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Bleeding brakes (non abs) from empty



System all plumbed, have pumped fluid with proper sealey pressure bleeder through all corners a couple times, gave the pedal very slow and short press a few times just to check things, is light. Should I do some more pumps like that then go through all corners again? I remember when I first fit the 197 mc it not being bench bled and getting all the air out, that was with abs as well, so dont see why I cant do it this way, I just dont like to touch the pedal when its not bled and risk destroying the mc!
 
Anyone know the difference between bench bleeding the mc off the car, to putting it in on the car dry and using the 1 way method (hose from bottle submerged in fluid) and pumping the pedal? Whats the difference?
 
So attached pipe from the bleeder all the way into the reservoir and kept pumping until fluid circulated, did this to the rear caliper as well. Then ran the pressure bleeder through each corner for a bit. Loads of air came out on all corners but pedal still not great. So do I just keep running the pressure bleeder again and again?
 

finch wxm

ClioSport Club Member
  clio 172
I know when my system was dry with ABS i had to do it about 8 times ! Kept finding air in system.

Probably just need to keep at it buddy , should be alot simpler with no ABS pump though you would expect
 

JamesBryan

ClioSport Club Member
Best way is to get the 5L pagid fluid from Euro and run it all through, 1L per caliper.

Then if you want high temp stuff for track, just rebleed again with whatever stuff you want.

Should be easy without abs.

Try tapping the calipers with a rubber/plastic hammer as you're bleeding them. Sometimes air bubbles get stuck to the castings inside the caliper.
 
Thanks guys, will keep running it through with pressure bleeder.

Best way is to get the 5L pagid fluid from Euro and run it all through, 1L per caliper.

Then if you want high temp stuff for track, just rebleed again with whatever stuff you want.

Should be easy without abs.

Try tapping the calipers with a rubber/plastic hammer as you're bleeding them. Sometimes air bubbles get stuck to the castings inside the caliper.

I would of thought, really dont know why its harder this time round!

Try bleeding with the car running.

Non abs mate, unless It was to give a good idea how hard the pedal is with servo assist, but Im in a small garage so would be like that scene from bad santa lol

6837c291cabccb08815ea5debbdc47e5.jpg
 
Why doesnt the air just leave? There seems to be an infinite amount. I dont understand where its being stored in the system.
 
Not sucking air in past the bleed nipple threads is it?

Stick some grease around the bleed nipple threads to seal them up a bit.
It is, worse on one the rears (other is brand new) None on one of the fronts, I swear Ive greased them before. I tried to grease the bad rear but the fluid just seeped past, I used some brake grease, I also have some red rubber grease if thats better.

Theres also a clicking sound when I push the pedal at maybe 1/2 inch of travel, it doesnt matter if I go really slow, it happens at same volume.

I went through all 4 corners with pressure bleeder but didnt do anything. I just did one man method to one of hte rears and one front, not sure if its done anything or not, I think the pedal gets firmer because my leg starts to get more fatigued lol
 
So I press the pedal, the first thing is just dead zone built into the servo, then its this low resistance 1/2 3/4 inch travel then the click, after the click its firmer :unsure:

 
I am running 197mc with 197 brembos and 197 rear calipers (38mm bore) bigger than 182. I have a tilton valve for the rears, it is new and is set fully open for the bleeding process. I am using smaller than usual hardline for the rears and standard 3/16 size for the fronts. My reasoning behind this is in my project thread, I dont see how what Ive done could cause this pedal but I really dont know. I can keep pumping and using pressure bleeder but dont want to be wasting time and fluid. I also bought another 197mc on ebay that Im using, this one has less movement at the piston than the other one I had so thought this one is better (better internals)
 
Last 2 litres did nothing to pedal, pressure bleeder and then 1 man method. Just nothing to the pedal then it slightly firms up. Never had this before. I remember when I had 172 cup setup, I just did 1 go of pressure bleeder followed by 1 man method and the pedal was rock hard.
 

Awesome col

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio cup 172
I had similar problem, turned out I wasn’t getting a great connection at the bias valve due to being a taper thread. I hadn’t used a thread sealant. Sorted it right out. Also bled with pressure bleeder
 
I had similar problem, turned out I wasn’t getting a great connection at the bias valve due to being a taper thread. I hadn’t used a thread sealant. Sorted it right out. Also bled with pressure bleeder
Thanks, but the threads are 3/8s compression fitting. I’ve made sure there aren’t any leaks at the flares and fittings. Idk, the clicking is strange, can’t find any info online about it. Wish you could just buy a new 197 mc
 

Awesome col

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio cup 172
Clicking might be master cylinder push rod not aligned properly but just guessing. Autodoc have ATE mc’s not sure if correct one. Aftermarket might be better than knackered original if that is where your air is getting in
 
Clicking might be master cylinder push rod not aligned properly but just guessing. Autodoc have ATE mc’s not sure if correct one. Aftermarket might be better than knackered original if that is where your air is getting in
Unfortunately they're all left hand drive :confused:
 
Dont know how Im gonna get the rear piston out. But this may or may not be what was happening with the pedal, pushing the piston in is notchy when it was compressed in with the circlip.



















I have a 182 mc and 172 cup mc, the 172 cup is smoother than the others and already has a proper circlip so can easily take apart, big redd do a kit for the bosch mc so might look at rebuilding the cup mc. Im not sure exactly how they work, but I think they have a bias built into them, so the first piston moves before the second. But Im not sure and if they are abs dont they go cross pattern so that if one piston fails under braking the car still goes straight.
 
172 cup mc all apart, the rebuild kit from big redd seems all good. Although as you can see the casing has seen better days where it meets the servo.

Im going to rebuild this one up regardless but not sure what Im doing yet. I put a 197 mc back on the car, primed the master cylinder and started bleeding like before, got to the exact point of pedal travel I was before and ran out of fluid! Ordered more but this is all part of the game of learning, I might look at the larger bore non abs mc's from peugeot.

IMG_1157.JPG
 


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