ClioSport.net
Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
-
When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.
bonding carbon fibre panels
- Thread starter philip
- Start date
Can i ask why you need to know this?
Remember carbon has shortcomings over some metals like steel, aluminum etc. Once damaged carbon basically loses all its strength, and it snaps opposed to bending. It also loses strength when heated a lot quicker than steel. In the US carbon replacement panels (bonnets, front wings, boots for example) are illegal for road use for these reasons.
-Rob
I know but a lot of people get it for the sake of telling their mates they have carbon bits. Not that im saying this is why Philip has asked the question but Carbon does have some negatives, though yes its strength/lightness is astonishing.
What im saying is if you break carbon you cant repair it, you replace it, and everyone knows how pricey it is.
-Rob
Well i started a thread a while back to see what the demand would be if i got Reverie to do a run. To be viable they wanted about 50 cars, so you can imagine the cost implications unless you find a mate who happens to be an engineer for that sort of thing.
-Rob
http://erc.qmuc.ac.uk/cliosport/file.php?image=1058439822__image8.jpg
use polished ally sheet or thermoplastic with reflective tape.
Carbon is a directionally strong material, and they stuff they use for stressed components are typically strong in 2 directions only, plus its not jsut sheet by kevlar honeycombe, several layers of multidirectional fibre and they are now dringing in Z pinning of impact zones.
Pointless unless its for door cards, outer wings, boots and bonnets for weight loss ONLY.....its not strong stuff when used like that.
I live in SE london and just did this search on yell.com for Aluminum fabricators.
http://search.yell.com/search/DoSearch?state=INI&screen=VAL&targetName=&businessType=Aluminium+fabricators&companyName=&location=DA15+9AL&Submit.x=48&Submit.y=9http://search.yell.com/search/DoSearch?state=INI&screen=VAL&targetName=&businessType=Aluminium+fabricators&companyName=&location=DA15+9AL&Submit.x=48&Submit.y=9
Clio 1.6 16V
Philip, make sure you make up a cardboard prototype first so that you can guage how it is going to fit. Pain in the ass but a worthwhile exercise especially if you are paying someone to do the job for you. I did this with mine and made up the panels straight from the carboard templates before I welded things together.
excellent piece of advice. How about another one: any ideas on how to verify if the bonnet is shutting tight against my box, i.e tight enough to form a seal? I can obviously design the box to form a tight seal directly off the bonnet, but then how do I know how much clearance I have between the bonnet and other items in the engine bay???
Clio 1.6 16V
Hi Philip, I actually used a long thick welding rod and bent it to the same profile (inside) the bonnet. If you then place it from bulkhead to slam panel across the engine bay on the rubber sealing strips you can guage the correct height. I must have got it right as I now have a box shape indentation on the felt liner of the bonnet and the bonnet still shuts easily. BTW I used the the same rubber strip along the edges of my box as fitted to the front/back of the engine bay. Have fun
http://www.fifegallery.co.uk/domains/cliosport/coldair02.jpg
http://www.fifegallery.co.uk/domains/cliosport/coldair03.jpg
very impressive work. so you reckon the feed could just as well been through the bonnet vs. the pipe by the battery - obviously that is if you were to make a hole or some louvres in the bonnet. Also noticed the air temp sensor. Good idea, where does that go through the bulkhead? maybe the bonnet release gromet??
Clio 1.6 16V
Cheers Bondy and philip. If you were "man" enough then louvres or a duct in the bonnet would probably be better. Although I think personally that would spoil the front profile of the car. Also from past experience on another car, in a previous life, I found that the filter was flooded with water during major downpours using this method! I went for the 75mm ducting down to the front grill, similar to what Roamer did ( I actually stole his idea but dont tell him
). To do this you will have to remove the air valve thingy behind the NS headlight. Plug the vacuum hose and detatch and plug in the solenoid to keep the ECU happy. The air temp sensor was only temporary to see if things were working out (cable fed through the passenger door). Results were good with an average intake temp about 2 deg C over ambient. This was tested with about 24 deg C ambient which was rare for Scotland!!http://www.fifegallery.co.uk/domains/cliosport/coldair01.jpg
Clio 1.6 16V
Rhys, about £8 for the 1mm steel, about £15 for the Reno rubber seals, £30 for the pipercross 75mm air duct kit, £65 for the heat resistant foil (ouch but nesessary), £20 for paint, gas welder & brazing rods and a good few hours in the garage while the wife was busy watchin Emmerdale, Coronation St and East Enders!! oh and the obligatory cuts and burns during fabrication!
Clio 1.6 16V
Bondy, have you got pictures of the air box on your valver?
Clio 1.6 16V
I bow to the Induction Master ... LOLSimilar threads
