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Any 1.8 16v owners, advice please





Hello everyone. I am looking at getting a phase 1 1.8 16v. Or maybe even a phase 2. Phase 2 was the one that was vertually the same as a phase 1, but more rounded wasnt it? Anyway I dont want one of those new fangeled ones, you know the ones that look like sponges.

Anyway, what kind of performance I am looking at for a non modified one? 0-60/60-100 and top speed etc?

What kind of price range am I looking for one with fairly good miliage?

Also whats the chances of finding one thats not been thrashed?

And finaly do you have any suggestions of things to look out for and or avoide. You know, a rattle that means that the engine is going to fall out when I get it home, kinda thing.



Paul
 


(y)0-60 is 7.7; 30-70 in 7.1; top whack 130mph; 1/4 mile just under 16 secs out of the box. But figures dont tell all! 16v has a limited torque spread: so its only moderately fast below 4500rpm - and it isnt a legendary hill racer. But, on the flat and at high revs, its very fast.

I run a 16v with 93k on the clock, but its (now) an absolute minter. So Id not let mileage prioritise over condition. Just this weekend I was speaking to a 16v owner replacing his steering rack on 52k - but mine is still fine on 93k!

Id like you to bear in mind that this list might make it sound as if theyre crappy cars. Theyre not, its just that I havent highlighted the strengths of the 16v here! This is in addition, of course, to the normal checks such as HPi, crash damage, etc etc.

The cars are fairly maintenace-intensive, but, as ever, the care it has received thus far will usually dictate condition. Look for a big folder of bills.

What you should then be looking for then can be split into categories:

Exterior: Rear arch lips are susceptible to rusting, front ones are plastic so arent a problem; rust also possible on door bottoms, around window rear quarters and boot bottom; front fogs (expensive) are prone to splitting due to stone chips; bonnet and front bumper also prone to stone chips.

Mechanical: N.B. due to engine size, many otherwise simple jobs on 16v/Willy are engine-out jobs:(. Cambelts must have been done before 72k; diffs, gbox and clutch are all expensive jobs so check carefully; rear brake callipers can seize; check aftermarket exhaust mountings - often a poor fit; rumbling can be caused by poor exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket (cheap job, disturbing noise); erratic idle commonly due to faulty throttle potentionometer; 16v/Willy run hot, so check coolant system - hoses, rad, expansion tank, water pump, anti-percolation (if you can); engine mounts often go - embarassing and expensive to have your engine fall out, so see if engine rocks back and forth by opening bonnet and pulling accelerator cable; if car has induction kit check security of air hoses; check for snapped front springs; CV gaiters should be checked; handbrake is normally not good; if lowered, will need new front strut top mounts sooner or later.

Interior: Sunroofs leak; electic window switches are £20 - so check them too!

Hope this helps!:D
 


apart form the usall buying a second hand car things took for

clean rad expantion tank and clean water as they can rust this shows signs that thengin has not been looked after

make sure the centrall locking work and that the curcit board in the roof (near the sun roof switch) is clean as this shows signs that the sun roof has been leaking



make sure every thing works if they have got nout to hide they wont mind



john
 


P.S. Difficult to get real power for cheap on these cars. Tuning NA high-output 16v engines is expensive and its not like a GT Turbo where you can get power just by tweaking and a chip. Induction kits will lose power/torque at low revs/low speed.
 


Thanks for the info.

I will be getting an AA checkup done on any car I think might be the one for me. But I wil be able to do a little checkup myself before I call them.

Whats the difference between the valver and a 1.8 RSi?

Would you suggest I look at the valver or another car? I already own a 1.4 rt and I think the car is great (very good condition aswell) but it just lacks the acceleration I want.

If 7.7 is the max acceleration to 60, whats about the average...or is 7.7 the average. You know driving under normal conditions (but with your foot down). And not having to weight until its a sunny dry day?



Thanks again

Paul
 


the 1.8 Rsi was only a 8Valve a wolf in sheeps clothing but not as quick topend but more torque lower down the rev range

john
 


Valver is a majorly different car to the RSi 1.8 - its not just a 16v head bolted onto a normal 1.8 bottom end like with the Golf GTi Mk2. I remember a Revs buying guide said the RSi had the same shell as the 16v - but that is complete bollards!

Basically, the RSi has a 1.8 8v 110bhp lump dropped into a regular Clio shell. It has uprated seats, rear discs and side skirts - but the rest is much the same as a normal high-spec Clio.

The 16v has wider tracks; different brake callipers and discs; different front struts; better rear torsion beam; is -38mm lower all round; wider arches to take said track (front plastic!); bonnet bulge to accommodate inlet mainfold; air vent to cool exhaust manifold; the only common panels are the roof, doors and boot lid; uprated cooling, starting and charging systems; unique seats...the list goes on. Basically the 16v was the hardcore hot hatch of the early 1990s - Williams was a limited special edition (admittedly very special! - 13bhp more from a 2.0 bottom end and much better torque delivery).

I wouldnt get hung up about 0-60 and so on. I imagine that in the right hands, an RSi wouldnt be far off a 16v - but in those "right hands" a 16v would anihilate an RSi. Think RSi book is 8.8 0-60. The beauty of the 16v is the handling and turbo-like post 4500rpm kick - which the RSi is not going to give you.
 
  mk2 172


16v would blast an rsi, iv compared both against a certain car, and well, the valver did the business a lot better in a straight line dash.oh yeah the rsi was chipped too
 


Ok then, a 1.8 16v it is. Now all I have to do is save the money. Oh and find a decent car.

Thanks people.

Paul
 


power steering racks whine, but they all do so you can get some money off saying it needs a new one knowing it dosent,

baicasly make sure its goes like it should without miss firing etc, and check for a dicky box, i.e whineing and popping out of gear, also dip the clutch hard when your going up a hill in a low gear to see if it slips, if it does take £250 off min. check the rear arches for filler with a magnet, the rear arches are cheaply an easily bodged, but they wont last and to cut out an replace the two starts at £750,

but bumpers and bonnets are suprisingly cheap, so take a good wedge off if they are damaged knowing you can guy them for £100 each brand new

to check the CV boots run your hand round the inside of the front wheel they will have greasy oil on them if one has split, not a majior job, more of a bargaining tool,

wheel bearings are easily spotted but can be a bit pricey as the bearing is renault only,

dont ignor a high milage example, check for bottom end knocking (top end tapping isnnt much of a problem) and get someone to follow you when you give it death through the gears to check for any smoke,

basicaly, tharsh it, if its OK buy it!

test drive one and you will be convinced
 


Thanks,

So when you say high milage, what do you think should be my limet.



Paul



ps: I just found a metalic grey 1.8 16v with 50k on the clock, 1 lady owner (so she says!) Owned from new, original spec, perfect condition...£2,895

DAMN I wish I had the money now!
 


Mines on 93k and my flatmates is on 135k - so I think Id know what to expect with high milers. Basically, if the car has always had everything done to it when it was needed (expect, therefore, a big folder of bills) then the car will probably be fine.

Like I say, I know someone who needs a new steering rack at 53k - mines fine on 93k and my flatmates wasnt needed until 125k. So its down to how well its been looked after really.

Id go for a late phase 2 (1995/6) if you can get one. Second hand prices seem to hover between £2500 for a merely OK early one to £4500 for the mintiest late-reg one.

You shouldnt have many problems at 50k, but most expensive things tend to crop up at about 60-70k - clutch, cambelts etc. Either buy one thats low miles and doesnt need them, or a higher mileage one with all the jobs sorted!
 


Is there any truth in the varience in spec?

Its just I keep seeing people saying that "out of the box" performance is different. Sometimes by major margins (3 seconds on the 0-60)

Some say they get quick valvers and some get slower ones. Is this true or is it just a bit of an exageration?



Paul
 


it can be very true! i smashed what seemed to be a mint valver same reg when i had mine, he was a friend of my passenger at the time, and he supposedly loved his car and looked after it like it was a kid, i looked after mine, and only had a piperx air filter.

on the other hand i had big probs keepin up with some on the streets, dont know if they had mods, but i was fappin tryin!

so make ur own conclusions!

its all about not buyin the first one you see! take a few for a drive and see what u like!
 


Do you know if there is anyway of checking which are quicker without actually lineing them up side by side and everyone accelerating the same?

It sounds like a stupid question, and I reckon the answer is no. But its worth asking none the less.


Paul
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Hang on John, wasnt the RSi a *sheep* in *wolfs* clothing?

Anyway, there is no comparison really between the RSi and 16v, two totally different performers. Most of the obvious pitfalls have been mentioned already and I cant think of any more. In my experience, if youre lucky, a standard 16v will just about quarter mile in high 15s...most of them will be in the 16s and 17s however well you drive them.

Likewise 0-60 for a standard one you can *occasionally* clock a genuine 7.8/7.9 kind of time - but thats on one of the rare strong ones. Most valvers will run low 8s all day though.
 


a wolf in sheeps clothing as most people thought it was a 1.4 and not a 1.8 - well most off the people who pulled up next to mine at the lights teehee
 
  Willy2


I saw a dog of a car when I went to look for my valver, it was Blue K Reg and had grey leathers.(I HOPE IM NOT DESCRIBING ANYONES CAR & IF I AM, IM SORRY) This car was being sold in the Croyden area around April time. Anyway this car was truley bad, the sunroof had been bonded together with silicone seal, so that didnt work, both front arches didnt line up and the tailgate did not line up too well, the boot floor carpet was brown, indicating a leak of some sort, the expansion tank was leaking, only with the cap on. The leathers were in a poor condition, the gearbox had scrapyard paint on it along with the engine. There was creases in the sunroof, indicating heavy front impact, when we were taken for a drive the guy avioded 2nd gear like the plague, he even tried a standing start in third! The only thing that i did like about the car was the window numbers they were my first name ie RAJ12345. I brought a grey valver, the same age and I have had a new steering rack put in and new back discs.
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Just saw a white one in Chelmsford today.I dont think Ive ever seen white before, it looked good.

John - yes I see what you mean. But the RSi had those tasty little 5 spoke 14s. I love those wheels and I think the RSi did definitely look quicker than the RT/RN/RL Clios.
 


Yeah I dont think the white ones are all that popular. At least with the boy racers (includes me to a degree) because they look to crappy (sorry if someone has one) so chances are a white one isnt going to have been owned by multiple people and thrashed to buggery by everyone. And if everyone thinks they look crap, hopefully they would have not driven it much. ie low mileage...ok its pipe dream!



Paul
 


I BOUGHT MY 16V A YEAR AGO WHEN I JUST TURNED 18 I HAD BEEN BANNED FOR 6 MONTH PAYED £2500 THIRD PARTY FOR INSURANCE NOT A GOOD START. MY PREVIOUS CAR WAS A GT TURBO THE CLIO FELT A LOT MORE SOLID THEN THE GTT, MINE IS WHITE ON A J DONE 84K WITH FULL RENAULT SERVICE HISTORY WHEN I BOUGHT IT, IT HAD ONE OWNER FROM NEW AND WAS COMPLETELY STANDARD, THE PERSON I BOUGHT IT OFF WAS A MIDDLE AGED WOMAN, THE CAR WAS PERFECT NO SIGNS OF OVERHEATING, RUST OR ACCIDENT DAMAGE. THE CAR DIDNT LEAK OR CLUNK AND BANG. AFTER OWNING IT ABOUT 6 MONTH THE EXHAUST DROPPED OFF SO I PUT A MONGOOSE ON IT SINCE THEN THE EXHAUST HAD BEEN SOUND. THE CAR WAS VERY QUICK WHEN STANDARD AND WOULD LEAVE ALL MY MATES STANDING WHO DRIVE NOVA, CORSA, MERC 190, CALIBRA AND RS TURBO ESCORT. ALL WAS WELL UP TILL FIVE WEEK AGO WHEN MY CLUTCH WENT 2 WEEK PROIR IT STARTED TO BOIL UP NOW AND THEN, THE CAR JUST COST ME £2475 IN REPAIRS LAST WEEK I ONLY PAID £1995 FOR THE CAR, WHEN THE CLUCTH WENT IT TOOK OUT VARIOUS SENSORS IN THE BELL HOUSING, CRACKED THE BELL HOUSING, THE THERMOSTAT HAD GONE, HEADER TANK LEAKED THE MACHANIC HAD THE CAR 4 WEEK IT HAD VARIOUS PARTS SUCH AS RADIATOR £180, HEAD GASKET SET £120, STARTER MOTOR WHAT SEIZED £200 TOTAL PARTS WAS £1300 WITH 45 HRS LABOUR ON TOP. SO OVERALL IT IS REALLY LUCK NOTHING GOES WRONG FUEL COSUMPTION ISNT BAD AT ALL AT GET ABOUT 280 MILES ON £30 AND ON THE MOTORWAY IT KICKS ASS THAT IS WITH INDUCTION KIT, EXHAUST, CHIP AND POWER BOOST VALVE, THE BEST THING TO DO IS GET ONE WITH A LOT OF HISTORY AND REMEBER MILLAGE ISNT EVERTHING ON THESE CARS
 
  mk2 172


you from donny mate?????????? if you are was gonna put a flyer on your car but looked and had none!
 


CLIO16V_BOY:

Sounds like you got a good deal, and have just recieved a bad one! To bad man, sounds rather expensive. Knowing my luck, I will get one (a 16v) and all that and more will happen in the first week. That or America will bomb it thinking it was a Red Cross vehical or something.

Craggy:

Who are you asking if they live in Doncaster?



Paul
 


Quote: Originally posted by Craggy on 02 November 2002

a picture of the caps lock key circled out on a keyboard! ah well
Oh I see, very clever. At first I thought that guy was shouting (via his keyboard) at me for saying white cars where unpopular. Sounds like he has had a run of bad luck though. So lets go easy on him.


Paul
 
  mk2 172


it was 16v boy, and he does, and iv spoke to him before, its a small world mate!, his car was getting fixed right near my works car park, had a look around it before. craggy
 


Ah right I see.

You looked around the car or your works car park? :D

No need to answer that one, I only pratting about.



Paul
 
  BMW 320d Sport


Well I liked the white one. I normally cant stand white cars cos they look like a salesmans company car, but of course being a 16v it looked the nuts!
 


Well done mate. Is the feeling like when you have your first proper poo? A nice sense of achievment?



Paul
 


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