Alignment settings

[M.C..]

What do people recommend for track use but also driving to the track and limited road miles.

It’s been a while since I had the alignment done and these were my settings.
Camber was pretty much maxed out with camber bolts.

 

[Mr Underhill]

What suspension are you using?

 

[Mr Underhill]

I ran around -2.5 degrees on my 182 when I was using AST 5100s and planning to use it on track. Toe-out was 2mm on either side. The rear was untouched.

The original plan was to drive it back and forth to Croft, which is 30 miles each way. I never got around to taking it on the circuit as I then bought a dedicated circuit car. However, in the few hundred miles I did on the road—before putting the suspension back to factory - I wore the inside of my PS3s completely.

Now, I didn’t set the car up myself; Track Torque Racing did, and I think they messed it up.

My last circuit car also had AST 5100s and ran -2.2 degrees with 2mm toe-out. That was set up at Croft Circuit by a friend who runs a racing team. That car was perfect on both road and track. I used to use some 15-inch steelies with PS3 tyres back and forth to the track, and there was no real visible wear at all. I did six track days with that setup, driving back and forth to the circuit.

 

[Advikaz]

subjective to a degree (no pun intended).

 

[ldubl]

I prefer a bit more rear neg camber & rear toe nearer zero

Could put 60 minute (1 degree) camber shim in each side to get -2.5 all round

Could put 20 min shim Left toe, so then 10min toe in both sides , or could aim for nearer zero toe if you like the rear to be a bit more lively (or even slight toe out but will oversteer for fun in the wet!)

Doesn't always come out as calculated though! Adding more neg camber will increase neg toe, so without adding any toe shims you may end up with toe out on the right by adding neg camber

Ideally get it set up by a motorsport garage who can get it spot on with the string method, worth paying a bit more to get it perfect and without the hassle of getting new setting checked then likely will need to tweak again etc

 

[M.C..]

Currently on Gaz golds
Tbh I have not had loads of wear to the inside edge due to driving on the road

 

[Mr Underhill]

Currently on Gaz golds
Tbh I have not had loads of wear to the inside edge due to driving on the road

Yeah, -2.5 is a fairly aggressive setup for the road to be fair. And as I said, I think Track Torque messed up. -2.2 degrees marginally less aggressive with little to no noticeable wear from travelling back and forth, and it still performed well on track. What's a typical street setup? -1 to -1.5 degrees?

I used to run -3.5 degrees when I ran Spax controlled suspension, but that was so stiff (13kg front - 8kg rear) that it was undrivable on the roads. And, you need a proper racing tyre with a reinforced carcass to be able to handle the loads.

Just a case of finding that balance and what works for you.

 

[mumpy]

Alex tuned mine at -2.5 camber on the front for my road car, totally transformed it. Not checked wear yet but looking for every excuse to get a new set of PS5s.

 

[Ph1 Tom]

Currently on Gaz golds
Tbh I have not had loads of wear to the inside edge due to driving on the road

Do you know the spring rates? Have you done anything else to increase the roll resistance e.g arb, stiffened beam etc.

Also do you know the weight of the car?

 

[M.C..]

Do you know the spring rates? Have you done anything else to increase the roll resistance e.g arb, stiffened beam etc.

Also do you know the weight of the car?

Yeah spring rates are 525lb front springs and 400lb rears.
Whiteline ARB, PMS strut brace, strengthened wishbones with powerflex black bushes, car with me is approximately 1100kg