Bit of help from you pros!

[The Boosh!]

Sorry to be a nuisance But i figured rather than me just going out and farting about getting below average images, i thought it would be a good idea to ask the photographers on here there opinion...

Basically, tonight I am going out with my bro and his mates who are pretty smart on BMX's and they want some pictures taking. In the day this wouldn't be a problem as there is plenty of light, however this will be around 9pm where its nearly dark...

My question is, what settings should i use for action shots of them on the bike? As with photography of static objects you can leave the shutter open for as long as you please on a tripod but with people moving i can see how it may be an issue.

Should i still take my tripod also? (Hope i am being clear and sorry to bug you all with these photography threads)

Luke

 

[Soph]

You'll need ISO 1600, or maybe even ISO 3200, and want as quick a shutter speed as you can get to freeze motion.

 

[Ian]

I don't know the full details, but you'll need to use flash. I think you set it to second curtain and use a fairly slow shutter speed. The slow shutter speed introduces movement, but the flash keeps the subject sharp.

I know there are a few people that can be a lot more help than me though.

 

[Revels]

Well it depends what sort of shots you want.

If you want to freeze the action, so the shots look like they aren't moving, you're going to want a fast shutter speed. At night this is going to be a challenge especially with just the kit lens, so depending on how dark it h'actually is where you're going, I'd foget that idea.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/swampy_mk/2137792943/

That shot is at 1/250 which at night you might struggle to get..

You could try some panning/motion, which will probably give you better results with lower light.

I would personally say you don't need your tripod, but take it with you anyway. It's better to have it just in case.

 

[The Boosh!]

You'll need ISO 1600, or maybe even ISO 3200, and want as quick a shutter speed as you can get to freeze motion.

Thats a good starting point. Id have been out on iso 100 on a tripod lol

I don't know the full details, but you'll need to use flash. I think you set it to second curtain and use a fairly slow shutter speed. The slow shutter speed introduces movement, but the flash keeps the subject sharp.

I know there are a few people that can be a lot more help than me though.

Ian, I have read about this flash Sync stuff. On leaves a backward trail of light and one leaves a forward trail of light or something? Could you look where the setting is on your camera as i cant figure it out on my D60 (but it has got it as i have a book on it... But it doesn't tell u how to change the settings :S)

 

[The Boosh!]

Well it depends what sort of shots you want.

If you want to freeze the action, so the shots look like they aren't moving, you're going to want a fast shutter speed. At night this is going to be a challenge especially with just the kit lens, so depending on how dark it h'actually is where you're going, I'd foget that idea.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/swampy_mk/2137792943/

That shot is at 1/250 which at night you might struggle to get..

You could try some panning/motion, which will probably give you better results with lower light.

I would personally say you don't need your tripod, but take it with you anyway. It's better to have it just in case.

Thank you Dan... Altohugh it is at night, i dont think the place is totally pitch black. It has some white street lighting etc so i think that will help out a little.

I am just looking through flickR now to get some ideas:boring:

 

[Ian]

Ian, I have read about this flash Sync stuff. On leaves a backward trail of light and one leaves a forward trail of light or something? Could you look where the setting is on your camera as i cant figure it out on my D60 (but it has got it as i have a book on it... But it doesn't tell u how to change the settings :S)

Yeah if you flash at the start it blurs in front of the rider, as the movement is yet to happen, and if you flash at the end it blurs behind the rider, as the movement has already happened.

This looks like 2nd curtain (flash at end) to me: http://www.flickr.com/photos/draken413o/3375312962/

I'll have a look at the settings in a few minutes, but
a) I've never used it and
b) I know how different our cameras are lol.

 

[Jungle_Jim]

as mention you want curtain to use 2nd (rear) curtain flash to get some motion blur and then freeze the subject

im assuming you have a nikon, i found this:


Flash ModeThe flash mode you can select depends on the shooting mode selected on the main dial. In the AUTO modes you can choose between:

1. AUTO
2. AUTO with red-eye reduction
3. Flash off

In Program and Aperture Priority modes you can choose between:

1. Fill flash
2. Red-eye reduction
3. Slow sync
4. Slow-sync with red-eye reduction
5. Rear-curtain sync

And in Shutter Priority and Manual modes you can choose between:

1. Fill flash
2. Red-eye reduction
3. Rear-curtain sync

For more info about flash terms see the SLR Flash Glossary

 

[The Boosh!]

Thanks jungle jim, that is why i couldn't find it as i was on shutter mode

So its rear curtain sync i need to be using with my flash, yeh?