Bypassing the Immobiliser on a ph2 172

[Niall]

I had this same problem today after a somewhat strange turn of events, lol. Early this morning I left for work at my usual time and soon noticed that my only ignition key/ key fob wasn't working and the car refused to unlock. At this point I went back indoors and replaced the transponder battery inside the key but once again upon testing the car refused to unlock. After further examination within the key and removal of the PCB I noticed that the tiny micro switch (which should be securely soldered to the PCB) had a broken solder connection on 1 side, I was then able to quickly unlock the car by simultaneously making the broken connection and pushing the switch at the same time, after this I drove to work unhindered, parked my car and left it unlocked (In a fairly secure car park) While I was at work I had an engineer friend resolder the broken connections and successfully repair me key/ key fob, I thought this was the end of my problems until I tried to start the car to drive home. The doors locked and unlocked fine but the engine would only turnover for 3 or 4 seconds and would not fire at all. After checking for and finding no blown fuses I gave up and phoned the AA. When the AA patrol man arrived he watched while I tried to start it a few times then he looked at a couple things under the bonnet and said try it now, to my amazement the engine burst into life. All he did was pull on what he called the "exciter wire" which connects onto the starter motor somewhere. At the end of the day it's not WHAT you know, it's WHO you know.

Exiter wire coming off is a fairly common one. Had that with mine at the start of this year, this wire is a spade connector and the connection on the motor is basically a ring connector over a thread with the spade connection coming off it, and mine was a bit loose and it meant that this ring connection would rotate because of vibration and eventually knock the wire off the connection.

One thing I'd say is that if the AA man could so easily see and then get the exciter wire back on it probably means your starter motor heat shield is missing, this is how I was able to keep putting mine back on when it kept coming off. So once it's sorted make sure you get a heat shield for it because this can cause heat related damage being right near the manifold.

 

[BillyB1976]

I had this same problem today after a somewhat strange turn of events, lol. Early this morning I left for work at my usual time and soon noticed that my only ignition key/ key fob wasn't working and the car refused to unlock. At this point I went back indoors and replaced the transponder battery inside the key but once again upon testing the car refused to unlock. After further examination within the key and removal of the PCB I noticed that the tiny micro switch (which should be securely soldered to the PCB) had a broken solder connection on 1 side, I was then able to quickly unlock the car by simultaneously making the broken connection and pushing the switch at the same time, after this I drove to work unhindered, parked my car and left it unlocked (In a fairly secure car park) While I was at work I had an engineer friend resolder the broken connections and successfully repair me key/ key fob, I thought this was the end of my problems until I tried to start the car to drive home. The doors locked and unlocked fine but the engine would only turnover for 3 or 4 seconds and would not fire at all. After checking for and finding no blown fuses I gave up and phoned the AA. When the AA patrol man arrived he watched while I tried to start it a few times then he looked at a couple things under the bonnet and said try it now, to my amazement the engine burst into life. All he did was pull on what he called the "exciter wire" which connects onto the starter motor somewhere. At the end of the day it's not WHAT you know, it's WHO you know.

Exiter wire coming off is a fairly common one. Had that with mine at the start of this year, this wire is a spade connector and the connection on the motor is basically a ring connector over a thread with the spade connection coming off it, and mine was a bit loose and it meant that this ring connection would rotate because of vibration and eventually knock the wire off the connection.

One thing I'd say is that if the AA man could so easily see and then get the exciter wire back on it probably means your starter motor heat shield is missing, this is how I was able to keep putting mine back on when it kept coming off. So once it's sorted make sure you get a heat shield for it because this can cause heat related damage being right near the manifold.

I'll check that tomorrow, thanks Niall. (Ps)the AA man did say he couldn't reach the connector, he just pulled on the cable a little bit and said there may be a loose or poor connection. I could clearly tell that he knew exactly what he was doing. (PPs)it wasn't actually an AA patrol man either, lol.
I am with the AA & that's who I phoned but I got a text saying there partners Keltek Motors would be providing my assistance? Good job Keltek Motors, many thanks!​

 

[Niall]

I see, just have a look anyway bud, should be able to see whether it has a hear shield on it, will just be on the back of the block under the manifold.

 

[C_Kirby94]

Revive an old thread but I seem to have the same issue constant red light sometimes car will crank 3 or 4 times but only if I try straight from putting key in if I leave the key at position 2 till the lights go off it won't crank at all and sometime it won't crank no matter what I have checked the earthing point and relays since someone said it could be this but they are all fine also my wiper and lights still work so don't think it UCh gone I really need help before I sell for spare or repairs

 

[STEVE.M]

Revive an old thread but I seem to have the same issue constant red light sometimes car will crank 3 or 4 times but only if I try straight from putting key in if I leave the key at position 2 till the lights go off it won't crank at all and sometime it won't crank no matter what I have checked the earthing point and relays since someone said it could be this but they are all fine also my wiper and lights still work so don't think it UCh gone I really need help before I sell for spare or repairs

You posted this not long ago.
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/fault-p0120-limp-mode.814964/
Same problem, corroded or broken wiring as in 2011.
If you cannot read, absorb & act on the information, trailer the car to Mick at Diamond.
The trailer hire will cost you more than the fix.

 

[C_Kirby94]

You posted this not long ago.
https://www.cliosport.net/threads/fault-p0120-limp-mode.814964/
Same problem, corroded or broken wiring as in 2011.
If you cannot read, absorb & act on the information, trailer the car to Mick at Diamond.
The trailer hire will cost you more than the fix.

I have read and taken in what i can I have tryer looking at the wires they are seem fine traced them from the white junction box back to where they all connect at the bottom of the ecu do I need to trace them further and how do I get to the starter motor if the heat shield is on no signs of corrotion on the connectors or relays I didn't know if there were any other reasons this would be caused as I have heard people mention it could be the lambda sensor or crank sensor

 

[J273]

I believe i have the same problem as the OP as per this thread:

https://www.cliosport.net/threads/182-intermittent-starting.817418/

Im going to check the loom to see if i have any split wires. Im a little unsure though on where in the engine this is? Is it the loom coming from the fuse/relay box that runs along the top of the wing or further along near the washer bottle? or am i completely in the wrong place?

Thanks

 

[STEVE.M]

Start at the ECU & follow it back to the fuses/relays in the box next to the battery in the LH wing.
Where are you located?
@J273

 

[J273]

Start at the ECU & follow it back to the fuses/relays in the box next to the battery in the LH wing.
Where are you located?


@J273

Im in Burton on Trent

Ok so the loom heading out the ECU to the bottom of the engine start there and work my way to the fuse box? Am I best to take the air box out?
Ta

 

[STEVE.M]

Im in Burton on Trent

Ok so the loom heading out the ECU to the bottom of the engine start there and work my way to the fuse box? Am I best to take the air box out?
Ta

You could nearly push it to Mick in Long Eaton.
Taking the air box out makes access & visual inspection easier.

 

[J273]

Ah not too far from me then, I may have to take it down

Im in the correct place here? I cant see any breaks in the wires.

 

[STEVE.M]

Ah not too far from me then, I may have to take it down :smile:

Im in the correct place here? I cant see any breaks in the wires.

Is this yours?
Somebody has already unwrapped half that if so.
You need to unplug the ECU & check continuity back to the relays/fuses.
Refer to Micks post 23, it may well be corrosion of the plugs.
Not the pins themselves, but where the wire joins the pin.
Disconnect the battery so you don't fry anything.

 

[J273]

Yeah this is mine - Ive just unwrapped it to check

Ive had the car since new and this is the only issue ive had with it.

Ok ta ill have a look

 

[J273]

Just a quick one before i go down that route.

Ive just noticed this bonnet thingymajig which presses in when the bonnet closes. it wouldnt have anything to do with that would it? Ive noticed its proper butchered and the connections poor. Probably nothing to do with it but i thought id ask.

Thanks

 

[prodriv3r84]

Hi guys.
Actually I have a similar problem, I have a Clio 172 Ph2, when I Immobilizer light goes to a solid red when the key is turned but will not go out, cranks for a few seconds but sometimes not at all.
The crank only rode 3 4 times, and only If I put the key and turn it straight away, I I pur the key turn it into position 2 for a few seconds, the engine doesn't crank, no signal from start engine.

Any one can help me? Immobilizer? Key? or wire Loom?

Thanks

 

[Crayola]

Old thread revive

Got a solid red light when trying to start. Cranks a few times and then stops

This morning I put the heater on full the heater stopped working and since then I've been messing with fuses and relays and it's now not starting. Any help appreciated

 

[Crayola]

Nevermind

White bay plug was being a c**t

 

[Iain C]

Nevermind

White bay plug was being a c**t

What one mate. Im having the same issue. Did you unplug it and clean it up?

 

[Crayola]

What one mate. Im having the same issue. Did you unplug it and clean it up?

Yes mate

I cleaned it up, compressed air into it and then blebbed it with some dielectric grease to keep the moisture off it