any common faults on a DCi to look out for?? and anything that is worth looking for on a DCi apart from the basic good service history??
Its a work in progress but someone was asking about buying one so I wrote this up. Needs expanding if anyone has any bit to add please do.
I'm gonna try write a few mopre on 1.2/2.0(might do one per model type)/3.0
Things to looks out for when buying a dci Clio
Whilst this is a bit extensive it should cover most possible issues.
Engine
Check the car starts first time without hesitation or warning lights comming on. Always leve the car a few seconds before starting for the coil warning lights etc to go off before starting the engine though.
Check the car idles right the only exceptions can be with low voltage or the air con is switched on as this can up the idle from the 850rpm which it should stay dead on at to upto about 950rpm.
The stock battery is 600A most motorfactories will check it for condition if you ask nicly.
The engine you have to remember is computer control very little can be fiddled by the owner little diagnostics can be done it will if a problem exists almsot certainly need a dealership to check with there computer to fault find.
Things to check though check oil/water levels. Head gasgets arn't an issue there strong. But they can burn oil so need to ensure if they do burn a bit that with the 18k service intervals that it is checked. No need to worry if it does burn a little oil its just that if it burn 1 liter per 6k (renault toleracne allows for 1 per 600 miles) then after 18k you might have been running below the minimum if the oil level sensor etc isn't working.
Driveshafts need checking there quite prown to problems get the car on full lock and check or else get under the car and try shake the driveshafts to see if there any play in them at either ends.
Check again as with any car for damage wisbones and stearing rack for damage also any subframe damage.
Check to ensure the car goes into all gear as well as any Renault gearbox can and check it doens't move around to much or drop out of 5th (can be a show of low gearbox oil level or worn bodbone mount (the common to wear a lot one)
Check the car stears and brakes stright get it on a stright road and brake hard make sure the car doesn't drift (take note the car is bound to drift a bit to the left on a cambered road.
Check the engine pulls to the redline (5k) it not amazing over 4k but it should in second get to the limiter easily regardless of engine hp moel. Check it pulls from 1.5kl admitidly it doens't realy get the turbo to full boost till 2k but it might show a problem if it jerky etc
Listen out for any whistling from the turbo on spool up there always a bit thoug. Idealy once you've heard a few you'll know what normal any excessive whistling can point to a faulty turbo which is quite common and if it does fail the engine burns it own oil and goes into manic mode you have to stop it with the brakes and gears and stall it else within a few minutes of buring its own oil the engine will be sort of scrap as it will have run itself dry bearing wise etc. However having leaves etc stuck in the intake can do exactly the same thing if they get stuck near the filter.
The problem is due to the oil lines and the long service intervals. If change the oil more (than the 18k original service rules) often and if your aware then if it does fail you know to stall the engine fast. Its a cheap and good mantainince practice which can be done in 20 mins so always worthwhile.
One problem with the engine is the fact that if the engine cambelt or somehting does snap or it goes burn its own oil is breakers yard know the value of the engines so prices can be about 50% more for an engine or gearbox.
The gearbox on the 80 and 65 are much the same there similar to the 172/182 ones the 80 one being the same type the 65 being a slightly weeker one.
(Basically the Willaims, dci 80 and 172/172 share the same type box. The Valver, 1.6 16V and DCi 65 share the same type.
Check to see if there any excessive smoke at full throttle they shoulnd't bee any but a blocked EGR valve is common cause and easy to clean also it will mean the engine can be jerky so if you want use it as a bartering point and risk it being the easy to fix EGR.
Fuel economy is often a big reason for buying one so check 30mpg is nearly impossible except for hard track day work 50mpg is hard driving on a long rung 65mpg is possible if you r taking care. Over 70 can be done depends on your dedication.
Depending one spec levels check the auto lights and if possible wipers although failure of them isn't a huge concert turning lights/wiper on isn't hard can just be dud sensor.
Same goes for the whole of the cars wiring realty check the lights (normal beam lights can go a lot and ofen you never notice)
Check the wear on the drivers seat and pedals if your taking car getting ina nd out and driving no wear should ver realy be evident wear on the side of the pedal often indicated to a bit of harder driving toe and heal etc.
The common problems with the dci can include glow plus failing and TDC sensor. TDC ensor often shows up in poor stating gloew plugs are difficult paret form the glow wanring light ofnten being trouble but the car often sarts fine with just one glow plug. They’re only cheap to fix though.
Check the clutch it should be the regular heavy clutch and have a high biting point it should never slip or give any hastle unless its worn which shouldn't occure till over 100k at least regardless of driving unless its a real hard driven town car (in which can 100k takes a while to do).
Check for towing hooks and any indication under the car that it might have been towing there rated to 900KG from emeory which is a lot particualy if you load the car up so the clutch etc can take a battering if they have been driven that loaded up.
Check the cambelt has been done or be aware it needs to be done idealy if you have no warently ar 60k/4 years IMO but 72k and 5 years is what Renault were happy to warently it at. Its a quick job to do make sure if your using a none Renault dealerhsip they have the tools and know what there doing snce the pump needs tobe pinned as well when chnage the belt. Its about 2 hours work to do the belt if there taking there time and the kits under £70 from memory. So expect a bill of £150 to £300 for the work.
Brake pads are cheap if they need doing and since there so over rated (designed for a 150hp car) they shouldn't wear very quickly. Expect 18k minimum for a life anyting less thans that shows a very very hard driven car or a problem with sticking calipers etc. Rear drums will last seemigly forever and recient chnages to the service rulesmeans they should be cleaned every service. So check to see how worn they are there a cheap part but oftne show the way the car is driven 100k is easily to do even on a car which is quite hard driven. The only exception can be if the rivets, which hold them together famously as they can, do fail requiring new drums.
Wheel bearings can as wirth all cars fail but they are good and strong 100k should be easily possible front and rear.
Shock life well depends on user and what your happy with.
The dci has the stiuffest anti roll bar ever fitted to the none RS models (its infact thicker than the RS models but they use a different design0 this is to help combat the weight of the engine over the smaller engine models so the roll should be less than 1.2/14. models (1.6 16V use the same anti roll bar) links on the bottom of them to the wishbones can fail in use difficult to sence often but you'll hear a knocking sound on cornering.
Tyre wear should be nice and even unless something liek ahrd cornering has been done (side wall wear in extreme cases) or if the r has seena lot of speeds bump it can wear the inside of the tyre.
Stock Dynamic tyres are 185/55/15 and whilst there cheap 195/50 are cheaper there only disadvantageis the speedo under reads by an extra 2% or so ie your milage is 2% out but there often a few % out anyway. Also it will catch with stock wheels on the rear arch liner so idealy should rmeove the wheel and cut away the one bolt which can rub on the wheel a bit.
If the car has aircon/climate then check it works.
Point to check on a dci 80 (the give away is the blue I on the side badges)
Check the intercooler at the front of the car for damage there not cheap to buy and can pick up stone damage etc easily.
Check for a under floor front cover it helps to protect the engine from damage form the road debree etc and should be there.
Also check the engine cover is on under the bonnet it helps with noise.
Brakes are quite touchy so they shouldn't have any spongyness or massivly heavy weighing if they do can be a fault vacume pump or in the case of spongness just need bleeding.
Sunroofs rattle its just there way IMO leave it if its out of warently otherwise get it back and get them to do the next level of repair that they can. You can hold the sunroof down more with sponge etc on the handle but IMO don't bother it just puts extra loads on it.
Check the seats slide and one 3 door the seats can and do slide and fold forward to get into the back.
Check the fog lights work as the connectors are a bit rubish.
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