Braided fuel lines with metal fuel rail

[chrispy.clio]

This is not as cheap as i thought it was going to be!

Jenvey fuel Rail - £50 + Vat
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/accessories/fuel-system/jenvey-dynamics/fuel-rail-4-x-single-sfr4-x-x-x

Fuel Rail Mounting bracket for my standard injectors - £30 + Vat
http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/accessories/fuel-system/jenvey-dynamics/fuel-rail-mounting-pico-sfrc3

3 Meters of 8mm Braided fuel Hose - £35 ish
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/6-8mm-5-16-St...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item23051cee6a

Fuel Pipe Fixing - £16.50
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/GOODRIDGE-6-9...&otn=3&po=LVI&ps=63&clkid=8894147690777302693

So its basically £150 just to have a stronger fuel rail!

I do have a question, what fixing do i need to attach the braided hose to the fuel tank/pump? I know the standard one is a push on one on the top of the tank but i cant find a fitting to go on the braided hose. I dont really want to cut the standard fuel pipe and bodge it on. So can anyone help?

 

[Tom@JMS]

Use a braided outer fuel hose with a hose finisher (like this: http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Motor...ings/Sytec_Pro_Clamp_Hose_Finishers/1537/2479) on the fuel tank.

The fuel rail thread it /6 JIC, so you need a blank on one end and a hose to rail adaptor, you can pick them up from Think Automotive.

 

[Tony Hunter]

We have used those hose finishers,they do a good job.

 

[Šįk]

I was going do this on the 7 as the original ones are all getting perished now. But I was put off and have gone for rubber ones as you won't be able to tell what condition of the rubber is like behind the braided metal, last thing you want is petrol all over the shop without warning lol!

Just abit of advice

 

[chrispy.clio]

We have used those hose finishers,they do a good job.

So do you just push that finisher on the end of the fuel line and then push it onto the end of the fuel pump and tighten the clip thing?

 

[chrispy.clio]

I was going do this on the 7 as the original ones are all getting perished now. But I was put off and have gone for rubber ones as you won't be able to tell what condition of the rubber is like behind the braided metal, last thing you want is petrol all over the shop without warning lol!

Just abit of advice

The fuel hose I will be getting is not rubber it's a sort of plastic iirc, and it has braided hose over the top to make it hard wearing etc. Still quite expensive but should add a bit of bling to the engine bay with anodised bits.

 

[Tony Hunter]

So do you just push that finisher on the end of the fuel line and then push it onto the end of the fuel pump and tighten the clip thing?

Yes

 

[Tom@JMS]

I was going do this on the 7 as the original ones are all getting perished now. But I was put off and have gone for rubber ones as you won't be able to tell what condition of the rubber is like behind the braided metal, last thing you want is petrol all over the shop without warning lol!

Just abit of advice

I've think you've got your advice the wrong way round? A new hose is not going to have any condition problems - the overbraid protects it's condition.

 

[Šįk]

Erm.. I mean in the long run.. not straight away. Does that clear things up? E.g. A Simple problem like a split in the rubber/plastic hosing underneath the braid etc. Basically I was just warned it's better to be able to see the rubber/plastic so you can check it rather than not being able to due to the braided steel covering the rubber/plastic hose.

I'm just passing on advice I was given from a Caterham specialist as they advised me away from braided hoses on the Dellorto's :S ??

 

[MicKPM]

That is only true of the cheap hose PSJ. If you buy a quality item, such as the Goodridge, I promise you the hose wil outlast you! Honestly, you try cutting the stuff to fit the connections and you see its not your typical butile rubber covered in a cheap stainless wire braid...

...worth every penny IMO!

Mick

 

[chrispy.clio]

Does anybody know if the 8mm braided hose is the correct size? Doesn't need to be fatter or anything does it?

 

[Fred@BTM]

you don't need 3M of hose if you're doing it for "pretty" purposes, there's a connector in the stock fuel line under the car below the pedals, just run the line from there upto the rail

 

[MicKPM]

8mm ID is fine yes.... aka "Dash eight"

 

[chrispy.clio]

Fred I'm doing mainly because I want it to be stronger (car will be raced in the future) but it will also look nicer. I don't really want to Bodge it and have joins, I was also thinking of running the fuel line inside the car. I still need to measurements to see exactly how much I need.

I spoke to Think Automotive today and I can get an anodised alloy blanking cap for the end of the fuel rail, only a few quid so that will be bought soon.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Oops

 

[MicKPM]

Don't run fuel inside the cabin area of the vehicle - If its the only thing you put on the outside/underside, make it this!

Fred had the best tip IMO - Run the standard plastic "tank to engine bay" lines as it fits in the standard clips then replace the flexible sections that run to the fuel rail with Goodridge/Earls.

Mick

 

[chrispy.clio]

Why should I be running the fuel line outside the car? My thoughts on running it inside the car were that it could never be caught and ripped. If I was to run a full braided line from the tank to the rail then that would be stronger and better than running half a plastic and half braided line?

The line would be out of the way of the driver too with the way I would route it.

 

[Tony Hunter]

We had no choice with having the swirl pot and fuel pump in the spare wheel well.Expensive when you start buying 12m of the stuff.

 

[MicKPM]

Did you not have to install a firewall Tony? Does it not need to pass scrutineering? I know what you mean though about buying this stuff as my 19's fuel lines cost around £400 to do with all the swivels and unions.

Chrispy - Fuel lines in the cabin is frowned upon because in the event of an accident the cabin is supposed to be a fire resistant area, if only for a few minutes, thus protecting the driver. By doing this, in the event of a smash YOU don't get covered in fuel or catch fire if there is a problem.

 

[chrispy.clio]

Mick that does make sense. I will have another think about what to do.

I think I have all the Info I need now so I will buy the parts I need next week

Thanks guys

 

[Tony Hunter]

Did you not have to install a firewall Tony? Does it not need to pass scrutineering? I know what you mean though about buying this stuff as my 19's fuel lines cost around £400 to do with all the swivels and unions.

Chrispy - Fuel lines in the cabin is frowned upon because in the event of an accident the cabin is supposed to be a fire resistant area, if only for a few minutes, thus protecting the driver. By doing this, in the event of a smash YOU don't get covered in fuel or catch fire if there is a problem.

Swirl pot and fuel pump are sealed,any fuel lines inside cabin have to be braided without any joins,

http://burpspeed.com/Burpspeed/Buil...uel_Lines_&_1st_Start_Up_XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX.html

http://burpspeed.com/Burpspeed/Build/Entries/2010/2/28_Entry_1.html

 

[Martin.]

Interesting read thanks.