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amp's



  Za**** & Xr250R
Hi all i'm putting ice into my other car to make it more bearable and i need to know can i run a pair of 6x9's and a bass box from a 4/3/2 amp ???

Also the 6x9's are 200w and the bass box is 1100w can someone recomend an what "w" amp to power these ???

Cheer's Tony.
 
  Works...kind of...
200w 6x9's..? 1100w Sub?

Are we talking peak (marketing BS) power or RMS power here?
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
3 or 4 channel amp will suffice,why do you want to run a sub and 6x9s?youll only lose sound quality

matt

I manged to accuire the 6x9's and the bass box i'm under the impression the 6x9's will provide the volume and the bass box will provide the bass, how will i lose sound quality ???

Tony.

ps. had to look after my nephew to today so didn't get to the posty will post the cheque tomorow okies.
 
  09 GIXXER 750!!!
Just fit the sub and then upgrade the standard speakers no need for 6x9's. I have a 1200w kicker sub with new kenwood mids in the doors and rear panels and new tweeters. Sounds awesome!
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
Just fit the sub and then upgrade the standard speakers no need for 6x9's. I have a 1200w kicker sub with new kenwood mids in the doors and rear panels and new tweeters. Sounds awesome!

Really i do have replacement's for the standard speaker's but there only 140w will these be efficiant ???
 
  09 GIXXER 750!!!
Once you fit a sub you can have your mids and tweeters set up so they produce no bass therefore being able to crank them right up. Will be loud enough!!! 6x9's just add more weight with a heavy shelf. Pointless IMO
 
  Works...kind of...
That's what written on the speaker's 200w on the 6x9's and 1100w on the sub, i will go have a dix now !!!

That'll be peak then which shouldn't be taken note of.

RMS (true) power will be on the magnets.

And I agree about 6x9's + sub = bad idea. Unless the 6x9's are enclosed on the shelf the sub will eventually kill them.

6x9's will reproduce that same frequencies (although not as well) as the sub. So it's best to have one or t'other.

Get a decent pair of front components and use the amp on them and the sub.
 
  RIP MK2 PH1/1.4 16v Polo
iv got two 12" Vibe Blackairs powered by a 800watt Orion amp, sounds good even though the total RMS from both subs are 1100watt and peak is 2800watt. Got sony rear speakers with tweaters on them and Alpine E-type speakers in the front with tweaters on them, sounds good no need for 6x9's, only way they will be useful is when people sit in the rear and block my rear speakers
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
On the back of the 13cm speaker's it say's 140w peak power and 40w rated does this mean the speaker's are only 40w???
 
  RIP MK2 PH1/1.4 16v Polo
that means there always working at 40watts and now and agen peak at 140watts
 
  Works...kind of...
Depends on the amp.

A headunit will only give 15-20w from its internal amp.

I personally would do away with rear speakers and spend atleast a ton on a pair of front components.
 
  RIP MK2 PH1/1.4 16v Polo
iv got a Alpine headunit (4x45watt) gives enough power to all my door speakers, sounds good! the bass doesnt drown out the voice one bit.

i was thinking of getting a 300watt amp to run my door speakers but not to sure now.
 
  Works...kind of...
iv got a Alpine headunit (4x45watt) gives enough power to all my door speakers, sounds good! the bass doesnt drown out the voice one bit.

Don't get me wrong, the onboard power from a decent headunit will far out-do that of a cheapy.

But they're still no match for a semi-decent amp tbh. ;)
 
  Works...kind of...
my head unit is 4x52w and i'm looking to run 4x13cm 140w speaker's from that would that be ok ???

Tony.

They're not 140w!

Use your amp on them if you have to.

Or have the fronts linked up to the amp, use two channels for the sub and have the rear 13's connected off the headunit. Then fade the rears in when you have back passengers.

That's what I'd do.
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
I think what i will do is put the head unit in with the door speaker's and see what it's like then if it's not's sufficiant i will add an amp, but as for the sub what size amp should i try on that atm i've got a 200w amp im assuming that won't be enough to power it ???
 
  Works...kind of...
What sub is it, make and model?

I used to run a 250w RMS Phoenix Gold sub off 150w and it did alright.
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
It's got my head boxed in this like lmao, really what i need is to run the sub and 4 speaker's off one amp due to the sapce there's not enough room for 2 amp's !!!
 
  RIP MK2 PH1/1.4 16v Polo
Don't get me wrong, the onboard power from a decent headunit will far out-do that of a cheapy.

But they're still no match for a semi-decent amp tbh. ;)
yeah get what you mean mate, just braught a 300watt amp (to wire my rear speakers up to) for £10 of someone i know, hes got one left might get that aswell.
 
  Hondata'd EP3 Type R
Right look at WRMS figures for your equipment, Ignore what it says on them

A 4x52 head unit is probably putting out in the region of 18-22w rms in the real world.

Basically, A rule of the thumb before we go into bridging etc etc is a channel for each speaker.

I would go for something like a JBL GTO 75.4

I personally wouldnt run the 6x9s, But if you are adament you want to, ID run the 6x9s off channels 1 and 2 and then bridge channels 3 and 4 together (the instructions will tell you how to do this) and run the sub off that.

Alternatively, ID get rid of the 6x9s and amp your front door speakers and the sub, Ignore rear fill on a smal lcar like the clio. The stock rear speakers off the headunit will be suffice. The rear speakers do not need amplifying, Your fronts will be more than loud enough if amped correctly, And your rear speakers will just drag soundstage backwards. Rear speakers off the head unit will provide optimum rear fill.

Any more questions please feel free to ask
 
  Za**** & Xr250R
Right look at WRMS figures for your equipment, Ignore what it says on them

A 4x52 head unit is probably putting out in the region of 18-22w rms in the real world.

Basically, A rule of the thumb before we go into bridging etc etc is a channel for each speaker.

I would go for something like a JBL GTO 75.4

I personally wouldnt run the 6x9s, But if you are adament you want to, ID run the 6x9s off channels 1 and 2 and then bridge channels 3 and 4 together (the instructions will tell you how to do this) and run the sub off that.

Alternatively, ID get rid of the 6x9s and amp your front door speakers and the sub, Ignore rear fill on a smal lcar like the clio. The stock rear speakers off the headunit will be suffice. The rear speakers do not need amplifying, Your fronts will be more than loud enough if amped correctly, And your rear speakers will just drag soundstage backwards. Rear speakers off the head unit will provide optimum rear fill.

Any more questions please feel free to ask

Thank's for the adive matey the plan is now to scrap the 6x9's use the amp that i was going to use on the 6x9's on the front door speaker's and the other amp on the sub, will i be able to use a 200w amp on a pair of 140w speaker's ???

Cheer's Tony.
 
  alien green rs133
i got loads wire to one side of a 750w amp and its fine :D

im probs doing it well wrong but sounds tasty, lyk or summit or noffink

6" components- rear coaxails and sub bodged in, im doing it totally wrong, couldnt be arsed running another phono lead
 
  vaux cavalier
Excellent, can i run 4 speaker's from a 2 chanel amp ???

Yes you can....

The amp in question is bridgeable into a 4ohm load, which means each channel will drive loads as low as 2ohm, so 2X 4ohm speakers per ch connected in 'parallel' is possible.....But, connected in this fashion you would lose the ability to fade between front & rear....

I think i will have to keep it simple then and just run the sub on an amp and the 4 speaker's from the head unit !!!!

Possibly your easiest option, although if your head units pre-out is full range you may struggle due to limiting bass reproduction from the mids to attain higher volume....

Thank's for the adive matey the plan is now to scrap the 6x9's use the amp that i was going to use on the 6x9's on the front door speaker's and the other amp on the sub, will i be able to use a 200w amp on a pair of 140w speaker's ???

Cheer's Tony.

Possibly your best option given the equipment you currently have.....

With regards amp output power in relation to speaker input power;

Almost any amplifier can be used to drive any speaker, if the amps output power exceeds that of the speakers input power then its quite acceptable to simply run lower amp gain/sensitivity....

If the scenario is reversed, (amplifier output power is below speaker input power), then this extra speaker performance is simply lost....In laymans terms the speaker will never attain its full output volume....

You can't simply increase amplifier output by increasing gain, you will simply push the amplifier into 'clip'....

There is another option available if the Sony amps are capable of 'Tri-Mode' running....

This would involve running a stereo pair as normal in conjunction with a bridged sub from one amp, (2ch amp driving 3 seperate chs), the input to the sub would require a correctly rated resistor to act as a seperate Low Pass filter....

Now some questions.....

I manged to accuire the 6x9's and the bass box i'm under the impression the 6x9's will provide the volume and the bass box will provide the bass, how will i lose sound quality ???
A speaker reproduces sound in accordance with an electrical signal, in order to reproduce sound faithfully the speakers cone must be able to react/move naturally.....If movement is restricted or upset in any way then sound quality will suffer & excess heat build up in the speakers voice coils is possible....

6x9s mounted in a parcel shelf above a sub will react to each pressure wave generated by that sub, this will be in direct conflict with the natural cone movement required to maintain sound quality....The 6x9s cone will simply act as a 'passive radiator' if not being driven....This scenario will eventually lead to premature voice coil faliure....

On the back of the 13cm speaker's it say's 140w peak power and 40w rated does this mean the speaker's are only 40w???
Firstly you need to understand that each different manufacturer has its own rating system or testing technique with regards speaker input ratings....

The peak figure basically indicates the amount of electrical energy required to turn the voice coil into a molten wreck....Rather like a fuse blowing, a fuse rated at say 60 amps will be happy at 60amps, it would still be happy if supporting bursts of 100amps for short periods, but give it 130amps and it will blow instantly.....

The rated or RMS figure that everyone is quoting relates to the 'continuous' input power, but again this should, at best, be considered as a guide only.....

The RMS figure is achieved by playing a 'given' 0dB 'tone/sine wave' at a 'given' input power for a 'given' period of time....This time limit could be 1 minute, it could be 24hrs, it could also be levied against either speaker cone 'ex-max' or voice coil 'thermal handling' limits.....Getting too techy now I think....

So would it be worth running an amp with the 4x13cm speaker's ????
Its always best to use external amplification, flashy graphic displays, cd carriage & lens all suck power from the head units internal amp, lost amplifier power equates to lost quality/performance.....

You could spend a little time reading This Thread which may or may not help you.....
 
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