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Anyone ever had racelogic traction control fitted?
- Thread starter LegoHead
- Start date
traction control is useless.
CLios dont have enough power to warrent it, and they only power understeer if your not able to remove your foot from the throttle once doing so.
If your going to spin then your already going too fast and traction control wont do anything for your free rolling rear end.
Its a monkey waste of time.
CLios dont have enough power to warrent it, and they only power understeer if your not able to remove your foot from the throttle once doing so.
If your going to spin then your already going too fast and traction control wont do anything for your free rolling rear end.
Its a monkey waste of time.
182cup & 172 racecar
TC is dangerous
1.2
traction control
how about a lauch control button
hehehe
how about a lauch control button
hehehe
I have the Racelogic system fitted to my Civic Type R. I think some people are getting confused between the sort of systems that come on cars as standard, and the Racelogic system that the thread starter asked about. As I understand it, the TCS and ESP that is on the later 172s and 182s cuts the throttle and brakes individual wheels, which will result in slowing your progress. The Racelogic system monitors each individual wheel speed via the car's existing ABS sensors and progressively cuts fuel injector pulses when it detects a certain percentage difference in wheel speeds. The switch you get allows you to set 0% slip (really just for very very wet conditions), 5% slip for damp and dry road, and then 10% for bone dry roads plus 15% and 20% slip which are probably great in RWD cars but pretty much pointless in FWD and that much slip doesn't aid acceleration and power understeer isn't desirable at all, where as power oversteer can be fun!
So, on the Civic, the traction control unit receives 50 pulses per revolution from each wheel and if it detects more than the percentage slip that you have selected on the dial it mis-fires a cylinder by not passing on the command from the car's ECU to inject fuel. It can do this....erm....LOTS of times every second, so very often you don't even realise it's happening. If it continues to detect slip in excess of that programmed, it will move onto the next sequence of more severe cuts. However, what I have found is that it only takes a minor barely noticeable cut to regain traction, so you never end up not going anywhere, it just slows the rate of acceleration to the maximum possible for the grip available.
Now, in dry conditions with the slip set to 10% it very very rarely kicks in, no matter how hard you provoke the car. I've driven much harder than I normally do with the datalogging turned on and when examining the file afterwards discovered that the system did not cut in once. The sort of corner that it will intervene on in the dry is a very tight hairpin bend when you give it wide open throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. Obviously your wheels are more likely to spin under power when you have a lot of steering lock on.
However....the real difference is in damp and wet conditions. Now, before people tell me that I'm a s**t driver, I'd like to say for the record that I'm not the best, neither am I the worst. I've managed to drive a series of reasonably powerful FWD hot hatches and a couple of RWD cars (and I current ride a Yamaha FZ6 Fazer too) without coming to any grief over the last 13 years in wet and dry conditions. Normally in the wet I do as most sane drivers of hot hatches do, and just back off and take it much more steady than usual. But...with the Racelogic TC system set to 5% (or 0% in really s**tty conditions) you are able to accelerate with near or completely wide open throttle well before you would be able to without it turned on. Wet roundabouts can be taken (where traffic conditions allow of course!) with your foot to the floor with absolutely no chance of understeering into another lane, tight, wet corners can be taken the same. Foot to the floor, TC ECU sets to work calculating the maximum possible grip and the car goes slingshotting round with no fuss. I used to wake up in the morning and hear rain on the roof and resign myself to another tip-toe to work, but now I wake with a smile on my face which only gets wider when I get to power out of soggy roundabouts in what feels all the world like a 4WD CTR! Ever put your foot down to try and get a quick get away out of a junction in the wet in a powerful FWD car? Wheelspin city? Not anymore!
A really good driver (not one who just thinks that they are good, I mean a REALLY good driver!) will be able to control the throttle through a corner modulating the amount of slip for maximum traction two or three times a second - and good on them! However, for us mere mortals, a computer able to assess traction and compensate potentially hundreds of times a second can keep the wheel slipping at the optimum percentage far more accurately than a human being. I'm not saying it will make you a better driver, but it will enable a crap driver to be faster than they usually are round corners, and a great driver to be faster than THEY usually are round corners.
In my opinion, the traction control systems fitted by manufacturers that you have to turn off every time you start the car (or that you can't turn off at all) are safety devices to help people who aren't taking enough care or paying enough attention to their driving. The Racelogic system is far more of a performance modification that will not bug you in the dry apart from in the tightest of corners with the most ham-footed throttle control (and that you can have permenantly off should you so desire) and that in the wet brings a totally different dimension to driving a fast FWD car.
I've read a zillion times on this forum about how 'a Scooby/Evo/Insert4WDofYourChoiceHere' would be so much faster in the wet, yet generally people don't think that drivers of these cars are cheating, they're simply employing technology to their advantage. As far as I'm concerned, the Racelogic system is no different, except for I don't have to put up with 4WD fuel consumption in the dry...! Until you've tried the Racelogic TC on a FWD car, you really cannot comment on it's merits or value for money (or lack thereof!).
Oh, and for all the drag racers out there, the launch control system, once set up for your car / launch style, is really cool, but not something to be indulged in if you a) value your clutch and b) don't want to look like a total dick at traffic lights
Anyway, hope that was of use to the original thread starter and anyone else interested and still awake after reading all that. Anyone in the Sheffield vicinity is very welcome to have a demo (just make sure you pick a really wet day!). And just for the record, providing you have a wiring diagram for your ECU and your ABS module, fitting it is a breeze. I installed my system myself in a couple of hours.
So, on the Civic, the traction control unit receives 50 pulses per revolution from each wheel and if it detects more than the percentage slip that you have selected on the dial it mis-fires a cylinder by not passing on the command from the car's ECU to inject fuel. It can do this....erm....LOTS of times every second, so very often you don't even realise it's happening. If it continues to detect slip in excess of that programmed, it will move onto the next sequence of more severe cuts. However, what I have found is that it only takes a minor barely noticeable cut to regain traction, so you never end up not going anywhere, it just slows the rate of acceleration to the maximum possible for the grip available.
Now, in dry conditions with the slip set to 10% it very very rarely kicks in, no matter how hard you provoke the car. I've driven much harder than I normally do with the datalogging turned on and when examining the file afterwards discovered that the system did not cut in once. The sort of corner that it will intervene on in the dry is a very tight hairpin bend when you give it wide open throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. Obviously your wheels are more likely to spin under power when you have a lot of steering lock on.
However....the real difference is in damp and wet conditions. Now, before people tell me that I'm a s**t driver, I'd like to say for the record that I'm not the best, neither am I the worst. I've managed to drive a series of reasonably powerful FWD hot hatches and a couple of RWD cars (and I current ride a Yamaha FZ6 Fazer too) without coming to any grief over the last 13 years in wet and dry conditions. Normally in the wet I do as most sane drivers of hot hatches do, and just back off and take it much more steady than usual. But...with the Racelogic TC system set to 5% (or 0% in really s**tty conditions) you are able to accelerate with near or completely wide open throttle well before you would be able to without it turned on. Wet roundabouts can be taken (where traffic conditions allow of course!) with your foot to the floor with absolutely no chance of understeering into another lane, tight, wet corners can be taken the same. Foot to the floor, TC ECU sets to work calculating the maximum possible grip and the car goes slingshotting round with no fuss. I used to wake up in the morning and hear rain on the roof and resign myself to another tip-toe to work, but now I wake with a smile on my face which only gets wider when I get to power out of soggy roundabouts in what feels all the world like a 4WD CTR! Ever put your foot down to try and get a quick get away out of a junction in the wet in a powerful FWD car? Wheelspin city? Not anymore!
A really good driver (not one who just thinks that they are good, I mean a REALLY good driver!) will be able to control the throttle through a corner modulating the amount of slip for maximum traction two or three times a second - and good on them! However, for us mere mortals, a computer able to assess traction and compensate potentially hundreds of times a second can keep the wheel slipping at the optimum percentage far more accurately than a human being. I'm not saying it will make you a better driver, but it will enable a crap driver to be faster than they usually are round corners, and a great driver to be faster than THEY usually are round corners.
In my opinion, the traction control systems fitted by manufacturers that you have to turn off every time you start the car (or that you can't turn off at all) are safety devices to help people who aren't taking enough care or paying enough attention to their driving. The Racelogic system is far more of a performance modification that will not bug you in the dry apart from in the tightest of corners with the most ham-footed throttle control (and that you can have permenantly off should you so desire) and that in the wet brings a totally different dimension to driving a fast FWD car.
I've read a zillion times on this forum about how 'a Scooby/Evo/Insert4WDofYourChoiceHere' would be so much faster in the wet, yet generally people don't think that drivers of these cars are cheating, they're simply employing technology to their advantage. As far as I'm concerned, the Racelogic system is no different, except for I don't have to put up with 4WD fuel consumption in the dry...! Until you've tried the Racelogic TC on a FWD car, you really cannot comment on it's merits or value for money (or lack thereof!).
Oh, and for all the drag racers out there, the launch control system, once set up for your car / launch style, is really cool, but not something to be indulged in if you a) value your clutch and b) don't want to look like a total dick at traffic lights
Anyway, hope that was of use to the original thread starter and anyone else interested and still awake after reading all that. Anyone in the Sheffield vicinity is very welcome to have a demo (just make sure you pick a really wet day!). And just for the record, providing you have a wiring diagram for your ECU and your ABS module, fitting it is a breeze. I installed my system myself in a couple of hours.
Last edited by a moderator:
Black Gold 182 (Cup Pack)
I want this! ^^^
R35 GTR
That is it. Racelogic, the whole kit can be bought for under a grand.
Same company/system, optional controller for it with LCD display. Not really necessary though unless you don't have a laptop to set the system up in the first place.
Paid £400 for it myself brand new from someone who bought it in a group buy but never got round to fitting it. Sometimes crop up on fleabay for £350/400 second hand. Well worth having for the reasons I mentioned above, but you're not buying the ability to be a better driver...drive like a tit with the Racelogic system and you'll still crash
