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Another Cambelt thread

Good morning,

I am planning to do cambelt on my 172 soon. Have the tools, skills, garage, crane and patience:)

I have read a lot of threads about it on here.

I got:
- cambelt kit
- auxbelt kit
- dephaser pulley (+deph. bolt)

I had the cambelt done 2 yrs back, but my dephaser is rattling like a diesel when warm. Did a local garage, but this time i do it on my own.

What else do you recommend changing?

I plan to check waterpump (for movement), it was replaced 2 yrs back. Is it recommended to change anyway?

I have read about cam seals (behind the pulleys, if i understood right). Dont have any leaks but its there for 13 years, so worth changing IMO (or the silicone was of better quality back then in 2001? :) ).

Can I get a part number for the cam seals pls so i can order them at renault?

  172 Cup & K20 Ph1

Apparently, part numbers #2 and #16 are:
2 - 7700106271
16 - 8200058022

But according to others, you need to buy kit #8:

Can anyone confirm this?

number 2 and 16 i have in the Cambelt Kit.

I was thinking at no.8 or 5. I have already a bolt for the dephaser.
Crankshaft pulley bolt a good idea, not required if the bolt is within tolerance but for the price better just to replace it.

Water pump not essential if it is ok but also a good idea. This can be done without disturbing the cambelt after if need be.

Cam seals are also a good idea.

Also remember to change your oil and filter after if fitting a new dephaser.
Thanks for all input so far. Yes, new oil and filters is automatic.

Ordered the bolts and seals today. Waterpump was done 2 yrs back, and i drove it only around 10000km. I would not touch it but the dephaser ticking...
  Cup In bits
As you say the cam seals. The megane 225 crankshaft pulley bolt is the same and its a non stretch bolt if you want to upgrade.

I do the exhaust camshaft nut as its recomended in workshop manuals I have read and only about £3. I would potentially do or be prepared to do the crank seal or oil pump cover gasket if its weeping. The oil pump gasket can be siliconed worst case if its leaking when you pull it apart.

be prepared to seal the cam cover also, good chance to paint it properly too while apart.
Thanks MG cup.
When i found anything else, no problem to leave the car sit in the garage and source whats needed.

Do you have a link to english service manual? I have some pdfs in local, but this site is more usefull than that, LoL :)
hopefully last question:)

I downloaded Dialogys, but i cant see the dephaser blank seal. They say in the manual that Refit the phase shifter blanking piece with a new seal?

Can somebody please confirm if it only comes with a new blanking piece (the one with 14mm opening) or i can get it separately? The blankinkg piece is part 8200539622 if i got it right.
  Cup In bits
It comes on the new blank piece mate but tbh I have never replaced them on the ones I have done as they have all been in good condition, if your worried just use a dab of thread seal from the likes of loctite.
great, so i wont order it now.

Anyway, i can replace it anytime later on if needed.

Looks like i have everything to have a nice saturday in the garage:)
i am checking the kits and have a question about the cambelt tensioner.


I have a strange feeling smth is not right. On mine i can freely rotate the yellow part, while the blue+green stays still.
I think blue+yellow should stay together, othervise the whole tensioner will only move slightly due to the hole being off center slightly.

Maybe its ok and there will be some presure made when at place so it will tension the tensioner spring. Just asking.
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  Cup In bits
If your playing with it loose I.e not attached to the engine it will do that. There is a tab at the back which needs to locate into the engine so it can operate correctly and be tensioned, check this when fitting and that its in the right hole.
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I know what you mean with the tab , its in the manual. Even if I grab the tab, the middle part where you insert the allen key and set tension rotates free. I try to make a video.
For information:

cam seals kit (7701471629) includes:
- dephaser blanking piece with seal (8200539622)
- dephaser bolt with hole in it (8200545704)
- exhaust pulley nut (8200793248)
- exhaust cam seal
- intake cam seal
so, work in progress at my cambelt change. Hell its time consuming, take apart all the stuff to get to the belts;)

Have a few issues.
1st, my timing was out. Not much, but horseshoe did not fit in when crank was locked. Fixed with little adjusting. Cams and crank locked.
2nd, exhaust pulley wont come loose. Locking tool not bent, but the nut cant stay the torque. I might split it at the end or?
3rd, crank cambelt pulley wont move. Bolt is out, but its still stuck somehow. There are 2 little holes with thread in them, so i might build a tool for pulling it down. It looks like nobody ever did move the pulley, so it might be rusted on to the crank?

Besides that, its going forward...slowly.
Did you try and loosen the exhaust stud nut before removing the belt? I hope so.

With the cambelt still fitted, along with the pully locking tool, its normally enough to get it loose, I've had to use an airgun on one once, with wobble joints etc. You really need to avoid turning the camshaft, as the pistons are at TDC, thus meaning its very easy to bend valves on number 1.

The bottom crank pulley I've had loads that are tight, its not a huge problem as Megane bottom pulleys have a keyway, so its just like doing one like that, due to the cam pulleys floating its not a major issue.
  dan's cast offs.
had a few crank pulleys that have had a bit of rust sticking them in place, screw a bolt into each of the threaded holes and lever with a bar and it should pop loose nice and easy.
I tried the exhaust pulley first, when belt was on and pulley was locked, as I read that its the hardest one. Cant raise the engine so high that I could fit a impact gun, so I try loosen the gearbox engine mount to gain more space.

The crank pulley than should be no problem to get off. No weldings visible:)

Thanks for comments
Managed to remove crank cambelt pulley, and also the exhaust pulley with a breaker bar and a big sound effect :)

I am happy that I can tension the belt the proper way
Everything went fine till the exhaust cam 'Bolt ' broke. Did not even reach the required torque.

Is this Bolt bolted into the exhaust cam or do I need a new complete cam?

Sad moments but better to break now as somewhere on roads
Thats good news...I have to dissassemble it tommorow to see how it looks, if I can get it fastened or need to drill it out. Got bored with it today after the timing was finally spot on.
does not look very promising, it will not come loose so easyly:(


can i hurt the cam with heat?

I plan to weld something on the end when out of engine, but not sure about how easy it is to bend a camshaft as i can not lock it tight enough.

Any hints?
  Lionel Richie
I've had to weld a nut on a few times to get the stud out, its "only" loctite holding it in, so the heat will help unwind, will be fine heat wise
I really hope it will come loose. Another thing is,i have oil on cam cover so needed a new seal anyway.

Regarding the tools:
Triumf, could not get the genuine ones.
Tried 3 dealers here locally, they dont sell it.
I know its not genuine tool, but its solid, as it never moved when placed well in the teeth of pulley. But first thing was to replace the washers for a better build ones.
got new stud, finally Locite 518 arrived today, so i put back the cam cover, locked the cams and crank again (was in mid position to be sure).

Played with accesorie belt pulley on crank i found out its worn out. I can turn the outside while the center is not moving. By hand. Not easily but its posible, so i think it was the source of strange sounds sometimes and needs replacement:(
  Clio 172 ph2
Hi 1812lsd, just tried to look at your drop box files and the only folder i can open is radio
Any ideas?
Yesterday I finally finished everything, but it was late so I left the testdrive for today to see if anything is leaking etc.

Today all went fine, sounds a mile quieter on idle. I can hear another sounds now that were not heard before:)
Also cleaned what i was able to clean, refilled gearbox oil as it was easy access when airbox is out, changed spark-plugs.

I had a moment of "ooops, whats going on" when some dirt became smoking on the manifold, but after checking and cleaning all was fine.

Thank you all for support, the manual available on CS were a good support.