Brakes slightly stuck

[Ex-User (107751)]

Hi , when doing a brake pad change lately , I noticed both the rear brakes were slightly stuck (handbrake off). Tires were hard to spin by hand, and stopped after 1 turn or so. Without the tires, the disc brakes were hard to spin and stopped immediately when I left them.
After changing the brake pads , it feels the same.
The car also won't roll on slight slopes in neutral, where my other car would. Hard to push the car as well.
Not sure if the fronts are slightly stuck too, I heard the transmission will make them harder to spin, even in neutral, so didn't check.
All rims get covered in brake dust pretty much the same.

My question is, since I can't find copper\brake grease where I live, would this shorten the brake pads lifetime a lot, or do any damage?

 

[smac4494]

Your caliper Pistons need replacing/ refurbing. Something between the piston and the caliper is causing it to deploy. Basically get the piston out (make sure you have a replacement piston and seal just in case). Use copper grease on the back of the piston and make sure there is a light covering but enough to cover the edges sufficiently.

 

[172_Tom]

Your caliper Pistons need replacing/ refurbing. Something between the piston and the caliper is causing it to deploy. Basically get the piston out (make sure you have a replacement piston and seal just in case). Use copper grease on the back of the piston and make sure there is a light covering but enough to cover the edges sufficiently.

Just to be clear to the OP - the copper grease can go on the back of the pads (or the part of the piston that contacts the back of the pad) but should not be applied anywhere else on the piston.

OP - do your rear wheels get warm after driving for a few miles? This will cause extra wear to your discs/pads and the extra heat may not be good for the wheel bearings either.

Options for sticking calipers are (roughly in ascending cost order):
1. Second hand calipers (which could start sticking again a few months down the line...)
2. DIY rebuild with new piston & seals. Probably the cheapest option but not something every DIY mechanic will want to tackle.
3. Send them off to a caliper refurb specialist like Biggred.
4. Purchase new/refurbed calipers. A properly refurbed caliper is as good as new.

I went for option 3 as it was cheaper than option 4 and it didn't matter that the car was off the road for a bit.

 

[dangerous dave]

Your pads sit in guides that rust and often the pad gets tight.. The force of the pedal and handbrake moves them but they don't slide away from the disk.. When you change pads the guided should be wire brushed and a little copper slip on them keeps them slippery.. Only the guide tho..

Easy to check...

I've done stacks of pads that needed levering out with screw drivers and a hammer......when I shouldn't need too..

 

[Ex-User (107751)]

The little piece of metal you slide under the brake pads to lock them in place was very hard to get in. So probably what dave says ?
Will it last for a year at least if I just sand it or the copper grease is necessary ?

 

[dangerous dave]

It's you clean it up and grease it correctly and all works well that should be fine... The rear pads come with little meat on as they aren't hugely used in braking.. If you have enough pad left, and it's all working well, crack on...

 

[smac4494]

Just to be clear to the OP

Sorry yeah. Btw Ive been doing number two since I was sixteen. Definitely worth learning