daft, few weeks ago i took my accoustic valve off on the end of the cold air filter as i was bored one sunday avvo. Blocked pipe with screw as advised via fred
Heard slight roar when thrashing bolox and felt sod all diff tbh but left off.

Had forgot all about it when i took it to renault today as was due in for tdc/crack sensor changing due to my starting problem, had phone call at dinner saying 'sorry sir we cant do it cos theres a bit missing from your car' - f00k.
Went down to pick up keys as have to refit and book in again (thankfully they didnt seem arsey and are happy to refit afterwards) and had a chat with one of the eng's.

I had wrongly assumed that the electrical connector was for actuating the valve bit it isnt its a sensor (nfi what for) that he claimed was throwing your engine out @ ~2k revs, he seemed mainly pissed as he'd wasted time on it as could do sfa as was showing a fault on ecu and could bypass it.

Thoughts pls as to what this does and what it effects, also how have those who have removed the valve attached the sensor or have you all just left it dangling or not connected at all ?
 
come on guys loads of people have done this what is the thing to do i am doing this shortly but a little worried in case of any problems as above cheers
 
cheers guys thanks for that response i want to remove this just really so i can get a nice air feed in stead but i dont want to cause any further issues cheers
 
  Clio 172 mk2
I know there is electrical gubbins down near the valve and I assumed this was just for the actuation of the valve itself.

There must be loads of people who have disconnected this without experiencing problems.
 
  Megane225FF
These are the piccies taken from clio trophy..
block up the end of the pipe in picture 2, as it goes to picture 1...
they've been discussing it over on that site in minute detail...
 
Last edited:
  Clio 182
Hi All,

Firstly I would like to say Hello. Ive owned a CLIO 182 for about 6months and loved every min of it. I bought a Pipercross Viper induction kit and have to say I am not impressed. Ive had fun routing the cold air feed and disconnecting the old cold air feed to the acoustic valve. I ended up taking the bumper and headlamp off to get at the valve, is there an easier way to get at this valve?
I did not disconnect the valve and am now thinking of doing so, would this increase the induction noise? The current cold air feed is just routed into the same space as the accoustic valve

Any comments,thoughts greatly appreciated?
 
  RenaultSport clio Trophy
Erm what sensor?

Electronic looms are for horn and the acuation of the valve

I reconnected the horn - it works

I taped up the loom that went to the valve

NO problems, going strong for 1 month now


Take a picture of what your talking about.
 
  182 Full Fat
Ritch_182 said:
Hi All,

Firstly I would like to say Hello. Ive owned a CLIO 182 for about 6months and loved every min of it. I bought a Pipercross Viper induction kit and have to say I am not impressed. Ive had fun routing the cold air feed and disconnecting the old cold air feed to the acoustic valve. I ended up taking the bumper and headlamp off to get at the valve, is there an easier way to get at this valve?
I did not disconnect the valve and am now thinking of doing so, would this increase the induction noise? The current cold air feed is just routed into the same space as the accoustic valve

Any comments,thoughts greatly appreciated?
Welcome mate, saw that this is your first post. Easiest way to access the acoustic valve is remove the wheel and the wheel arch liner, from that.(see link above) you can then easilt unscrew the bolts that hold the valve. VBy removing this valve is allows you to fit a much larger cold air feed, thus avioding so much heat soak thatgoes on under the bonnet.

Nick
 
  Trophy #267
TrophyDan said:
Erm what sensor?

Electronic looms are for horn and the acuation of the valve

I reconnected the horn - it works

I taped up the loom that went to the valve

NO problems, going strong for 1 month now


Take a picture of what your talking about.

your wrong m8 as I assumed the same thing, look a bit closer at it and you see that its actuated by pressure diff between the pipe which is blocked (fed from the inlet manifold so fred says) and the electrical connection is to a sensor there.
I agree having it removed made no difference to my driving but fact it was awol was throwing a fault code on the ecu (even if it has ne effect) and was causing an argument with renault.

my car was back yest for crank sensor changing and they tried to charge me as id removed the valve. they said because it forced the ecu to require reset i shud pay, but then they did neglect to tell me this and the fault has shown for ages with them and b4 i removed the valve so the manager begrudgingly gave me my keys back but did let me know that any future warranty work and any induction or exhaust ?? would be non warranty (I had recenlt had steering wheel + cat (which then turned into full exhaust) all done under warranty ) which he didnt know about and probably wouldnt have authourised :D

TBH i think a resistor ala airbag fix would be best when you remove it as this would not fault at all on the ecu
 
  Clio 172 mk2
I'd be asking them more about this 'sensor' and what it is actually for.....it doesn't sound like they are being that clear with you.
 
  megane 285 sport
i think it maybe an air bypass for when the throttle is closed, i had a renault bloke showing me this as a seperate part on the computer but it was a ph 1 throttle body on the screen, i told him it looked similar to the plug on the side of the acoustic valve
 
  RSC 182 Cup
When I removed my acoustic valve I left the actuation solenoid in there and blocked the port that goes to the acoustic valve with a cap. So electrically the ECU should see no difference.
 
  megane 285 sport
when i told the renault bloke about me car cutting off, he showed me what looked like that solenoid off the side of the valve and said it could be that, but i said i took it off and it was running fine ( so i think) before it went in and had other work done, if its an air bypass for when the throttle closed, could this be causing it to over fuel when the throttle is closed?
 
  Recaro'd 182
cool does anyone know the caf pipe diameter required to run to the standard air box and length require?

thanks
 


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