Best camber/toe setup for Trophy

[jesus]

Road use with occasional spirited B-road driving, it may get used on track every now and again but not much.

From searching both on here and on the Trophy forum I've got a vague idea of what settings I should be looking at for the above which are around -1.30 camber and either toe out -0.20 or parallel.

I'm on Eibach Sportlines with standard Trophy Turinis so it's pretty much like standard. I'm getting it done because I need my tracking doing anyway but also when I last had it done it said I had slightly odd camber (only a small difference) and I'd like to get it spot on.

A lot of people will probably say 'I ran it at -2 and it was great' but I need recommendations for what I will be using for as stated in the first line of the thread.

Another point to note is that I want minimal uneven tyre wear but still maintaining decent handling which is what one user said on ClioTrophy -1.30 camber will give me but I'm looking for other opinions too.

Ta.

 

[NorthloopCup]

I used to run one of my cups on 2 degrees negative and 20 minutes toe out up front and it was a really good setup for fast road use. Not to twitchy and stable under braking. It was a daily drive as well so I didn't want anything ridiculous.

If tyre wear is your concern go with 1.5 degrees negative and parallel to 10 minutes of toe. It would be fine on 2 degrees though tbh and I'd seriously doubt anyone could honestly say they could feel the difference between half a degree of camber. As a reference I now run 3 degrees negative and 25 minutes of toe out up front and I still use the car on the road. It even got driven to the ring with a similar geo setup on with no issues other than a small amount of feathering to the inside edges. There was none on 2 degrees even after several thousands of miles and a set of t1 r's lasted around 8k.

Hope thats of some help.

 

[jesus]

I used to run one of my cups on 2 degrees negative and 20 minutes toe out up front and it was a really good setup for fast road use. Not to twitchy and stable under braking. It was a daily drive as well so I didn't want anything ridiculous.

If tyre wear is your concern go with 1.5 degrees negative and parallel to 10 minutes of toe. It would be fine on 2 degrees though tbh and I'd seriously doubt anyone could honestly say they could feel the difference between half a degree of camber. As a reference I now run 3 degrees negative and 25 minutes of toe out up front and I still use the car on the road. It even got driven to the ring with a similar geo setup on with no issues other than a small amount of feathering to the inside edges. There was none on 2 degrees even after several thousands of miles and a set of t1 r's lasted around 8k.

Hope thats of some help.

Thanks for your response mate it's always good hearing people speak from experience. I think -1.5 camber is what I'll go with as it does mainly get used just going to work and back :dapprove: I do want it to handle well when the occasion calls for it though!

Is there a noticeable difference between parallel toe and 10-20 mins of toe out?

 

[Chip-mk1]

I'd be inclined to go for 2 degrees rather than 1.5 if its getting used on track at all, if not a bit more TBH given that you are on quite soft suspension so will be getting a lot of body roll.

 

[NorthloopCup]

Thanks for your response mate it's always good hearing people speak from experience. I think -1.5 camber is what I'll go with as it does mainly get used just going to work and back :dapprove: I do want it to handle well when the occasion calls for it though!

Is there a noticeable difference between parallel toe and 10-20 mins of toe out?

The biggest difference you'll find from the different tracking setups is how much tram lining it will do tbh. The more towards parallel you go the more it will tram line (or that's what mine did), but having said that it's only noticeable on heavily rutted roads like the M1 etc etc. You'll get better turn in feel from toe out, but that's mainly the initial turn in feel. It feels the same after that I find unless running huge toe out.

 

[plees]

jesus I'm from Chorley so not too far from yourself and have been wondering similar questions as I'm about to get a set of springs on my ph1.

Where are you getting it done and at what price if you don't mind me asking.

Cheers

 

[jesus]

BLiNK Motorsport in Cheshire is the only place I trust! It's an hour away but they do a splendid job. I've tried and tested other local places and they have always gone tits up or left my steering wheel offset.

They said around £50-75 I think. If you just want tracking doing it's around £30.

 

[JackJack]

What's the advantage of toe out? Reducing understeer?

 

[hansthebear]

Sharper turn in

 

[Chip-mk1]

Essentially sharper turn in and less understeer are similar. Although depends at what point you are inducing understeer. In a lot of cases it's just the wrong line not the car. Lol.
as Northloop cup mentioned recently. Once your are really loaded up in bend on the way to the apex tracking starts to matter far less as all the weight is on one side anyway!

 

[KevF182]

Agree, precise tracking adjustments make themselves more noticeable with regards to road handling and less so with track driving IMO. When you're just flicking the car gently between corners making slight adjustments to toe affects how stable the steering is, how it feels in load transition and to a certain exten the actual behaviour of the car in "turn-in" (which is really only a track driving term for the cornering phase including both heavy braking and initiating the corner entry). At the higher slip angles of very heavy handling, ie when everything is loaded up in the mid-corner, it matters less what the exact static toe setting is set to (at that instance camber is key)